Water/air intercooler heat exchanger placement ideas?, front or rear? for my subie ej20 turbo conversion |
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Water/air intercooler heat exchanger placement ideas?, front or rear? for my subie ej20 turbo conversion |
budman5201 |
Apr 28 2009, 11:34 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 595 Joined: 1-April 07 From: tempe, az Member No.: 7,635 |
okay guys...nearing the finish of my 914 subie AGAIN (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) This time its the ej20 turbo and i am using stock subaru water intercooler with separate heat exchanger for the intercooler.
Any knowledge to how hot this heat exchanger will get since a street car doesnt use boost much except for freeway on ramps, green lights, on my way to starbucks....okay well maybe a little. But i heard that cruising at a constant speed doesnt create hot intake temps..... Car already has renegade radiator, condensor for A/C (yep i am in az) same size as radiator...... I am debating putting heat exchanger in front of all of that in the front of both radiator and condensor, or would another place be good? Attached image(s) |
roadster fan |
Apr 29 2009, 02:23 AM
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#2
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Project Frankenstein !!!!!!!! Group: Members Posts: 1,009 Joined: 24-November 05 From: Aptos, CA Member No.: 5,184 Region Association: Northern California |
Another place would be ideal, but on a 914 the areas are limited. No personal experience with the renegade setup, but I think you will be alright with the exchanger in front of the rad and condensor. How big is the exchanger you need to mount in the front?
Jim |
lotus_65 |
Apr 29 2009, 05:35 AM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,608 Joined: 21-March 05 From: minneapolis, mn Member No.: 3,795 Region Association: Northstar Region |
the front seems like a long way to pipe air to me.
Chappy's setup is pretty trick, (here), I wonder why you couldn't adapt a similar idea somehow. I realize your turbo isn't in the way back, but I think you could look at the trunk/bulkhead area couldn't you? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) |
charliew |
Apr 29 2009, 09:58 AM
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#4
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,363 Joined: 31-July 07 From: Crawford, TX. Member No.: 7,958 |
He is talking about the old tt water to air suby ic. The problem is as my son the engineer explains it is the tt motor only made about 1 bar (14.7 psi). As long as you are happy with that it will be ok. My son's sti has a fmic, not a waic. We used a thermocouple wire in the throttle body connection and at the output side of the turbo. He has a 30r and at the time was only using 18 psi. In 3 rd and 4th the turbo made 340 df, at the throttlebody it was 106df. That was a 95d evening outside. I also have a tt waic and haven't decided what to use yet. I think it will work. When you get off boost the incoming air also cools the ic back down. The heat soak from the engine compartment is the question.
You can actually drive a turbo suby without getting on boost but it's no fun. look online for custom awic's they are not expensive if you want a better one. I think they even show sizing on their sites. He found me one and if I can find it I will post it. This is what he sent me: http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.ph...3cd613f392270fe 279.00 for the small one for 350hp and 299.00 for 600hp seems like a steal for a complete kit. ok off the rs liberty club site: 2.2 at .85 ve pressure ratio 2.0 (14.7) at 7k is about 464 cfm. It says 2.2 but then says 2.0 so?? 300hp about, that might be a vf39 (stock 04 sti and a 2.5 at 17 psi) actually that site says with a 2.5 it takes 526 cfm to make 14.7 at 7k. Power conversion: 1hp = 1.45 cfm, 1 cfm approx = 0.0745 lb. of air/min, 0.108 lb/min approx = 1hp 800 cfm at about 24-26 psi is about 400-425 hp at the wheels on awd. 500+ at the crank Thats with a 30r turbo which is pretty big and needs a 2.5 with acvs and bigger cams to prevent excessive lag. |
charliew |
Apr 29 2009, 10:38 AM
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#5
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,363 Joined: 31-July 07 From: Crawford, TX. Member No.: 7,958 |
Bump as I have added a lot of stuff above.
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paroxysm |
Apr 29 2009, 10:53 PM
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#6
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Member Group: Members Posts: 80 Joined: 4-April 04 From: chilliwack bc canada Member No.: 1,888 |
this is how I'm going to handle mine
(IMG:http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m257/pparoxysm/sale253.jpg) (IMG:http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m257/pparoxysm/sale244.jpg) |
budman5201 |
Apr 30 2009, 09:08 PM
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#7
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 595 Joined: 1-April 07 From: tempe, az Member No.: 7,635 |
this is how I'm going to handle mine (IMG:http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m257/pparoxysm/sale253.jpg) (IMG:http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m257/pparoxysm/sale244.jpg) that does look cool, what vents are you using and what will the final look be? I was thinking about that too through the sides(tons of room there), but i was a little hesitant because i didnt want it to look cheeszy. I have a stock narrowbody (no flairs) if you can post pics of the vent covers that you are going to use that would help out.... thanks |
charliew |
Apr 30 2009, 09:46 PM
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#8
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,363 Joined: 31-July 07 From: Crawford, TX. Member No.: 7,958 |
I have steel flairs and was thinking about something sorta like that but for looks a little more blended into the flair although that is really farther back than it needs to be to go into the engine compartment. I have scoups for the air intake on my 88 fiero with the strakes in them. I could do something similiar but it needs to be in steel.
I also have several type 3 rear quarters that have the long air vents in them that I might be able to use instead. But really a scoup is what is needed to force the air in as the engine lid at speed might be forcing air out the sides. I also like those wheels they look like 8's but maybe 9's? |
Wes V |
May 1 2009, 05:47 AM
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#9
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Member Group: Members Posts: 482 Joined: 11-October 07 From: Los angeles Member No.: 8,211 |
budman;
I'd sure like to see a photo of the components of what you are planning on doing!! I went to the web site that was linked to, and there is no reference to a resevoir (tank) for the system. For Honda guys that are running a Jackson Racing Supercharger, there is a company that cuts apart the intake manifold and inserts Laminova water to air cores, then welds it back together. LHT performance Here is the link to Laminova; Laminova web site Now why I'm interested in seeing what you are using is that the LHT performance set-up uses a resevoir (which could be put where the -6 oil tank goes). This functions as a thermal mass. The system radiator can be smaller due to not having to handle heat spikes. Of course, this may already be included in what you are doing. Wes |
budman5201 |
May 1 2009, 10:21 PM
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#10
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 595 Joined: 1-April 07 From: tempe, az Member No.: 7,635 |
budman; I'd sure like to see a photo of the components of what you are planning on doing!! I went to the web site that was linked to, and there is no reference to a resevoir (tank) for the system. For Honda guys that are running a Jackson Racing Supercharger, there is a company that cuts apart the intake manifold and inserts Laminova water to air cores, then welds it back together. LHT performance Here is the link to Laminova; Laminova web site Now why I'm interested in seeing what you are using is that the LHT performance set-up uses a resevoir (which could be put where the -6 oil tank goes). This functions as a thermal mass. The system radiator can be smaller due to not having to handle heat spikes. Of course, this may already be included in what you are doing. Wes So far i am probably going with my original idea of a water intercooler (stock subaru design used in previous models before air to air) and routing the separate nice size heat exchanger in front of the a/c condensor which is in front of the radiator. I am using a HUGE custom hole in the front bumper that is actually from the rubber top of the bumper all the way to the bottom of where the bottom lip of the LE valance usually goes. (theoretically LE AIR dam split in half and bolting to each side of the huge radiator intake sheet metal.) The bottom of the sheet metal in between the a-arm attachments will also be lowered so that effectively the huge front opening will RAM the air into the heat exchanger then condensor then radiator. The heat exchanger will not get hot unless i am stomping on it and creating boost. Under normal cruising at a constant speed the only extra heat will be from the condensor for the a/c I will post pics once the custom welding is done in the front with all bracing etc. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) |
paroxysm |
May 2 2009, 12:52 PM
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#11
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Member Group: Members Posts: 80 Joined: 4-April 04 From: chilliwack bc canada Member No.: 1,888 |
heres a real old mock up pic for now, yes the wheels are 9s in the back
(IMG:http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m257/pparoxysm/n628350769_1398620_7398.jpg) |
charliew |
May 3 2009, 08:44 AM
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#12
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,363 Joined: 31-July 07 From: Crawford, TX. Member No.: 7,958 |
Depending on the hp the radiator needs to cool, all the stuff in front of the radiator is really a restriction to the radiator. Stock bodied subies only have half the rad covered by the aaic and when they get more hp they usually go to a custom thicker rad.
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paroxysm |
May 11 2009, 10:19 PM
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#13
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Member Group: Members Posts: 80 Joined: 4-April 04 From: chilliwack bc canada Member No.: 1,888 |
Was very busy with work, finally got a chance to take some shots of my butchery
(IMG:http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m257/pparoxysm/sale359.jpg) (IMG:http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m257/pparoxysm/sale358.jpg) an old pic (IMG:http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m257/pparoxysm/fitiing.jpg) |
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