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> trunk bars back on the rollers?
broomhandle
post Jul 25 2009, 05:01 PM
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how does one get the trunk bars back onto the rollers so i can open the trunk without holding it!!!
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Heeltoe914
post Jul 25 2009, 05:08 PM
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You have to have a special bar that hooks on so it wont slip off and you knock out all your teeth. Yes it has happened. I will take a pic of mine and post it later today.
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broomhandle
post Jul 25 2009, 05:25 PM
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cool, can i just fabricate that bar out of something else? what a pain.
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jt914-6
post Jul 25 2009, 05:40 PM
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I have used a deep well socket just fitting around the bar with a long extension to remove and replace it on the rollers...just be careful....or you can make the tool.....
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broomhandle
post Jul 25 2009, 06:41 PM
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QUOTE(jt914-6 @ Jul 25 2009, 04:40 PM) *

I have used a deep well socket just fitting around the bar with a long extension to remove and replace it on the rollers...just be careful....or you can make the tool.....



i took off the trunk lid, but i think its a 2 person job. i was using a breaker bar, basically a big tube. but i couldnt get it back far enough. i was thinking of loosening the hinge and moving it up. but ive never done this before and you guys have. if i can see what that tool looks like and the steps to do it, that would be great.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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jt914-6
post Jul 25 2009, 06:53 PM
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Whatever you do don't loosen the mount that holds down the rods. You'd be is worse shape. Like I said, I've used a deep well socket just fitting around the bar with a extension on the socket just long enough to get under the non movable part of the engine lid on each side. One person can do it. The second person would only be needed to hold you beer while you do the work!!!!
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Rand
post Jul 25 2009, 06:58 PM
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I don't see why the breaker bar / tube you used to get it off wouldn't work. Sounds like you just need to put a little more muscle behind it.
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r_towle
post Jul 25 2009, 07:07 PM
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Use a deep 10mm socket on a 6 inch extention.
As you start, you cant get it all the way on...but as soon as you can, jamb it down so the whole socket is on there.

From there, you have full control and can easily move it where you want.

Rich
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Rand
post Jul 25 2009, 07:24 PM
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Hey, I think there's money to be made on a special tool! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
(IMG:http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/05/post-sovar.jpg)
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jt914-6
post Jul 25 2009, 07:27 PM
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QUOTE(Rand @ Jul 25 2009, 08:24 PM) *

Hey, I think there's money to be made on a special tool! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
(IMG:http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/05/post-sovar.jpg)


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) That is a special tool.....The extension is on the socket backwards!!!!!!
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jt914-6
post Jul 25 2009, 07:28 PM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ Jul 25 2009, 08:07 PM) *

Use a deep 10mm socket on a 6 inch extention.
As you start, you cant get it all the way on...but as soon as you can, jamb it down so the whole socket is on there.

From there, you have full control and can easily move it where you want.

Rich


I agree with Rich, that is the way to do it.
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broomhandle
post Jul 25 2009, 08:33 PM
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well, i used the bar from a floor jack, basically the same, but it felt like it didnt bend that far, i did take off the little holder that holds the bar down, and it didnt do anything. so i put it back, ill try again with the bar from the floor jack, it fit perfectly around the rod and its really long. maybe more muscle...... haha
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r_towle
post Jul 25 2009, 08:37 PM
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It wont fit.

Use the setup I said and it fits...you have to bend it all the way into the engine bay.
The 10mm socket holds the rod tight...a jack handle is 1 inch ID...not very secure.

The total bar needs to be about as long as a deep socket on a 6 inch extension...like I said.

If you tried your bar, and it did not work...then you ask the question and get a real answer (from someone who has done more than one)
Why would you not listen to the answer?

I am starting to understand the Capn more and more each day.

Rich
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jt914-6
post Jul 25 2009, 08:46 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
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broomhandle
post Jul 26 2009, 12:53 PM
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if you would be nice about it, i am learning. frick. the jack handle i was using is like maybe a 10mm, and the socket that fit was a 8 or 9mm. so i achieved the same thing. its like it will not reach that far. and the little vent blocks the reach of the arm bending back. i am restoring a parts car, so i have no idea what was done before.
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RiqueMar
post Jul 26 2009, 01:08 PM
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Save yourself the time/effort/frustration and get the trunk shox from Camp914
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broomhandle
post Jul 27 2009, 10:19 PM
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got it with a bicycle seat post and a open end wrench, and with no muscle at all.
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thtiming
post Jul 28 2009, 11:56 AM
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Ok, I'm not sure if I'll be able to explain this well enough for anyone to understand, and unfortunately I don't have any pictures handy, but I did build a tool that worked really well for putting the rear trunk lid springs back into place.

I started by pushing the spring rod back as far as I could and then put a block under it to hold it in place.

Then I took a 9" long L shaped bolt I got at the hardware store, ground a groove in the bent end of the bolt, and fabricated a big U shaped washer. I hooked the bent end of the bolt with the groove around the hinge joint, put the u shaped washer on the spring rod, put the nut on the bolt, and just tightened.

Basically, the nut drives the U washer down the bolt and draws the spring rod down towards the hinge until it's to a point where you can slip it onto the rollers.

I actually got the idea while using a set of spring compressors to replace the rear springs on my car. Same basic design but small enought to fit in the trunk area.
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