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tuff914 |
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 67 Joined: 6-May 08 From: Australia Member No.: 9,020 Region Association: None ![]() |
Hi Folks,
Here's my story, drove the 914 into work for a change, on the way home, whenever I stopped and started again could feel something slipping a little, kinda like the clutch was'nt taking up right. Any way went from 4th back to 3rd going around a corner, and it sounded like something fell off, could'nt see anything and an SUV was going the other way around the same corner so thought that was it. About 3 or 4 miles further along had to stop and turn right, as I accelerated away BANG, clutched it and pulled over, went to the back of the car and can move the right hand drive shaft up and down about an inch, wheel side not gearbox side. Flatbed home and thats where it sits, have'nt even looked at it. So a few questions (Remember I live in Australia) 1. Do you reckon it's the CV? 2. What now, is CV removal replacement some one with average mechanical skills can complete or do I take it to a shop. 3. I'm sure I read somewhere VW Bus CV's fit, or do I need to buy 914 ones like these, http://www.pmbperformance.com/catalog/item...868/3857681.htm remember I live in Australia we do not have many after market Porsche parts suppliers, but plenty of VW ones. So I need to get this right first time if I'm getting them from the States. 4. I can find threads on rebuilding CV's but none on how to remove replace them from the car. (I have a Haynes and a Clymer) 5. Do i need to do both sides, since I assume they are the same age and same miles. car is a 71 with 1.8 twin carb engine(not that the engine size matters) Any help appreciated Thanks John |
srb7f |
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#2
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 157 Joined: 17-May 04 From: Roswell, GA Member No.: 2,077 Region Association: None ![]() |
Sounds like the CV to me. It's not too hard, but will require you to remove the entire half-shaft. To remove the CV bolts, you will need a special tool (I think it's like a 12 pointed socket) that I got at NAPA. Pelicanparts should have something if you don't have NAPA down under.
Not sure if you can get away with Bus CVs, but the price of that kit is hard to beat for a brand new joint that you won't have to worry about for a long time. Removing the CV is basically removing the half-shaft, then removing a circlip to slide the joint off the shaft. Probably worth at least checking all 4 CV joints before you order your parts, and repack them if they're OK to use. Hopefully, this isn't your only mode of transportation if you have to order parts from the states. Goodluck |
ClayPerrine |
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#3
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Life's been good to me so far..... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 16,312 Joined: 11-September 03 From: Hurst, TX. Member No.: 1,143 Region Association: NineFourteenerVille ![]() ![]() |
The tool to remove the CV joint bolts is called a "Triple Square" tool. You will need this before you can remove the joints. Once they are off, it is easy to replace the joints, just remove the snap ring, pull the joint off the shaft, put the new one on, and put the snap ring on. Then pack with grease (messy, wear gloves). To put the joints back on, you need to have CV joint gaskets.
If you want new (not rebuilt) CV joints, Zims Autotechnic in Bedford, Texas sells new joints, complete with boots and grease. They also have the gaskets and even the triple square tool. You can find them at www.allzim.com If you call them, tell the parts guys I sent you. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
Eric_Shea |
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#4
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PMB Performance ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 19,304 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() |
Bus CV's do not fit.
The ones we sell (and Zims) are Type 1 CV's with a pair of modified holes to hold the pins. If you have plenty of VW suppliers there, buy those and have them machined locally. It will save you a lot over ordering from me and having them shipped to you. One thing; get the Loebro brand. We've tried the other brands and they seem to extend too far and can become a problem when powering on in a turn. This can cause the cage to over-extend and crack. The Loebro brand is spot on to the original 914 CV. When you get the new CV's they will come with a more standard hex cap allen fastener. If you get them as a kit they include the rubber boot, fasteners, clips and the CV grease. For some odd reason the kits don't include the gaskets or Schnorr washers. We include the gaskets and washers with our kit but, if you order from a VW supplier you'll want to remember the gaskets and M8 Schnorr washers. Hope that helps. |
P.Rocket |
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#5
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 54 Joined: 17-March 08 From: Abbotsford BC Member No.: 8,822 Region Association: None ![]() |
Long distance troubleshooting is a challenge.
I did have a thought that you may want to check and make sure the large axle nut on the wheel-end is tight. Just make sure the excessive play exists in the CV joint before replacing the complete shaft. Not sure about the 914 CV's but I haven't had a huge success with rebuilt shafts or CV's. I tend to lean towards sprending the extra $ and installing new (when available) on my cars. Get that thing fixed and enjoy your summer down-under. Cheers, Andrew. |
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