Rust repair options?, Long rust on a 76... |
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Rust repair options?, Long rust on a 76... |
orcadigital |
May 22 2009, 10:45 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 59 Joined: 1-November 05 From: Elizabeth, CO Member No.: 5,043 |
So after grinding off some bolts and prying off the old rocker, i found some 914 goodness. Went at it with a wire wheel for a bit and got everything lose off. Does this look like a total long replacement or maybe just cut out the offending metal and weld in some patches? I don't use the jack posts, so not as worried about that, but chassis structure does worry me a bit.
Thanks! |
GeorgeRud |
May 22 2009, 10:55 PM
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#2
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,725 Joined: 27-July 05 From: Chicagoland Member No.: 4,482 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
I'd do the entire long, the rust always seems to start up just next to the area you repaired.
Brad Mayeur @ 914Ltd has a kit that you can use over the original one if you don't want to cut it all out. |
SirAndy |
May 22 2009, 11:04 PM
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#3
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,634 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
The whole outer section is available as a replacement.
If you're handy with a welder, that's the way to go ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) Andy |
rjames |
May 23 2009, 12:16 AM
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#4
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I'm made of metal Group: Members Posts: 3,928 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Hard to tell just how bad it is from the photos, as they are kind of dark. Grind all the visibile rust / old paint off the longs. Brace the car so it doesn't sag (do a search on how to do this if necessary) and then start cutting away the bad and replace it with new. You may not need to do the entire long with any luck. Hopefully you know how to weld, or at least are willing to learn.
Also check the suspension ears for rust / cracks too. This would be a good time to really check the entire car out thuroughly for rust to see exactly how much work you've got ahead of you. Good luck! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
dr914@autoatlanta.com |
May 23 2009, 09:00 AM
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#5
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,850 Joined: 3-January 07 From: atlanta georgia Member No.: 7,418 Region Association: None |
That is a very easy one. All you need is a left inner rocker. If the damage is not all of the way to the front, cut the new piece and weld in the replacement section for the bad area. You are very spoiled to have a 914 with this little rust in it!!!!! We of course make all of the rust repair panels so you can repair your car properly without covering up damage.
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charliew |
May 23 2009, 11:05 AM
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#6
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,363 Joined: 31-July 07 From: Crawford, TX. Member No.: 7,958 |
I would cut out whats obvious and get a light and mirror and look inside the long both ways and then decide on how much to cut out. I'll bet the whole bottom is almost through for at least half the rear long. That must have started at the jack point although I don't see any holes at the jack point. There may be a hole at the very front inside the wheelwell down in front of the long and when it goes in water it puts the water in the complete bottom of the long. If thats the case the whole bottom will be rusty. Also check the inner side around the emergency brake handle indentation for cracks as thats the only support left. Thats wierd that the side is gone and the bottom doesn't seem to be. You need to really poke all along the bottom all the way to the front. That metal is not very thick so any pitting and it's almost through. You haven't got it cleaned up enough to really tell whats what yet.
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Mikey914 |
May 23 2009, 12:43 PM
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#7
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The rubber man Group: Members Posts: 12,660 Joined: 27-December 04 From: Hillsboro, OR Member No.: 3,348 Region Association: None |
Worth replacing the entire panel. After you check it out, I'ld buy the new panel and weld it in. It'l be as strong as factory and you can get at the rust in the inner ( and I 'll bet a beer, there's at least surface rust).
Think of it this way, your surgeon is going in to cut out cancer, would you tell him "I thing I'll save a few buck doc, just cut out the big pieces". With the values of these cars on the rise again, I proper repair will only add to the value of the car. And, this is an easy one. |
veltror |
May 23 2009, 02:55 PM
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#8
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 928 Joined: 27-April 08 From: Potters Bar Herts UK Member No.: 8,978 Region Association: None |
Take a look at my thread and see how bad it got...
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orcadigital |
May 23 2009, 09:57 PM
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#9
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Member Group: Members Posts: 59 Joined: 1-November 05 From: Elizabeth, CO Member No.: 5,043 |
Actually going through with a pick, it has not extended below at all, and does not go forward much from what you see. There was a buildup of dirt/mud/small animals that had caught behind the rocker, and was held in place pretty much where you see it, between the triangle support piece and the jack point. The suspension consoles, hell hole, and other side are all clean. It actually has less rust then my race car.
My dad purchased a welder about a month ago, but i am wary of learning on something like this, but i do have access to several accomplished welders and am not too worried about that. I just didn't know if i should try to cut just this section out of a parts car or just do the entire piece. Other then about 10 min with a wire wheel and double that with a pick and screw drivers, thats about all we discovered in the area. Maybe i should get some pictures of the chassis we are working on that in its entirety, has 1 quarter sized rust spot in the middle of the firewall (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Thanks for all the help, will post pictures as it comes along, spent the last few months doing body work, paint, misc suspension, exhaust, and the 2 million other 914 projects that arise. Not bad for a $950 parts car (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
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