 Hard starting when warm, 10-15 min/ stop 10 min/ hard to start |
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| Tom |
 Sep 10 2009, 01:45 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member  Group: Members Posts: 2,139 Joined: 21-August 05 From: Port Orchard, WA 98367 Member No.: 4,626 Region Association: None  |
76 2.0 d-jet. stock displacement, hydraulics, with smog removed and backdated exhaust to 74 2.0 SSI's with Triad.
Runs great. Pulls hard to redline in 4th with no missing. Idles 850-950 when warm. Starts up when cold just great and idles 700-800. After running 10-15 minutes to town and going in the store for 10-15 minutes, come back out and turns over but doesn't want to fire. Pedal to the floor and turn over for 30-40 seconds and it gets faster and faster and finally fires up. Then runs great. If it sets for an hour or more , no problem in firing right up. Searched here and the only thing I can see that may be causing this is the distributor plate spring(s)? The wiring is all fairly new, so I don't think that would be the problem. Checked all of the connections and they are clean and tight. If the dist plate is sticking in the full advance would that give me these symptoms and how would I fix that? Grease? Special type? Thanks for any help, Tom |
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| underthetire |
Sep 10 2009, 03:30 PM
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#2
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,062 Joined: 7-October 08 From: Brentwood Member No.: 9,623 Region Association: Northern California |
QUOTE(Tom @ Sep 10 2009, 12:45 PM)  76 2.0 d-jet. stock displacement, hydraulics, with smog removed and backdated exhaust to 74 2.0 SSI's with Triad. Runs great. Pulls hard to redline in 4th with no missing. Idles 850-950 when warm. Starts up when cold just great and idles 700-800. After running 10-15 minutes to town and going in the store for 10-15 minutes, come back out and turns over but doesn't want to fire. Pedal to the floor and turn over for 30-40 seconds and it gets faster and faster and finally fires up. Then runs great. If it sets for an hour or more , no problem in firing right up. Searched here and the only thing I can see that may be causing this is the distributor plate spring(s)? The wiring is all fairly new, so I don't think that would be the problem. Checked all of the connections and they are clean and tight. If the dist plate is sticking in the full advance would that give me these symptoms and how would I fix that? Grease? Special type? Thanks for any help, Tom I would think if it was full advance, the starter would hang up from the engine trying to fire the fuel before the piston was up. |
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| SLITS |
Sep 10 2009, 06:40 PM
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#3
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!" Group: Benefactors Posts: 13,602 Joined: 22-February 04 From: SoCal Mountains ... Member No.: 1,696 Region Association: None  |
Check valve in fuel pump not holding residual pressure after shutoff or pressure regulator is leaking too!
D-Jet, L-Jet, CIS, etc must hold pressure for a period of time after a hot shutdown to start readily. Usually 15 - 20 psi for about 20 mins depending upon system. |
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| Tom |
Sep 11 2009, 12:34 PM
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#4
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,139 Joined: 21-August 05 From: Port Orchard, WA 98367 Member No.: 4,626 Region Association: None |
Thanks Slits, I'll check that out.
Tom |
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| thompson-mfr |
Sep 11 2009, 12:46 PM
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#5
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Thompson, Ryan Group: Members Posts: 198 Joined: 30-September 08 From: Silverton, OR Member No.: 9,598 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
QUOTE(Tom @ Sep 10 2009, 12:45 PM) 76 2.0 d-jet. stock displacement, hydraulics, with smog removed and backdated exhaust to 74 2.0 SSI's with Triad. Runs great. Pulls hard to redline in 4th with no missing. Idles 850-950 when warm. Starts up when cold just great and idles 700-800. After running 10-15 minutes to town and going in the store for 10-15 minutes, come back out and turns over but doesn't want to fire. Pedal to the floor and turn over for 30-40 seconds and it gets faster and faster and finally fires up. Then runs great. If it sets for an hour or more , no problem in firing right up. Searched here and the only thing I can see that may be causing this is the distributor plate spring(s)? The wiring is all fairly new, so I don't think that would be the problem. Checked all of the connections and they are clean and tight. If the dist plate is sticking in the full advance would that give me these symptoms and how would I fix that? Grease? Special type? Thanks for any help, Tom why are you pressing on the gas pedal "padal to the floor?" when starting? I have a 74 djet and never press on the pedal for starts. Maybe I didn't understand you correctly. |
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| Tom |
Sep 11 2009, 01:59 PM
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#6
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,139 Joined: 21-August 05 From: Port Orchard, WA 98367 Member No.: 4,626 Region Association: None |
Read somewhere in another thread about that helping sometimes. First time I had the problem, it wouldn't fire, so I pressed the pedal to the floor and sure enough it fired after about 10-15 seconds of cranking. ??? Don't understand why, but it has worked for me several times.
Thought of something lese to try this weekend to narrow the problem down. I'll take a small can of carb cleaner with me. If the problem shows up, I'll spray a little in the intake mouth of the cleaner. If it starts, then it must be fuel related. Make sense to you guys? Tom |
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| underthetire |
Sep 11 2009, 02:03 PM
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#7
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,062 Joined: 7-October 08 From: Brentwood Member No.: 9,623 Region Association: Northern California |
Pedal to the floor is normaly "flood clear" mode. No injectors firing. At least thats what i've been told.
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| Tom |
Sep 11 2009, 02:08 PM
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#8
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,139 Joined: 21-August 05 From: Port Orchard, WA 98367 Member No.: 4,626 Region Association: None |
That did cross my mind also, but when it finally starts, no dark smoke like a flooded engine usually shows. And why would it flood? It has been sitting for 10-15 minutes not running? Leaking injectors?
Tom |
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| SLITS |
Sep 11 2009, 02:23 PM
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#9
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!" Group: Benefactors Posts: 13,602 Joined: 22-February 04 From: SoCal Mountains ... Member No.: 1,696 Region Association: None |
The fuel boils on the supply side (lines & pump) on a '69 - '74 due to where the pump is located (vapor lock). The pump will get really hot and it sucks at pumping air, bubbles or fumes.
In '75-'76 they moved the pump to the front under the tank to alleviate this problem. That is why I mentioned leaks (yours is a '76) ... I have fought the problem on a couple of vehicles. Once I could get it to hold pressure in the system after a hot shutdown, it would start right up hot. But then I'm just a barbaric backyard shadetree mechanic. |
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| Tom |
Feb 19 2010, 09:59 AM
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#10
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,139 Joined: 21-August 05 From: Port Orchard, WA 98367 Member No.: 4,626 Region Association: None |
OK, put the pressure gage on and it holds 25 psi for 30 min. Still has the " hard starting problem after warmed up and sitting for 10 min". Once it restarts after being "hard to start after warm", and you turn it off and try to restart it right away, it starts right back up. The hard to start only happens after sitting for a short time. If it sits for an hour or more there is no starting problem.
Any thing I should check next? The car runs so good otherwise, Im just stumped as to what could cause this, It isn't leaking injectors , I've pulled the plugs after cranking and not firing and they are not soaked. Thanks, Tom |
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| underthetire |
Feb 19 2010, 10:13 AM
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#11
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,062 Joined: 7-October 08 From: Brentwood Member No.: 9,623 Region Association: Northern California |
Change the coil. It might e getting heat soaked.
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| rick 918-S |
Feb 19 2010, 10:17 AM
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#12
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Hey nice rack! -Celette Group: Members Posts: 20,443 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region 
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Start with the basics. 90% of fuel related problems are electrical. I would start with checking the points and condensor. They could be fried. Definately the coil as suggested. could just be weak spark from a cracked cap. try it at night and look for leaking spark.
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| Jeffs9146 |
Feb 19 2010, 11:32 AM
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#13
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Ski Bum Group: Members Posts: 4,062 Joined: 10-January 03 From: Discovery Bay, Ca Member No.: 128 |
CHTS going bad or wire brittle/grounding? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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| Cap'n Krusty |
Feb 19 2010, 11:37 AM
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#14
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
News flash, guys. THEY DID THIS WHEN THEY WERE NEW!
The Cap'n |
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| Tom |
Feb 19 2010, 12:09 PM
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#15
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,139 Joined: 21-August 05 From: Port Orchard, WA 98367 Member No.: 4,626 Region Association: None |
OK Cap'n. I was sure I had heard of this years before. Is there any fix? Car has about 1500 miles on a complete tune up with points, plugs, cap, rotor. wires, etc. Had the engine out to replace seals and clean it up and went through all of the FI harness and engine wiring and replaced connectors and wires that did not look or read good with an ohmmeter' Checked all of the ground connections and wire brushed and renewed as needed. As in earlier post, runs just great otherwise.
Thanks, Tom |
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| Tom |
Feb 20 2010, 08:59 AM
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#16
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,139 Joined: 21-August 05 From: Port Orchard, WA 98367 Member No.: 4,626 Region Association: None |
Anyone have any more ideas to fix this or have any of you had this type of problem?
I think the next time I'm out driving, I'll park on a hill and see if it shows up to be hard starting after sitting for 10-15 min. Then I can let it bump start and see if that makes a difference. The starter is turning over very well- not slow at all. Have an Optima 34R and it is in great condition, so I really don't think it is a low voltage problem. Thanks, Tom |
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| tod914 |
Feb 20 2010, 09:10 AM
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#17
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,755 Joined: 19-January 03 From: Lincoln Park, NJ Member No.: 170 |
I had a simular problem with my 1st 914. Thinking back it was definetly an electrical issue. I believe it was the ignition switch that was the culprit. Only happened after the car was warm.
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| computers4kids |
Feb 20 2010, 09:20 AM
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#18
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Love these little cars! Group: Members Posts: 2,443 Joined: 11-June 05 From: Port Townsend, WA Member No.: 4,253 Region Association: None |
QUOTE(tod914 @ Feb 20 2010, 07:10 AM) I had a simular problem with my 1st 914. Thinking back it was definetly an electrical issue. I believe it was the ignition switch that was the culprit. Only happened after the car was warm. My 74 2.0 did that and it was the contacts in the ignition switch....heat=more resistance, perhaps that's why it's shows its ugly head when warm. I also agree with checking the coil...have you, or swap it out. My bet is on electrical. |
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| Gudhjem |
Feb 20 2010, 12:42 PM
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#19
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Member Group: Members Posts: 133 Joined: 29-March 07 From: Castro Valley, CA Member No.: 7,629 Region Association: Northern California |
QUOTE(Tom @ Feb 20 2010, 06:59 AM) Anyone have any more ideas to fix this or have any of you had this type of problem? I think the next time I'm out driving, I'll park on a hill and see if it shows up to be hard starting after sitting for 10-15 min. Then I can let it bump start and see if that makes a difference. The starter is turning over very well- not slow at all. Have an Optima 34R and it is in great condition, so I really don't think it is a low voltage problem. Thanks, Tom I have exactly the same problem, and am following this thread hoping to get some new ideas. My ignition switch is new. I've been suspecting that the spark is somehow not hot enough. Swapping out the coil (which isn't that old) may be my next step. |
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| Jeffs9146 |
Feb 20 2010, 12:49 PM
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#20
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Ski Bum Group: Members Posts: 4,062 Joined: 10-January 03 From: Discovery Bay, Ca Member No.: 128 |
Cold start valve sticking open? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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