are our front shock inserts bad? Options

[dflesburg]

1970 stock suspension.

when we hit a bump with driver front wheel we get a loud metalic bang.

We have double checked everything and now we think it might be a bad strut cartridge.

Any experience is appreciated.

[Bartlett 914]

1970 stock suspension.

when we hit a bump with driver front wheel we get a loud metalic bang.

We have double checked everything and now we think it might be a bad strut cartridge.

Any experience is appreciated.

It could be that the nut that holds the cartridge in place is loose. I had one back out and when I rocked one corner up and down, a knock could be heard. All is good now.

[914Sixer]

Push down on the front fenders and see if the shocks rebound.

[dflesburg]

Passenger side does well.

Driver side rebounds then the car makes a strange shimmy movement.

[dflesburg]

anyone?

[Chris Hamilton]

I would get under the car and check everything out carefully. Any number of things could be wrong, and you don't want to find out the hard way.

I hit a bump on I5 with my car and bent the strut ( not the insert ), and cracked the A-Arm all the way through where the ball joint screws in. Ever since then I've been real careful about looking for cracks and loose items.

[VaccaRabite]

Passenger side does well.

Driver side rebounds then the car makes a strange shimmy movement.

Time for new front shocks.

While apart, make sure all your forward suspension nuts and bolts are tight. but its probably just a bad shock.


Zach

[dflesburg]

we checked everything over the weekend except the steering link under the gas tank, it was never apart when we did the car.

we checked every bolt with the torque wrench exept the top nut on the struts.

[914Sixer]

I am guessing broken shock. You did not say if you has gas or hydraulic shocks. With hydraulic you should see oil around the top under the cover cap. Gas blowing out the top would make that loud banging sound heard when it happened.

[Cap'n Krusty]

The very first reply you got was the best one so far, and you ignored it. Check the collar nut at the top of the strut tube. It's under the dust cover, and it's a VERY common source of such a noise.

The Cap'n

[dflesburg]

We checked that nut on top. We were only able to tighten it up about 1/2 a turn. Didn't get a chance to test drive again. That really wasnt enough of a turn to make a clunk though I dont think.

[ghuff]

Any shock from 1970 is not going to be right. A seal that old is going to be dry rotted.

I would replace them on general principle. My 75 has factory shocks up front and they are getting pitched.

The KYB's in back and 140lb springs are new though so it makes for an interesting ride.

[Bartlett 914]

We checked that nut on top. We were only able to tighten it up about 1/2 a turn. Didn't get a chance to test drive again. That really wasnt enough of a turn to make a clunk though I dont think.

"That Nut" Just to make sure, are you speaking of the 17mm nut on top as viewed from the front trunk or the collar nut that holds the cartridge in the strut? Did you do as the Capt'n suggested? The strut needs to come out from under the fender and the dust tube removed. The nut collar is then on top.

[jt914-6]

The Capt'n meant the large one UNDER the dust cover that holds the shock in the strut.

[dflesburg]

Thanks guys we will check that next... and of course, let you know what we find.

[jt914-6]

Put the front of the car on jackstands. Remove wheel/tire. Remove the nut from the top of the shock inside the trunk. Pull down on the dust cover and pull the shock stem down far enough to clear the fender well. Be careful not to bend the flexable brake line too much. Pull the dust cover off and check the threaded collar holding the shock in the strut. If you replace the shock, remove the collar and pull old one out and replace with the new one. You might want to use some blue loctite on the collar threads.

[Bartlett 914]

Put the front of the car on jackstands. Remove wheel/tire. Remove the nut from the top of the shock inside the trunk. Pull down on the dust cover and pull the shock stem down far enough to clear the fender well. Be careful not to bend the flexable brake line too much. Pull the dust cover off and check the threaded collar holding the shock in the strut. If you replace the shock, remove the collar and pull old one out and replace with the new one. You might want to use some blue loctite on the collar threads.

Good comments. I would only add that you should mark the position of the strut before removing it. This will allow you to reinstall it without messing up your alignment.

[jt914-6]

If you don't touch the 8mm allen head bolts inside the trunk that has to do with alighnment, that shouldn't be an issue.

[dflesburg]

We will try this this weekend.

I guess I have to do it to fully understand. My workshop manuals dont show parts like your talking about cant see a dust cover or another threaded collar in the pics.

[Cap'n Krusty]

The dust cover is the long steel can on the top of the strut, accessible after you remove the 22mm nut at the top and pull the shock downward. Remove that "can" and you'll see a rubber bump stop that resembles a stack of mini-donuts. Below that is a collar nut. A pipe largish wrench works well for that, used with a little care. If the shock shaft drops by itself, BTW, it's junk. Shocks (and shock inserts) are always replaced in pairs.

The Cap'n