application of anti-sways.., Install where none had been Options

[914werke]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon13.gif) Ok, need some help. I have the original frt. & rear bars, hardware & bushings. Am planning to install on my street 73 2.0.
My front A arms already have the U tabs so Im good there. My question is, while the general area where the thru the body bar is obvious, How do you locate ..exactly.. the holes for the collar & how big should the center hole be?
In otherwords is there a specific orientation of the 3 mount bolts to clear anything on the back side? Any BTDT?
On the rear I assume you just attach the links & swing the bar up to the point it contacts the trunk floor? Bolt or weld the tabs of the mounts to the floor & your good? Or is ther a measurement to mount those that will once applied preload the bar?
Am I making sense? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon14.gif)

Rich

[Brad Roberts]

Rich,

Take the 3 bolt triangle and place a two side up into the recess. Eyeball center it and use a paint marker to "dab" the 3 holes. There was no science on how they mounted them. You will need to cut a hole below the tank in the little rail that runs under the ends of the tank so you can access the 3rd nut. I normally build a small triangle and weld 3 nuts to it. This works as a backing plate.

B

[914werke]

Thanks Brad I have those plates already. I thought that if perhaps they werent level or square from side to side Id get stiction or binding?
Advice on the rear mounting? Do I mount that with wheels in the air or down?
As an aside Geoff stopped by today and picked up
a front bumper/cap & driving lights from me, While perusing my stash he mentioned you might be interested in a un-cracked blk. dash top? Let me know.

Rich

[Brad Roberts]

Sold.

Send me the dash:

SSI C/O Brad Roberts
20 Pamaron Way
Novato, Ca. 94949

When you set the triangle into the recess... it will self locate. Just make sure you have it flat. Repeat on the other side. They dont give you enough room to screw it up. Dont worry about stiction... your probably still running the OE rubber mounts. Let me know if you want adjustable drop links for your stock bar (75$ shipped) all new parts with left and right hand threaded heim joints.

B

[Brad Roberts]

The pic below shows you where you will have to cut for the bar. You can also see where the bolts are in relation to the recess.

B

[914werke]

I see. So the hole has to be just large enough for the bar to pass though. Will a hole saw work on the rail ? And yes I am running the OE mounts, but they'r new! Should I be using a different bushing? The entire setup came off my now departed 74 SE creamsicle, (burnt to the ground (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) )
In fact Geoff got the orange bumper!
Thanks. I have to figure out packing for the cap.

[Brad Roberts]

The arrow was to point out where on that flat spot you need to make a access hole. This car had a factory bar so... I didnt need to cut a access hole in that little frame rail area.

I use a cutoff wheel and make a square hole below the the hole for the bar. I recommend drilling all 4 holes (3 bolt holes and one hole for the bar) before you cut the access hole for the 3rd lower bolt/nut combo. Use a hole saw to cut the main bar hole... make it big so in case you want a bigger bar later.. you dont have to redo it.

B

[Ira Ramin]

Rich,
Click on the link for some instructions that should help.

Ira

Instructions

[914werke]

Thanks Ira (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif) The rear look like a harder install than the front! Hey Geoff more welding buddy! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Rich

[Bleyseng]

I just helped a friend install a front bar (19mm) so pull the damn gas tank as its waay easier to do. If the car doesn't have the backing plates make some so the sway doesn't tear out going into turn one at Pacific Raceways. The back is pretty easy other than I think its better to weld the brackets in than bolt them in. If you need some help, I can try to swing out there.
Geoff