I went to the welding shop today to get some CO2 Argon stuff and asked about weldable primer in a rattle can and it turns out it has been banned, at least here in Kalifornia. All they had was a GALLON of brushable stuff. What have you all been using? Any chance it's available at Home Depot Racing?
Cheers, Elliot

Elliot, I don't know about others, but my experience with weldable primer is that it
is not very weldable... just my .00002....

Its not weldable....

Brush on cold galvanizing is all it is..a zinc coating.
Because of the high zinc content it might be able to hold an electrical charge...I find it just messed up the weld.
I do treat the metal that I will never see again, then spot grind or spot blast the areas that I will weld so its bare steel for welding.

Rich

Order some u Pol from the internets.

Looks like a little spot grinding in my near future.

Spies Hecker etching / wash prime is VERY weldable and very much rust resistant. I painted a Jeep hood 4 years ago with nothing but the etch primer on it. It has sat outside uncoverd in the southern climate since and has NO rust on it, except for 2 spots where the primer was scratched off, and it has not spread out from, or under, those thin lines. I use it exclusivly when I am lapping two panels together. It does take a second for the weld to get good and clean but it does a great job.

Can you give us the exact product? I searched and found a few things from spies hecker.


British stuff it seems.

WRONG !!! Spies is GERMAN. NEVER EVER put anything British anywhere near your car. In fact don't even THINK about anything British around your Porsche.....except for Aston Martins


http://www.spieshecker.co.uk/portal/en?pag...114325248555332

Rust-oleum makes a cold galvanizing spray that is supposed to be weldable, we carry it in a spray can, or brush on....any decent Rustoleum dealer should have it......

You really don't want to use cold galvanizing paint for weld through primer as it will give off toxic fumes when it burns.

I use 3M weld through primer (I'll get the part # later today) where needed.

For sandwich plates like the stiffening kits I tack it in place and then use a stainless toothbrush and/or a scratch awl to remove the primer where I'll be welding. Yes you can weld through the stuff, but it takes a lot of amperage and it's easy to get weld inclusions (trash in the weld).

I agree 100%. I have been using the U-Pol product which is supposed to be good, but I find that while you can weld through it, I tend to think its better to remove a bit where you plan to weld.

My method is to use a small conical stone (small point) on a air die grinder. I test fit parts and then mark my welds with a sharpie pen. I then knock a small amount of primer off using the die grinder right under the pen marks. I find that works very well for me. Especially with rosette welds.

Wurth weld thru, 3m weld thru. othres used have caused excesive spatter. I prefer to scrape a small amount off the EXACT weld point. THE FUMES ARE BAD FOR YOU.

http://www.eastwood.com/bloxide-weldable-primer-quarts.html

I still prefer to clean up the location of the weld down to bare metal though.

Welding galvanized metal and/or welding and burning zinc will make you sick.
I forget the exact terminology used, but it does make you sick.

If you have to do it, and sometimes you must, try to wear a mask similar to a heavy duty painters mask for the fumes (3m sells the right cartridge) and if you get sick, drink alot of milk right away and lay down and rest...it will pass.

Rich

http://www.websoft-solutions.net/N95_Fumes...or_p/3m8214.htm