So in the process of finally getting around to getting some parts off of the parts car, I have found SS HEs yesterday, I got the rear bumper and lower valance off and found a Bursch Exhaust that still had the factory sticker on it and the factory paint hasn't been burned off yet, so it is basically new. The clutch tube was repaired recently, and my project car needs a new one, so as long as the repair was done well on the parts car, I should have something to work with.

The bad... I am trying to get the side-shift linkage off so I can use it on my project car. I pulled the boot off that covers the linkage on the tranny, and fluid POURED out of the boot once I got it off. Now I am trying to get the linkage apart. I have loosened the set screws, but it won't come apart. Any tips? And is the tranny fried? The fluid smelled burned (in fact my hands still smell like burning tranny fluis even though I have washed them three times), so what does everyone think? Try and save it, or put it up as a core since I have another side shift that I am planning on using anyways?

On a side note; everyone repeat after me

I WILL NOT BUY SCREWDRIVERS OR SOCKETS FROM HARBOR FREIGHT
I WILL NOT BUY SCREWDRIVERS OR SOCKETS FROM HARBOR FREIGHT
I WILL NOT BUY SCREWDRIVERS OR SOCKETS FROM HARBOR FREIGHT

This lesson should not be learned twice.

I have screwdrivers from HF that that are fine. and if I lose it, oh well.. I'm replacing every flat head screw I find with a allen-head equivalent too, tho.

I bought the biggest toughest looking flathead driver I could find. The first time I tried to use it, the tip snapped in half. Maybe I'm just too tough for the screwdrivers

dunno, mine is little pocket screw drivers that you pull the end out of and flip over to go from philips and flat head... great screwdrivers for computers, too if a screw is that toughI have an impact screwdriver that I hit with a hammer(2lb sledge) to "actuate"

I had to use this recently to change the rotors on my honda

Ohhhhh, one of those. I love those little buggers. I have one in the glovebox of each car, one in my desk, and one on every floor of the house as well as 2 currently residing in my toolbox. You might say I'm a fan of the 6-in-1. I'll give ya a little tip (don't tell anybody), when HF has their sale paper, take it into Autozone and say you want them to price match the 6-in-1, they will have to give you their $10 jobby for a buck! I did this recently and walked out with $90 worth of tools for $8.

...... I have no pride.

Now, getting back to the topic, how do I get the linkage apart, and what should I do with this tranny?

awesome! I'll remember that!

TO GIGAMIGHT...I went thru the "frozen linkage problem", everything rusty as hell..situation 3 months ago on a parts car I purchased for the engine , gearbox and wheels. (and lots of other bits and pieces) I soaked everything down in "NUT BREAKER LOOSE" penetrant oil...which is basically kerosene. IT didn,t help....but thats the best thing I can recommend . leave it soaking long enough and it will probably free up the linkage so you can disassemble it. I left it on 2-weeks. no luck. maybe your parts car will not be as rusty, and the linkage fused together. In order to remove the engine and gearbox I finally had to SAWS -ALL the linkage apart....saving only the critical parts at the side shift console...hose everything down in penetrating oil, and give some things a tap or two with a small hammer to vibrate the oil into the fuzed, rusty, stuff. after throughly draining the transmission....clean up the exterior...(so crap wont fall into it) and pull the "CHUNK". then you can see if it,s got some good basic parts , or its tost. THE differential oil smelling burned is not ALWAYS an indication it,s fried. Some of the old and cheaper trans oils do this. make sure to measure any gaskets you encounter, mark their location, AND SAVE AS MUCH OF THEM AS YOU CAN. the trans rebuilder will appreciate you for this, and just might mean you get the R/P depth reset properly....spare parts are always nice to have.

Loosening the set (cone) screws won't help. They MUST be REMOVED.

The Cap'n