engine oil leak Options

[Tman914]

OK replace flywheel with a new clutch assy: on 1974 2.0 914 install new fly wheel seal & that "O" as well with a new crush washer, lube up the seal & "O" ring to install use some tacky stuff around the out side of the seal only so it can stick to the engine housing .
Any way started it up and ran it for a haft hour on the stands , I let it sit over night and saw some oil coming down from the fly wheel area, did I not do this right did I miss some thing (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)

[Cupomeat]

Ok, a couple of things to ask;
1. Did you check end play when you put on a new flywheel? This probably has nothing to do with the leak, just checking
2. Did you lube up your main seal with oil or something else before installing it? The CW is that anything but oil results in an early failed mainseal.

Otherwise, it appears that you got all the pieces right. I'd bite the bullet, get new flywheel bolts and take it apart again to see. Order a new mainseal while you are getting the FW bolts, as I've seen them with lip imperfections that would probably never seal.

Good luck.

[dangrouche]

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.ph...82858201fda9088
youve done nothin wrong; i am on my third seal, but use the orange/black one, always use a new O ring anytime flywheel is off. i thought my end play was off, but when i checked it was in specs. see the the above thread from shoptalk forums on the topic. my first two seals were pure orange in color and were pushed in to the same level as the case edge, but on this recent one i pushed it in below the surface @ 2mm. i have only test driven it 13 miles but no leaks so far.
the part number for the black orange seal is Elring of North America
repl. # 029 105 245 B*

[Tman914]

The seal is flush with the case should i push it in more if possible with the new one and its an orange seal. just like the one I install.

This suck

[914four]

The seal is flush with the case should i push it in more if possible with the new one and its an orange seal. just like the one I install.

This suck

This seems to be a common problem. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) I am having a shop replace my rear main and flywheel after only 4K miles.

[mtndawg]

I'm glad this is being discussed. I have a Victor Reinz seal that's about to go into my 1.7L. I plan to lube it with a tiny bit of oil, then tap it in. Do I want it flush with the case or pushed in a little further (that's what she said)?

[dangrouche]

i would try to reproduce what you had before you replaced the seal, if you saw it. hopefully you observed what it looked like before you pulled it out. if you can't decide, i vote that you press it in deeper into the case because i read on the shoptalk forum somewhere that the taper gets tighter as you move deeper in the recess. I am on my third seal. first one was flush with the edge of the case, but it leaked 800 miles into the break in of the motor. then a second one went in flush with the edge of the case and it leaked almost immediatley within 5 miles. the third one was a black and orange one and was inset into the case, BELOW the edge of the case. don't hammer the seal in so far that it crushes. i lubed the outer edge of the seal with motor oil and pressed it in with my thumbs. so far 50 miles and not a drip..... keep in mind i am using a black and orange seal, so if you have a seal about to be installed, go get the black and orange one. i will never use an orange again!