Starts now, Idle when hot wants to die Options

[p914]

It seems more that it wants to die when stopped in an uphill position. I been trying to tweek it with adjusting the computer and the idle screw After some adjustment it doesn't die out completely now but is still close to it. I just put in a 200 ohm resistor to the head temp sensor and that seems to help some.
Any suggestions?

My start problem was the electrical switch in the column.

[ThinAir]

If it wants to die after warming up, make sure your valves are properly adjusted. This is often a sign of valves that are too tight when cold. When they warm up they basically don't close so it won't stay running.

[p914]

So a valve adjustment eh? I'll probably have to have my mechanic do that for me. I can do some things but I'm not sure about a valve adjustment. Yeah after I drive it around and it is warmed up and I come to a stop and idle at a red light or stop sign it wants to die. As I said also, it seems it wants to die out more when the front is pointed uphill for some reason. Why would that be?

[bob174]

You can do a valve adjustment yourself. It's not a big deal from a complexity standpoint. The pain in the arse about it is that it's tight access up in there. All you need for tools are a screwdriver, 13mm wrench and a .006 and .008 feeler gauge. Back the car onto ramps and then jack the passenger side back tire just off the ramp so that you can turn it and you're set to do the work. If your valve cover gaskets are old, you may want to replace them at the same time. There's a pretty good article on the Pelican board about how to do it.

[ThinAir]

Besides what bob74 added, the critical thing is to do the valve adjustment with the engine COLD - as in park it the night before and don't even attempt to start it before you adjust the valves.

Now I know there is at least one person in this forum who has said he does his valves when they are warmed up, and perhaps it works for him, but the logic of doing it cold goes like this: If you warm the engine up things warm up at different rates so it is very difficult to be sure that everything is at the same temperature. Besides that you run the danger of burning yourself. If you do it cold, then you know everything is the same temperature and you don't need to worry about burns. It's always worked well for me.

[p914]

Thanks for the good info here. I may give a try and do it myself after taking a closer look to. I just hate to have to do the tow of shame to my mechanic if I screw it up <_< Any other suggestions and tips are welcome.

[Dave_Darling]

Suggestion #1--have an experienced friend help you out!! It's not easy to get the "feel" right on the valve clearance. You can read all the descriptions you like, but it never really tells you how it feels when the feeler gauge is in the gap correctly. So have a friend who knows how to adjust valves come over and set one for you. You can use that to tell you how it's supposed to feel, and you can then do the rest. And he can double-check you on one or two of them.

It'll only cost ya a couple of beers, most likely!

--DD

[p914]

I may just hang with my mechanic and watch him. He's pretty cool about stuff like that. I think it will run about $100 for the adjustment as it calls for 1.3 hours labor. Once I see what he does I may feel more inclined to try it myself next time. Thanks again for the tips and suggestions. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

[anthony]

I hope 1.3 hours includes an oil change and other stuff. I can do it in 30 minutes, taking my time, and I'm not a pro.

[TheCabinetmaker]

Yep, 45 minutes includes jacking the car up and installing the jack stands. Got a lift? 1/2 hour tops and a smoke break included.

[dan10101]

Ok, I took what 3 hours doing mine, and I dont think I did it correct..

I hate doing valve adjustments, I did mine, and I doubt I got the feel

I kept asking dad "So if it goes in, then its at least that size.. right? Even if im almost forcing it in?"

I think I asked him that 4 times..

Gime that EJ20T engine..

AHHG
Andrew.. Not dan

[p914]

1.3 is what the book calls for on the labor time. He probably can do it quicker. I figure $100 max . He's pretty reliable and reasonable, I have been using him for 7-8 years.

[ThinAir]

I kept asking dad "So if it goes in, then its at least that size.. right? Even if im almost forcing it in?"

I've got a set of those folding feeler gauges. The way I adjust mine is to slide the feeler gauge by pushing it away from me. This way if it's too tight it will buckle because I've got too much resistance on the blade. To double check the adjustment, I use a .008 gauge. If it's right then the .006 will slide with slight resistance, but the .008 won't even go into the gap.

[anthony]

When I do the valves, mostly I'm just checking because only 3 or 4 of the 8 valves ever need any adjustment. I use the technique described on the Pelican site - you never have to get from out under the car until you're done.

[p914]

Runs great now. 3 of 4 were not closing. $100 and worth it. The spacing is crucial and he actually lifted the car for each cylinder and cranked it and set it with the rotor position. Thanks for all the input.. For this I think I prefer to let the mechanic do it. There are a few things I can do and there are some things I just don't fee; comfortable doing. Now I can play with setting the cpu and idle screw to lean it out or richen it up. I have the cpu actually set 1/2 way to run slightly lean. Now to fix the exhaust leak. Seems I lost a stud and bolt going into the manifold. I'm hoping it just needs replacing and isn't stripped out. I tightened it up at the end of the summer and it's been sitting all winter, so I lost it in the fall before the rains came.