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c12croft |
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 167 Joined: 24-December 04 From: Long Island, New York Member No.: 3,331 ![]() |
![]() Is there any welding or difficulties in fittment i may encounter? i'm also looking for re-chromable spares anyone may have at reasonable $, thanks |
ConeDodger |
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#2
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Apex killer! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 24,005 Joined: 31-December 04 From: Tahoe Area Member No.: 3,380 Region Association: Northern California ![]() ![]() |
Camp914 has the largest supply of early bumpers I know of. I am sure that High Performance House and Automobile Atlanta have as many if not more.
There is no welding. Pull off the old bumpers and shocks. Grind off or drill the spot welds with a spot weld bit to remove the retaining lip. Refinish as needed. Locate and drill holes to mount the new ones. Be sure you get dog bones with your bumpers. There is a shop in LA doing a rechroming deal. Have any bumpers you buy sent directly to them to save on shipping. |
Mikey914 |
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#3
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The rubber man ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 12,767 Joined: 27-December 04 From: Hillsboro, OR Member No.: 3,348 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
The only problem with backdating on the rear is the rubber bumper top. The span across the center allows the rubber to droop slightly. The fix is to weld on a tab like factory had to suport in the center, or to use one of the new rear bumper tops I'm working on as it has an internal stainless support across the 3 center studs. I don't have it out yet but in about 2 weeks I'll have pictures and will be taking orders.
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