Chip - 20 years old, Can't stand it any longer Options

[Pat Garvey]

I have ONR chip in my paint - ONE! It's been there since I dropped a screwriver in the 80's. Rest of the paint is perfect.

I'm looking for something that doesn't require a brush, since I am known to be sloppy.

Concerned about compatability, since my paint was put on in 1979, and is a poly-razzmataze paint of the era. Clear coated too. Paint was a Glssurit compound. Could look it up, but just wondering. There are "pens" out there, but I don't want them bleeding/bubbling what I have.

Suggestions?
Pat

[Tom_T]

I have ONR chip in my paint - ONE! It's been there since I dropped a screwriver in the 80's. Rest of the paint is perfect.

I'm looking for something that doesn't require a brush, since I am known to be sloppy.

Concerned about compatability, since my paint was put on in 1979, and is a poly-razzmataze paint of the era. Clear coated too. Paint was a Glssurit compound. Could look it up, but just wondering. There are "pens" out there, but I don't want them bleeding/bubbling what I have.

Suggestions?
Pat

Pat, try Paintscratch.com out in the SF Bay area. They can try to do a color match to your paint, since the mixtures aren't around anymore for pre`80's paint colors.

If you can pull a bit of the OE paint from the tar under your floor mats or some similar hidden spot to send to them, then they can match to it, but check that sample with your exposed body (on the car - NOT yours! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) ) to make sure that you don't have a sun &/or oxidation induced fading or color-change issue, since red is one of the worst for that.

They say the only bubbling old paints comes with the cheapie Maaco, Earl Scheib, 1-Day type paints if less than 2 years old. However, I's still find a spot where your repaint covers the old OE paint but won't show, & try it there first for both color match & lifting of the old paint.

They have paint pens in primer, color (multi-stage if applicable) & clear coat, as well as all the supplies you'd need for that dang screwdriver drop! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Check to see their chip size guidelines as to whether the pen is best, or if you need to jump to the spray can size (all are available on their website).

They also have a step by step instructions on-line.

I've used them for my other 3 cars on my sig "currents", & it works pretty well, but you need to use patience & care to do several smaller coats & smooth them out to blend well.

Hope this helps! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[scotty b]

Go to the local paint supplier, get a half pint of the correct color for the car, using a toothpick, get just enough on the end to ball up, place the drip on the chip and let it sit till it starts to set up. Do this until the chip is higher than the surrounding paint. Let the car sit for a couple days. NOW you can start to wet sand the spot with 1500-2000 grit. Use a hard block so you are just knocking off the top of the buldge, eventually it will sand down level and you can lightly buff it. Won't match exactly, but unless you want to take it in for the whole panel to be shot........ that is your best bet

[Tom_T]

Go to the local paint supplier, get a half pint of the correct color for the car, using a toothpick, get just enough on the end to ball up, place the drip on the chip and let it sit till it starts to set up. Do this until the chip is higher than the surrounding paint. Let the car sit for a couple days. NOW you can start to wet sand the spot with 1500-2000 grit. Use a hard block so you are just knocking off the top of the buldge, eventually it will sand down level and you can lightly buff it. Won't match exactly, but unless you want to take it in for the whole panel to be shot........ that is your best bet

btw - Same process Scotty suggests above - but I'd recco getting the small brush-top bottle from Paintscratch.com & using the toothpick technique or paint-pen, since they'll color match to your sample, vs. "something close" from the local auto paint store.

That should produce an almost exact match, then clear-coat after you've got it leveled as he describes above (& at paintscratch website) - but do NOT sand the clear-coat or it won't shine.

This will cost more than Scotty's local approach, but then I know you're anal! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[jonferns]

NOW you can start to wet sand the spot with 1500-2000 grit. Use a hard block so you are just knocking off the top of the buldge, eventually it will sand down level and you can lightly buff it.

I can't see Pat (or myself for that matter) touching his car with any sandpaper (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

[ghuff]

Make sure it dries and matches..........


They mixed anacona blue metallic for my car, but the previous owner had it shot before testing it

Result?

My front trunk, and rear inner trunk is a different color than the car. It is definitely a little deeper than the 1975 anacona blue metallic, but it is still anacona blue metallic.

I have heard that a lack of lead subsitute can do this? Maybe the body gurus here can comment on that again.

But the results will speak. I can take pictures of my car to show you an example, and learn from someone elses mistake if you like.

[Tom_T]

Make sure it dries and matches..........


They mixed anacona blue metallic for my car, but the previous owner had it shot before testing it

Result?

My front trunk, and rear inner trunk is a different color than the car. It is definitely a little deeper than the 1975 anacona blue metallic, but it is still anacona blue metallic.

I have heard that a lack of lead subsitute can do this? Maybe the body gurus here can comment on that again.

But the results will speak. I can take pictures of my car to show you an example, and learn from someone elses mistake if you like.

That's why they won't guarantee a color match on the older cars, and recco that all color test on an inconspicuous spot against the OE paint you're trying to match. It sounds like your PO did not do that! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Do you know if the PO sent an OE Anaconda paint chip off the car from which to color match?? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

It may take Pat (or anyone else) a couple of tries to get the color match right, so you're probably best calling them in person & ordering a small bottle to color test, & have them hold that formulation until after it tests out okay, or send them color pix of the mis-match result for correction & retry it again until it's exact.

In Pat's case he only needs a small size anyway, but it could take several tries to get the color just right for even a "Retired CW"!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[IronHillRestorations]

I like this!

http://www.langka.com

[Ferg]

I'm lucky enough to have a Sherwin Williams Auto Body paint supply store nearby. They have the "gun" that looks like a big radar gun and it tells them the match for the paint. It needs a nice flat surface and has been dead on every single time, even it it's not a factory code it will give them the mix. So far it's been amazingly spot on. Every car I buy, I take it to them and buy a pint of paint custom mixed. It costs me like 20 bucks. Way better color match than anything else IMO.

Ferg

[ghuff]

Make sure it dries and matches..........


They mixed anacona blue metallic for my car, but the previous owner had it shot before testing it

Result?

My front trunk, and rear inner trunk is a different color than the car. It is definitely a little deeper than the 1975 anacona blue metallic, but it is still anacona blue metallic.

I have heard that a lack of lead subsitute can do this? Maybe the body gurus here can comment on that again.

But the results will speak. I can take pictures of my car to show you an example, and learn from someone elses mistake if you like.

That's why they won't guarantee a color match on the older cars, and recco that all color test on an inconspicuous spot against the OE paint you're trying to match. It sounds like your PO did not do that! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Do you know if the PO sent an OE Anaconda paint chip off the car from which to color match?? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

It may take Pat (or anyone else) a couple of tries to get the color match right, so you're probably best calling them in person & ordering a small bottle to color test, & have them hold that formulation until after it tests out okay, or send them color pix of the mis-match result for correction & retry it again until it's exact.

In Pat's case he only needs a small size anyway, but it could take several tries to get the color just right for even a "Retired CW"!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Dude the PO of my car sucked so bad he shaved the door handles without realizing there was no way to route wiring for the hardware to open and pop the doors.

Seriously..... argh.

I highly doubt he did anything of the sort.

I still got it for much cheaper including shipping from cali than any comparably solid car out here in rusty maryland.

[Tom_T]

[quote name='ghuff' date='Sep 30 2009, 08:38 PM' post='1220480']
[quote name='Tom_T' post='1220165' date='Sep 29 2009, 10:54 PM']
[quote name='ghuff' post='1220121' date='Sep 29 2009, 08:31 PM']

Dude the PO of my car sucked so bad he shaved the door handles without realizing there was no way to route wiring for the hardware to open and pop the doors.

Seriously..... argh.

I highly doubt he did anything of the sort.

I still got it for much cheaper including shipping from cali than any comparably solid car out here in rusty maryland.
[/quote]

Totally Duuuude! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) .....but now you pay for the PO idiot's mistakes!

btw - 914s rust out here in CA too - especially near the beach & up in the mountains where it snows, & up north where it rains cats-n-dogs! ...take it from someone fighting the battle with my 914 since 1975! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

No need to send pix of some idiot's puck-up! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Mine's still as Porsche intended! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Get you some decent door shells & transplant the other stuff to them so you have a decent OE stock look.

Jeeesh......What kind of F-ing idiot shaves down the first set of OE flush door handles on a production car!!!???? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif)

It must be true what they say about some air-heads out here on the "left-coast"! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
.....or too much (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) killed the leetle grey cells!

Back to Pat's question - has any of this helped you Pat?? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[IronHillRestorations]

The Langka product is to smooth the blob you get from touching up a chip. You fill the chip with the touch up paint, let it dry and then use the Langka to smooth the touch up even with the original paint. Even if the color match isn't 100% perfect, it's much less detecable when you don't have the tell tale signs of touch up.

[Tom_T]

The Langka product is to smooth the blob you get from touching up a chip. You fill the chip with the touch up paint, let it dry and then use the Langka to smooth the touch up even with the original paint. Even if the color match isn't 100% perfect, it's much less detecable when you don't have the tell tale signs of touch up.

According to their website - their products include the touch-up paints & other supplies, & the touch-up kit includes what they call "the blob eliminator". Langka says they can smooth the bump/blob in 30-60 seconds, which may or may not be true time.

btw - the same thing can & should be done with the procedures on the paintscratch.com, langka.com, Pelican & other how-to webpages; by using very fine grit sandpapers (1500, 2000, 2500 grits, then rubbing compound & polish.
http://www.paintscratch.com/automotive-paint-tips.htm

Smoothness after the repair is one part of the challenge, while getting a near perfect or better color match & finish match (e.g.: clear coat, color top coat, etc.) are equally important - otherwise you end up with a smooth spot of off-color or off-finish paint & not a "happy camper"! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Pat or whomever is well served to take the time to get an as near to perfect color match, match the finish (Pat's has clear coat), pre-test for color & finish in an inconspicuous spot, & do several tries if necessary.

btw - many of the paint manufacturers use the color gun system to match to sample now, so Pat could check with his favorite high quality body shop as to which manufacturers produce the highest quality & longest lasting paints. The last I heard Dupont, Dunn-Edwards, PPG & a couple of others were considered Topz, but that could be different now.
http://www.paintscratch.com/painttypes.htm
http://www.paintscratch.com/apple.html

Paintscratch.com uses Dupont & PPG Acrylic Lacquer according to my cans/bottles for my 3 other cars.

http://www.paintscratch.com/

I've used it & it works well & they got the colors correct, but all were 85 or 88 cars with OE colors in their systems.....but I get nothing for a recco. Also, I went to a local auto body supply for the 1500 & 2000 grit & other supplies since it was less there than on their website, for the same stuff.

Hope this helps Pat & others with the same problem!

btw - IMHO, it's a good idea to get an extra small bottle & a quart or pint of the repaint paint color from your body shop or paint supplier whenever you repaint your car, then keep it in a cool dry place SEALED until needed for use (also the same clear coat if applicable).

In Pat's case, after 20 years they would probably be fossilized or separated beyond redemption by now, but then he might have fixed the spot soon after he did it if he had some extra pait for touch-up available.

[Pat Garvey]

I have ONR chip in my paint - ONE! It's been there since I dropped a screwriver in the 80's. Rest of the paint is perfect.

I'm looking for something that doesn't require a brush, since I am known to be sloppy.

Concerned about compatability, since my paint was put on in 1979, and is a poly-razzmataze paint of the era. Clear coated too. Paint was a Glssurit compound. Could look it up, but just wondering. There are "pens" out there, but I don't want them bleeding/bubbling what I have.

Suggestions?
Pat

Pat, try Paintscratch.com out in the SF Bay area. They can try to do a color match to your paint, since the mixtures aren't around anymore for pre`80's paint colors.

If you can pull a bit of the OE paint from the tar under your floor mats or some similar hidden spot to send to them, then they can match to it, but check that sample with your exposed body (on the car - NOT yours! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) ) to make sure that you don't have a sun &/or oxidation induced fading or color-change issue, since red is one of the worst for that.

They say the only bubbling old paints comes with the cheapie Maaco, Earl Scheib, 1-Day type paints if less than 2 years old. However, I's still find a spot where your repaint covers the old OE paint but won't show, & try it there first for both color match & lifting of the old paint.

They have paint pens in primer, color (multi-stage if applicable) & clear coat, as well as all the supplies you'd need for that dang screwdriver drop! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Check to see their chip size guidelines as to whether the pen is best, or if you need to jump to the spray can size (all are available on their website).

They also have a step by step instructions on-line.

I've used them for my other 3 cars on my sig "currents", & it works pretty well, but you need to use patience & care to do several smaller coats & smooth them out to blend well.

Hope this helps! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

I'm a little confused here - the car is bahia red (a catalogued color). By that, I mean the mixture is public. Why send them a chip from under the floor mats, which area has never seen the sun?
Pat

[Pat Garvey]

Go to the local paint supplier, get a half pint of the correct color for the car, using a toothpick, get just enough on the end to ball up, place the drip on the chip and let it sit till it starts to set up. Do this until the chip is higher than the surrounding paint. Let the car sit for a couple days. NOW you can start to wet sand the spot with 1500-2000 grit. Use a hard block so you are just knocking off the top of the buldge, eventually it will sand down level and you can lightly buff it. Won't match exactly, but unless you want to take it in for the whole panel to be shot........ that is your best bet

Ya know Scotty, I did that same thing with my blutorange 73 T, back in '93. Cost a few bucks too (Glasurit). But my T had lotsa chips in the nose. Still have the can - rock hard!

No, I have ONE friggen chip. It's about 1/64th of an inch and round - down to primer. I don't want to spend $50 for a pint, when all I need is a drop!

I also have to be very careful because I clear coated the paint in '79, so I don't want to start oxidation of surrounding areas.

Should probably just live with it, but it's an imperfection.
Pat

[Pat Garvey]

[quote name='sendjonathanmail' date='Sep 29 2009, 08:31 PM' post='1220102']
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(scotty b @ Sep 29 2009, 09:02 PM) </div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->
NOW you can start to wet sand the spot with 1500-2000 grit. Use a hard block so you are just knocking off the top of the buldge, eventually it will sand down level and you can lightly buff it. [/quote]

I can't see Pat (or myself for that matter) touching his car with any sandpaper (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
[/quote]
Jon,
Actually, I will try sanding (2000 grit). That's not much more that the effort it takes to wipe your a_s. I use similat sanding bands for my model railroad vehicles.

I just want a good source for properly mixed paint, in a pen-style applicator.

This is not an uncommon paint.
Pat

[Tom_T]

I'm a little confused here - the car is bahia red (a catalogued color). By that, I mean the mixture is public. Why send them a chip from under the floor mats, which area has never seen the sun?
Pat

Pat,

If the Bahia Red is EXACTLY the same as on the OTHER Model & later Post-1981 Porsche cars (911s, 924s, etc.), then you could try to just use their on-line system for one of those years/models in Bahia Red.

However, my understanding was that the 914's VW based colors & paints were slightly different from the similarly named ones under Porsche.

ERgo, I suggested getting a small chip of paint off your car to glue the backside onto a 3x5 card to send to them for a color match. If you have another area exposed to the sun from which you prefer to take a small chip (e.g.: next to the edge of the current chip), then go ahead there.

However, I'd suggest to take one from the under-floor-mat or other unseen area, then hold it up to the chip area to see if it's still close, before making the chip bigger by taking some paint from the edge of it.

BTW - they also have clear coat paint pens to do the final coat to match your current paint finish.

http://www.paintscratch.com/
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[Tom_T]

[quote name='Pat Garvey' date='Oct 2 2009, 06:48 PM' post='1221311']
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(scotty b @ Sep 29 2009, 08:02 PM) </div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->
[/quote]

Should probably just live with it, but it's an imperfection.
Pat
[/quote]

Pat - that primer will allow in moisture to start a rust spot under the paint if left unpainted, especially if you take it on that around the US tour, in weather locally, etc.

We just went thru that on paint chips left unfixed on the `88 Honda Civic which my wife/kids inherited from a relative. Most tiny to large chips ended up with rust on the sheet metal under the primer, & tons of sanding & re-priming for us! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Don't leave "your baby" as is, & you should check to make sure there isn't rust already under the old primer. If you sand off the primer under the chip, then you can also get a primer pen there).

[Pat Garvey]

[quote name='Tom_T' date='Oct 2 2009, 08:33 PM' post='1221330']
[quote name='Pat Garvey' date='Oct 2 2009, 06:48 PM' post='1221311']
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(scotty b @ Sep 29 2009, 08:02 PM) </div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->
[/quote]

Should probably just live with it, but it's an imperfection.
Pat
[/quote]

Pat - that primer will allow in moisture to start a rust spot under the paint if left unpainted, especially if you take it on that around the US tour, in weather locally, etc.

We just went thru that on paint chips left unfixed on the `88 Honda Civic which my wife/kids inherited from a relative. Most tiny to large chips ended up with rust on the sheet metal under the primer, & tons of sanding & re-priming for us! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Don't leave "your baby" as is, & you should check to make sure there isn't rust already under the old primer. If you sand off the primer under the chip, then you can also get a primer pen there).
[/quote]
I hear what you're saying, but I'm a little "off the curve".
My 914 hasn't seen H20 in 25 years - no joke! Hasn't beeen "washed" since the 89 Parade in Traverse City. The screwdriver did its damage after.

So, let me get this straight & correct me if Im wrong. I should remove a piece of paint from somewhere on my 914 (like under that mats, where it's original), send the chip to this outfit they will provide me with a touchup "thingie". Right? Feel free to comment here.

But.....the paint under tha mats has never been subjected to radiant oxidation. Not a good sample to send.

So, should I make a new chip from the same area to send them........or, should they simply refer to the formula for bahia red paint?

Why are we making this complicated?
Pat

[Tom_T]

Okay Pat - lets try the KISS approach first.....

Go to Paintscratch.com, enter your car type as 1972 Volkswagen Convertible" in the little drop down boxes & go to the next page (click button), then pick the L30E Bahia Red & go to the next page, then select the "Base Coat" (color coat) pen at the top, plus add a clear coat pen & primer pen if you want.

When they ship it to you, they send a plastic coated test card to try out the paint pen vs. your paint. If it's a good match, then you're all set to do the chip repaint repair with the primer, base/color coat & clear coat pens in hand!

If it's not a match, then you've got 2 out of the 3 pens, you're out $15 for the off-color pen, & you can try to get a paint sample of some sort for a 2nd try with a custom color match of the 1972 era Bahia Red L30E for another $15 _ tax & S+H!

FYI _ I just did a search on there to try to find a Bahia Red under the Porsche colors for various years, but nothing comes up, probalby because the L30E color codes were VW, so I tried that & after trying with several `72 VW models, it came up for the convertible.

Hope this helps? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)