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> Acquired a 914-Need Your Help... She's Dead, Sitting for 20+years...Help me bring life with little $$
tabs914
post Jul 29 2009, 08:44 AM
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Update on 10/11/09: I ditched the old motor with a new one. So all the posts to page 4 I believe are for the old motor. I do have some issues that relate to the new motor on Page 5.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Thanks.


OK... first thing the fuel system and harness were removed because the previous owner wanted to convert it to a duel carb set-up. So I put the FI back in. I bought a fresh battery, oil, filters and replaced the all the fuel lines plus vacuum lines.

Now I want to try to start the darn thing and all I get is a "click" noise from the starter... so i jack the left side leaving the right side on the ground and put it in 5th gear. I turn the tire front the back a few times in either direction. I try to start it agian... "click". So I do the opposite side, but this time on the right i can't move the tire at all... well it will move 2-3", but thats it. Brakes are free btw. I have seen on the www that "Miricle Oil" down the plug holes will free up the pistons if they are siezed. I just dont understand that I can rotate one side and not the other. Thanks for your help... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

Update: Found Water in the Oil - Lots! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) What to do? Rebuild? Lube the hell out of it? More Mystery oil? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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tabs914
post Jul 31 2009, 05:26 PM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ Jul 31 2009, 04:08 PM) *

can you rotate the motor?

Here is my test.
If you put the car in neutral and reach in and grab the front fan, with your bare hands...no tools allowed.
If you can turn the motor by using the fan and you dont need a tool and you dont cut your fingers (its all by touch for me) then it will run.

How well it runs depends upon alot more...but if you dont have to pull so hard that you cut your fingers on the fan blades...and it turns a full stroke...it will start and run.

If the motor sat , it may have rusted the rings to the cylinders and that will answer your question....

Rich


I'll try this when I get home... I will have my wife post the results if all I have left are stubs.
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tabs914
post Aug 4 2009, 06:59 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) Engine finally broke loose today... now I can address everything else. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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tabs914
post Aug 7 2009, 12:53 AM
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I got it crainking (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) It was the grounds... I replaced it with all new connections. Now I think the fuel pump is out. I tested it right off the battery... no buzzzzz. I will check the classifieds and see if I can find someone that wants to part with one,
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McMark
post Aug 7 2009, 03:09 AM
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A little PB Blaster into the fuel pump can sometimes free them up. Pull the hoses off and douse it and let it sit a few days.
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VaccaRabite
post Aug 7 2009, 08:57 AM
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If the fuel pump was seized, would it be reliable once freed up? I would think that the rust/corrosion/whatever seized the pump would mark the pump as questionable.

Zach
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Katmanken
post Aug 7 2009, 09:17 AM
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Sometimes it's varnish left over form dehydrated gas that locks the pump. If the pump breaks free with the PB blaster, the additives in the gas will help dissove the varnish.

However, once it breaks free, don't run it dry or you will have a trashed pump.

I use the lawn mower gas can and recirculate gas from the can into the pump and dump it back into the can. Running it that way will help dissolve the crud. Then I pour the the gallon of gas in the can through a car gas filter to remove crap before I use it in the mower.
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tabs914
post Aug 7 2009, 10:04 AM
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Thanks for the advice... I will try it. It can't hurt at this point right.
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tabs914
post Aug 9 2009, 02:17 AM
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OK I got the pump working (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) Now Im not getting spark. Remember this baby has been sitting for 20 years with the fuel system removed. The harness I put on seems like it belongs on a newer 914. The car came with two and one was torn into, so I used the one that was in-tacked. There is a lead off the grounding portion of the harness that ends in a injector type plug. The 1971 1.7 D-jet I don't think has a cold start valve.

So maybe I should just start fresh with a FI I know works. Do you think 1.8 L-jet would work on a 1.7?
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cwpeden
post Aug 9 2009, 04:07 AM
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go to this site for FI diagnosis tips, its helped me out MANY times: http://members.rennlist.org/pbanders/

and this one has diagrams of the harnesses from different engines and which plugs do what: http://members.rennlist.com/914_wiring_harnesses/ (the links are about 2/3's the way down the page)

Thanks Jeff and Brad
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tabs914
post Aug 11 2009, 06:25 PM
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QUOTE(cwpeden @ Aug 9 2009, 03:07 AM) *

go to this site for FI diagnosis tips, its helped me out MANY times: http://members.rennlist.org/pbanders/

and this one has diagrams of the harnesses from different engines and which plugs do what: http://members.rennlist.com/914_wiring_harnesses/ (the links are about 2/3's the way down the page)

Thanks Jeff and Brad


Thanks.. that was very helpful... I think the ignition (key/column) isn't working. The relay under the dash isn't clicking like my '75 does. I think it's just turning the starter and not activating the coil. Im not getting any juice there. Sorry, i'm not a mechanic so you might catch me saying stuff like "thingy-ma-bob" and what-cha-ma-call-it" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) I most likly messed it up. I was trying to get the door and the ignition to match (key wise) and i think I pulled the cylinder too far and pulled and damaged that thin laminated copper strip? My Bad... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) So I need a cheap fix... any ideas?
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McMark
post Aug 11 2009, 09:02 PM
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I don't understand what the newest problem is. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
Does the starter turn?
Does the fuel pump turn on for a couple seconds when you turn the key?
Using your multimeter, can you measure 12v at the coil + side when the key is on?
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post Aug 11 2009, 09:25 PM
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QUOTE(McMark @ Aug 11 2009, 08:02 PM) *

I don't understand what the newest problem is. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
Does the starter turn?
Does the fuel pump turn on for a couple seconds when you turn the key?
Using your multimeter, can you measure 12v at the coil + side when the key is on?


The starter will crank, but no power at the coil... I have a feeling there are going to be allot of new problems. I just want to see if I can get fuel and spark at this point. I seem to be getting injector pulse from the brain, and I believe from all of the routing diagrams I have mustered-up on the internet and all of your guys help I think I have all the plumbing and electrical hooked up correctly. My issue right now is just my stupidity pulling that ignition out too far...
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r_towle
post Aug 11 2009, 09:26 PM
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Post a close up pic of the coil wiring.

Rich
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tabs914
post Aug 11 2009, 09:38 PM
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Here are some pics of the car... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


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post Aug 11 2009, 10:06 PM
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some more...


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post Aug 11 2009, 10:11 PM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ Aug 11 2009, 08:26 PM) *

Post a close up pic of the coil wiring.

Rich


I will do that in the morning... the ignition harness was just cut out of the car from the previous owner without a care thinking he was going to convert it to carbs. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) I had to add length to it so that they would reach.
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post Aug 12 2009, 12:01 AM
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Tracing backwards from the coil, with the key on:

Unplug the rearmost connector and check for power at pin 7 on the relay board.
Unplug the forward connector and check for power at pin 8 in the connector.
Check for power at fuse 9.
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tabs914
post Aug 12 2009, 09:21 PM
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well it appears I don't have pin 8 or 9 on the ignition harness...does this look correct?


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tabs914
post Aug 15 2009, 10:25 AM
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Here are the volt readings with the ignition on. Both fuses on the relay board show 12.7

The ign. harness was cut. I had to add length... the wires shown are not the correct color so I labled the photos. Please let me know if this looks right.

I am not getting spark from the coil.

Thanks...


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tabs914
post Aug 15 2009, 11:15 AM
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QUOTE(McMark @ Aug 11 2009, 11:01 PM) *

Tracing backwards from the coil, with the key on:

Unplug the rearmost connector and check for power at pin 7 on the relay board.
Unplug the forward connector and check for power at pin 8 in the connector.
Check for power at fuse 9.

I checked the foreword connector at pin 8 and it reads 12.1
The car came with new points that I put in, plus I put in a new coil, but the condeser is not. Do you think it could be the issue? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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