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> Cooling "mister", ...oil cooler and heads
yeahmag
post Jun 23 2009, 04:08 PM
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I've been thinking about this for a long time and only found one partial thread on it. It seems to me that an "intercooler style" mister could be very beneficial on the track to help control oil and head temps.

While I had no head temp issues at Willow, my oil temps did rise to the point I pulled off. I was thinking a simple mister introducing water mist in to the fan or directly above the oil cooler could be a trick way to deal with temp spikes.

Anybody done this before?

-Aaron
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yeahmag
post Jun 23 2009, 04:46 PM
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Looks like a lot of fun could be had here:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#spray-nozzle-misters/=2g2ujo
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r_towle
post Jun 23 2009, 04:47 PM
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Use a few cold start injectors and a seperate pump...
Simple to try it.

RIch
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yeahmag
post Jun 23 2009, 04:52 PM
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Any idea what if anything other than tap water I'd want to use?
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BarberDave
post Jun 23 2009, 04:55 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

Neet idea; think about spraying alcohol, as it evaporates it gets a lot colder than

H20. Have you figured how much this all will way??? Dave (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif)
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yeahmag
post Jun 23 2009, 05:01 PM
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I'm just goofing around right now. The idea has been bugging me for a while, so long story short.

No.

:-)
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john rogers
post Jun 23 2009, 05:14 PM
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About the only way to cool the engine reliably is to go with a dry sump system abd use a large front mounted oil cooler. Anything else will achive negligable results. This is true of a 4 or 6 cylinder engined car especially when running continuous laps such as at Willow Springs, CA Speedway or Tecate MX when the temps get hot.
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r_towle
post Jun 23 2009, 05:18 PM
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tap water...wont hurt anything...might clog the injector if there is to many minerals, but that is easy to clean out with vinegar.

Rich
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Joe Bob
post Jun 23 2009, 05:19 PM
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Go with a bypass and another oil cooler or two. That's what I did on my Type I 2180 turbo motor. I actually got it TOO cool and pulled one cooler off.

BTW, it's a very nice SETRAB and it's just sitting on the shelf.....
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SLITS
post Jun 23 2009, 05:30 PM
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There was a thread here or maybe the "other site" (a long time ago) where someone already did this. Apparently a 5 gallon container of water didn't last a 30 minute session AFAIR.

5 gallons of water = 42 lbs extra weight in your car. What's your HP/Lb ratio? How many HP you giving up?
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yeahmag
post Jun 23 2009, 05:31 PM
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I have a Setrab and a spin on adapter waiting to go on once I can afford fittings and line for it (about $100 from Summit). This is more of a "why the hell not..." kinda thing. Or even in addition too the coolers.

Mostly I love to tinker and am curious.
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Joe Bob
post Jun 23 2009, 05:34 PM
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If you don't care about looks.....Your local Truck hydraulic shop will have what you need for 1/2 price without the bling bling....
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porschecb
post Jun 23 2009, 05:47 PM
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Just run dry ice through copper tubing it works great! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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ConeDodger
post Jun 23 2009, 05:58 PM
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A few years back water injection into the intake charge was the rage. I know on Datsun heads it leached minerals and caused pitting in the chambers. I am not sure of the alloy composition differences between the 914 heads and the Datsun heads but they are both aluminum.

I realize that the original poster was not intending to use this in the combustion chambers but some of you seem to be heading in that direction.

Dry ice "melts" by chemical reaction with air. How would it go through copper tubing Michael?
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Derek Seymour
post Jun 23 2009, 06:00 PM
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You could use co2, it's cheap, light, cold, and the flow would be controllable

(IMG:http://www.co2-canisters.com/contents/media/co2_cylinder2-5lbs.jpg)

Or use Dry Ice in a box and make a fogger.
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SLITS
post Jun 23 2009, 06:03 PM
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QUOTE(porschecb @ Jun 23 2009, 04:47 PM) *

Just run dry ice through copper tubing it works great! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


Back in the day of Production Racing ... a gentleman decided if cool fuel was good ... cold fuel would be great. He made a canister with a copper coil in it and filled it with dry ice. He rolled to the grid and when it was time to start for the race, the car wouldn't start. Seems that putting the can near the carbs where the Carbon Dioxide gasses off causes the A/F mixture to be off a bit as far as Oxygen content.

He was labeled "The Ice Man" and it stuck for many years. He never did try it again.
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Derek Seymour
post Jun 23 2009, 06:14 PM
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This is what's being used to cool intercoolers in the JDM drag race world. You could easily adapt this for use with an oil cooler.

(IMG:http://www.nipponpower.com/~nippon/prod_imgs/img-1034-1-large.jpg)
DEI CryO2 Tank and Installation Kit is the foundation to every CryO2 System. You must have this kit to utilize CryO2 components. The kit includes a 5 or 10 pound CO2 tank, cryogenic solenoid valve, all necessary fittings, 14 ft. stainless steel hose, full wide open switch, arming switch, and wiring kit. Only one kit is needed to operate all the CryO2 components.

(IMG:http://www.nipponpower.com/~nippon/prod_imgs/img-1035-1-large.jpg)
DEI CryO2 Cryogenic Intercooler Sprayer Bar mounts directly to the front of air-to-air intercoolers or aftercoolers and serves as a way to vent the liquid CO2 directly onto the cooling fins. This enhances the performance of the intercooler by more than 50% eliminating intercooler heat soak. This component must always be the last in the CryO2 system as it vents the liquid CO2 charge to the atmosphere. Can be used for nitrous systems as well.
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porschecb
post Jun 23 2009, 06:50 PM
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Equal spaced small vent holes.
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jmill
post Jun 23 2009, 07:49 PM
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Coil up some copper tubing inside an ice chest filled with dry ice and alcohol. It would work great until the ice melted. It might work too good and gel the oil. I used the alcohol and dry ice method quite a few times repairing tolerance fit airplane parts. Don't think I'd want to hit anything carrying 5 gallons of it in my trunk though.
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jhadler
post Jun 24 2009, 02:27 PM
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Apart from the misting being a pretty ineffective way to bring oil temps down, using anything other than clean water would be silly.

And while alcohol will evaporate faster, it also has a lower specific heat than water, and would pull away less temperature than the water. Not to mention the potentially explosive air/fuel mix you've now created with the evaporated alcohol.

'nuff said?

Put an actual oil cooler on the car, it'll work better than "misting". Yes, I've tried the water mister route too, it doesn't do much if anything over the long run. Cool something off after an autox run? Sure. Continuous use on track? Too much weight, too little gain.

-Josh2
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