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> Advice needed for this Rust Repair, Passenger Front Fender
bobhasissues
post Aug 19 2009, 07:54 PM
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Has anyone dealt with this situation without replacing the entire fender?
The double paneled section rusted from the inside out, but the rust is isolated to the cowl area. The rest of the fender is rust and dent free in and out.

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dr914@autoatlanta.com
post Aug 19 2009, 09:10 PM
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you will have to cut out the top and fabricate a patch panel and weld it in restoring the cowl seal area. Our men do it all the time if you want to call for a step by step
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r_towle
post Aug 19 2009, 09:25 PM
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You are making a very good start by leaving the edge of the fender alone if you can.

The tricky part of this is getting a spoon in underneath to hammer the weld down flat..
Plan ahead and you can do it...
Its similar on a 356 and I have done a few.
Hammering the weld sucks...but you end up welding in the bottom piece last in some cases so you can get it done.

OR.
Replace the whole fender

RIch
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bobhasissues
post Aug 19 2009, 09:39 PM
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QUOTE(dr914@autoatlanta.com @ Aug 19 2009, 07:10 PM) *

you will have to cut out the top and fabricate a patch panel and weld it in restoring the cowl seal area. Our men do it all the time if you want to call for a step by step

George, Is the vertical portion of the fender (the outside edge of the cowl seal channel) welded to the edge of the cowl where they meet, or is my remaining metal being held in place by a panel adhesive or seam sealer? The vertical section looks well rusted as well and probably isn't weldable. I was afraid to cut away any more until I understand the anatomy of this area.
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bobhasissues
post Aug 19 2009, 10:01 PM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ Aug 19 2009, 07:25 PM) *

You are making a very good start by leaving the edge of the fender alone if you can.

The tricky part of this is getting a spoon in underneath to hammer the weld down flat..
Plan ahead and you can do it...
Its similar on a 356 and I have done a few.
Hammering the weld sucks...but you end up welding in the bottom piece last in some cases so you can get it done.

OR.
Replace the whole fender

RIch

The edge along the door looks good inside and out, and it appears I might be able to leave a little bit of a "lip" on the bottom side skin so I can lay the patch on the lip and it will be flush with the existing edge along the door. Like you said, I was thinking the best approach would be fix the outer skin first with the door in place as a guide. Then remove the door to fix the inner side. I'm struggling with the curvy vertical part that runs parallel to the cowl edge. I did not cut that out yet, but it's flaky and has pinholes. That section would surely blow right through if I tried to weld it (and I'm not sure that section is welded in or just being held by the existing seam sealer. Any ideas?
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bobhasissues
post Aug 21 2009, 10:34 AM
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bump,
still seeking additional advise
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FourBlades
post Aug 21 2009, 02:37 PM
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I did this same repair on both sides of my car. I have some pictures in my
1973 restoration thread somewhere around page 8 or 9 or so.

On my car, the lower layer of metal was good on one side and non existent
on the other. I did not replace the lower section on the side where it was
rusted out. My car is not really what you would call concours so I did not
worry about it.

Make sure you have your door mounted right so you can tell if your fender
line will match up. Also, weld it slowly and let it cool frequently or it will
warp big time.

Jeff Hail's thread has some great pictures of repairing the lower layer of
this area.

John
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