Engine test stand |
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Engine test stand |
SLKWrx |
Jun 2 2009, 08:38 AM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 317 Joined: 28-September 04 From: Woolwich, NJ Member No.: 2,845 Region Association: North East States |
Hey All,
So I've made some big strides in completing my first engine build. But between using a megasquirt and all the other changes, I'd like to build up an engine test stand, Anyone have any notes or experience doing this? Thanks, -- Steve |
McMark |
Jun 2 2009, 12:33 PM
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#2
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
The starter mount it the 'biggest' issue. You can build something that holds both the transmission and the engine together. That way you don't have to deal with the starter.
The one I use is a converted Harbor Freight generic stand, but I cut the bellhousing off a transmission to mount the starter. You'll need -battery -fuel pump -fuel filter -light or gauge for oil pressure -switch for ignition power and fuel pump power -heavy duty push button (momentary on) for the starter -battery cables That's all I can think of off the top of my head. |
VaccaRabite |
Jun 2 2009, 01:58 PM
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#3
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En Garde! Group: Admin Posts: 13,441 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Dallastown, PA Member No.: 1,435 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
I made a stand out of wood that allows the engine, tranny, exhaust, starter, etc all to be hooked up as one unit.
This is the best picture I have of it... (IMG:http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3012/2521540262_df709aa6a4.jpg) The toggle switch powered the ignition, fuel pump, and tach. the push button was only for the starter. that way, I could turn the engine over w/o spark for compression testing, building oil pressure, etc. Cost to build was ~$30 It was designed so the whole stand could be rolled under the 914 for easy re-installation. You can see, at the back of the stand, it is a hollow center so a standard floor jack can be rolled in to lift the engine (using a CFR lifting plate). Zach |
zymurgist |
Jun 3 2009, 06:49 AM
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#4
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"Ace" Mechanic Group: Members Posts: 7,411 Joined: 9-June 05 From: Hagerstown, MD Member No.: 4,238 Region Association: None |
Your fuel injection seems to be missing, Zach. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
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VaccaRabite |
Jun 3 2009, 09:36 AM
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#5
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En Garde! Group: Admin Posts: 13,441 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Dallastown, PA Member No.: 1,435 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Adding provision for FI would not be that hard. My point was that it was handy to have a test stand that could be wheeled around with the engine, trans, ex, etc all together and ready to go into the car as soon as the tuning was done - and that one could be made cheaply.
Where is Trekkor. I need the Home Depot stamp of approval... Zach |
Spoke |
Jun 3 2009, 10:51 AM
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#6
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Jerry Group: Members Posts: 6,978 Joined: 29-October 04 From: Allentown, PA Member No.: 3,031 Region Association: None |
I'm using a Harbor Freight furniture dolly to hold the engine+tranny.
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yeahmag |
Jun 3 2009, 11:32 AM
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#7
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,421 Joined: 18-April 05 From: Pasadena, CA Member No.: 3,946 Region Association: Southern California |
Short section of 4x4 lag bolted through the engine bar. The tranny can rest on a furniture dolly. Almost free...
Run 12V to a toggle switch that powers up both the pump and brain. Straight 12V to a trailer light for the oil pressure "idiot light". Jumper cables on the tranny -> battery for ground - same idea for +12V. Use a cheap, Harbor Freight starter switch to jump the relay on the starter. I made a "gas tank" out of a jug and a barbed hose fitting that was threaded for compression fittings on one end. I stacked a washer on the back and used lots of sealant for safe keeping... I even drilled the cap and put a small piece of vacuum line through it to limit my exposure if it got kicked over. |
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