How the heck do you change the belts?!, Can't figure out how to remove the air pump bracket?? Options

[dcheek]

I just replaced the alternator in my 1976 914. Actually, I had the original one rebuilt. I thought it would be a good time to replace the belts. As you know a '76 has the air pump, so there are 2 belts, one for the alternator and one for the pump. I got the pump belt off by loosening the pump tensioning bolts- no big deal. But I can't figure out how to get the alternator belt off. It is obstructed by the T shaped bracket that holds the pump on the cooling housing. From what I could see (with a mirror) there are three bolts on the bracket, one at the top, and one each, left and right. After loosening these the bracket wouldn't budge. The only thing left is the 3 bolts that attach the drive shaft from the cooling fan to the pulley that drives the belt to the pump. I didn't attempt to remove them because they are deeply recessed and difficult to access. The question is do I have to remove this to get the belt off?

I checked the service manuals and there are no pictures or procedures for the '75 or '76 model years with the air pump.

Consequently, I left the old belts on. I really would like to change them at a later date since they've been on since day one!

Dave

[Cap'n Krusty]

You could slip the belt in with the 3 legs removed, but I wouldn't because the rubber hub might break, and they drive units are NLA. Bite the bullet and remove those 3 bolts in the hub, which is the real way. Actually, if you loosen them a 1/4 inch, you might be able to slip the belt in. I hope you used a good quality rebuilder. The Cap'n

[dcheek]

You could slip the belt in with the 3 legs removed, but I wouldn't because the rubber hub might break, and they drive units are NLA. Bite the bullet and remove those 3 bolts in the hub, which is the real way. Actually, if you loosen them a 1/4 inch, you might be able to slip the belt in. I hope you used a good quality rebuilder. The Cap'n

Used the best rebuilder in the business. Oldtimer. Didn't do the flashy repaint. Just dismantled everything, tested and replaced only what needed to be replaced. Only time will tell but, I would put my money on this guy's experience.

As far as the belt replacement. I'm going to need a clutch real soon. Not that it's worn due to high mileage but, I think the rear main seal is leaking, causing the clutch to slip under acceleration on a steep hill. I'll change the belts when the engine is out of the car.

Cap'n thank for the heads up. I knew that hub had to come off, or at the very least be loosened to get the belt off. I think it would be best to deal with it with the engine out so as not to destroy the NLA part.

Dave

[dcheek]

You could slip the belt in with the 3 legs removed, but I wouldn't because the rubber hub might break, and they drive units are NLA. Bite the bullet and remove those 3 bolts in the hub, which is the real way. Actually, if you loosen them a 1/4 inch, you might be able to slip the belt in. I hope you used a good quality rebuilder. The Cap'n

Used the best rebuilder in the business. Oldtimer. Didn't do the flashy repaint. Just dismantled everything, tested and replaced only what needed to be replaced. Only time will tell but, I would put my money on this guy's experience.

As far as the belt replacement. I'm going to need a clutch real soon. Not that it's worn due to high mileage but, I think the rear main seal is leaking, causing the clutch to slip under acceleration on a steep hill. I'll change the belts when the engine is out of the car.

Cap'n thank for the heads up. I knew that hub had to come off, or at the very least be loosened to get the belt off. I think it would be best to deal with it with the engine out so as not to destroy the NLA part.

Dave