Now that I've had enough time to get acquainted with my Teener, I'm putting together my small project list. I'm sharing this in the hopes that others can offer advice, and in case there are any NoVA guys out there who are just achin' to lend a hand to a newb.

This car is a great restoration candidate, but that's not my plan. I bought it as a driver and a driver it shall be.

A. Switch to dual carbs.
Now that the weather is getting cooler, I'm really noticing the drawbacks of the single carb. I had the lovely experience of flooding the engine when trying to pull onto a busy 4-lane. (Fortunately, the approaching SUV switched lanes.) I wanted to do this on the cheap, but now I think I should do it right. Might order a Raby 40mm dual HPMX kit once his new linkage is ready.

B. IP fixes & updates
I plan to pull my IP and repair my Odometer using the Pelican instructions. While I have it out, I'd like to fix or upgrade the IP lighting. Are LED's a simple plug-and-play? What are the options here? Long as we're at it, I should try to get my console gauges working properly. Voltmeter seems fine, I can use Pelican instructions to repair the non-functional clock. I'm suspicious of the temp gauge because it seems to take a very long time to climb and never gets more than 1/4 of the way across. Also, there are loose-ended wires behind my console gauges, which makes me further suspicious. Should I replace the oil temp gauge with a CHT temp gauge?

C. Interior
Might try to update the dash and/or repair the "middle seat" pad, which is torn and disconnected at the hinge. Also, the original firewall insulation (engine bay side) is torn and falling off. If it's easy to remove, I may do so... but then I'll probably want to insulate the firewall from the cabin side, which seems like a big job to a newb.

Now, confessions:
I've done oil changes on my own cars in the past and other routine maintenance stuff, but I have neither the experience nor the equipment to do much on my own. I'm perfectly willing to learn as I go if I can avoid any stupid mistakes that might hurt the car. I also have a full-time job and two kids under 3, so time is a challenge. Plus, I don't want to take the car out of commission for more than a few days at a time if I can avoid it.

I'm fairly confident in my ability on Project B... less so on Project C... much less so on Project A.

It is likely that someone near you will pitch in to help. You'll probably be OK on the firewall and gauges, just label everything well on the gauges. The carb installation is pretty straightforward, the linkage can be a challenge and getting them to run right can kick your butt. Redline Weber has a good writeup on their website for getting the carbs to run out of the box. DON'T skip any steps.

good choice.


no
replace your clock with a CHT. oil pressure, oil temp and CHT are the 3 vital stats imo


not that bad. if you want to really do it right, do fat mat, dyna mat or one of those in the cab, and then a good insulating pad in the engine bay. I've done neither yet. but both are on my list when I get around to it.

I think 914ap has a repro of the middle seat/console thing.

you can do all of these, and we'll be here to help

Thanks for the replies. Anybody have suggestions on IP lighting?

A couple other quirks of my teener:
The wipers don't return to "home" - they just stop wherever they are when you switch off the stalk. So for all the trouble of people trying to get their wipers to rest on the driver's or passenger's side, I just try to flip them off when they're all the way down on the passenger side. Not a problem for me. (This isn't normal behavior, is it?)

Also - the seat belt - ignition interlock is still functional. I don't care to circumvent it. It's mildly annoying when I just need the engine running to check something, but I think it's part of the charm...

Original radio works sporadically and is very hard to tune. But most of the time that I drive the teener, I'm listening to the music coming from behind the firewall.

For what it's worth, my general inclination is to keep the appearance as close to stock as possible while making improvements to driveability and reliability. Oh, and without breaking the bank.

The PO did all of the rust rehab (plus POR15), put in a 19mm Master Cyl and braided stainless brake lines, new rear shocks, new dual exhaust.

With any luck, root will host another Oktoberfest garage session in Sterling. Don't know whether that will happen as he's been traveling a lot though.

If you really want your car to run well, you should replace your single carb with the stock FI.

definately an option... for a full stock engine the FI will probably run the best.

I could certainly be convinced to go with FI instead. But some PO at some point removed it, and I can only presume that was for reasons of reliability. I want a car that I can confidently take on a weekend trip without getting stranded, and I'd have no idea where to start if I had to repair the FI system on my own...

I have a pretty stock 914 2.0L as a daily driver, and put about ~15,000 miles a year on it. As a result, I do have to perform basic maintenance on a monthly basis. But I've never been stranded as a result of FI system problems.

IMHO, if you want your engine to run correctly, and it still has the stock cam in the engine, going back to FI will provide the best running, most reliable solution. I prefer the Pertronix replacement for the points, as it reduces my maintenance. But other than that, my engine is bone stock.

Eric Read

> IMHO, if you want your engine to run correctly, and it still has the stock cam in the engine, going back to FI will provide the best running, most reliable solution. I prefer the Pertronix replacement for the points, as it reduces my maintenance. But other than that, my engine is bone stock.

I agree.

Over the course of the year, with a weather conditions varying as much as they do in your state, stock FI on a stock motor will run better than carbs.

Outline the inside of your gauges with electroluminescent wire. Great lighting compared to stock bulbs and LEDs

I disagree....
If you REALLY want your car to run well put a flat 6 in there!.......OK just kidding....well sort of

Flip, you're giving the PO way too much credit. He didn't remove the FI due to some insight regarding the unreliability of the FI system. He removed it because he was a dumbass who couldn't resolve a minor problem.

So now you've got a fuel system that won't start readily in the cold, makes less power, won't idle well, gets poor gas mileage, and makes your engine compartment oily.

I'm pretty committed to ditching the single Weber. As I see it, here are my choices:

1. New 40mm dual carb set ($700 from Raby)
2. Original D-Jet system
3. EFI - are there any good options out there?

Being new to this, I need some more data. I do live in a climate that has four seasons and I'd like to drive it occasionally in the winter, as long as there's no salt on the roads.

Here are my criteria:
-Performance (good response in all conditions)
-Reliability & ease of maintenance
-Expense of purchasing the parts
-Complexity/expense of installing

I'd put fuel economy on that list, but even with the rich-running Weber progressive I can get 25mpg or better, and none of the options would be drastically worse.

We've heard from the FI purists... anyone care to speak up on behalf of the other options here?

LEDs are not an improvement. They just don't have the output. If you search pelican parts 911 board you will see that there are other, more successful ways, but alot more effort too. Just get new incandescent bulbs. I've done blue LEDS, red LEDS (better), and all new bulbs (best).

I have carbs, and with a proper cam and exhaust and intake, it can kick ass, but the FI probably has better support now then back in the day. I love the sound of the FI car- it has smoothness unachievable with carbs..

another part of the equation is you own knowledge and your budget... option #3 is $ and there isn't a bolt-on application. I think the closest is something like SDS, followed by megasquirt, either of which will be a bit more coin than either of the other options.

given your scenario, if I were in your shoes I'd lean to the stock FI... you have the stock engine, and the stock FI is made for that(duh) crabs are a challenge in the winter but can be plenty drivable... but FI still wins. plus if you have a limited knowledge of both, learning FI is a little more advantageous in the future... and if you ever want to build a bigger engine, you can use a good bit of the stock parts on a megasquirt setup. so more future proofing... I'm just saying you are at a crossroads.... do you want to learn old-school carbs? or learn knowledge more applicable to modern cars?

If you'll allow an FI purist to weigh in again?

Look, don't misunderstand this -- if you decide to retrofit the original FI system onto your car, you will have some problems.
It won't run correctly the first time you try to start it.
You'll need to debug the wiring.
You'll need to make sure you've got proper fuel pressure.
You'll need to calibrate the TPS.
You'll chase vacuum leaks.
You'll wonder about the head temp sensor and the auxiliary air valve.
But when you get all this stuff sorted out, it will run well and reliably.

Buy a used FI system, do your research, replace all the gaskets and lines, buy a new head temp sensor, buy a new pressure reg, consider replacing your fuel lines, clean the injectors.

Most importantly, ask questions on this board. You'll find that the experts here on the board are generous with their knowledge. I'm confident with their guidance you can get the EFI to run.

I am pretty sure I have a complete 2.0 F.I. setup on a low mileage motor if you decide to go that route. I'll try to remember to check on it this weekend.

I have a 2.0 injection too, I was probably going to sell soon too, I'll take pics tomorrow and get on it... between me and scotty, maybe we'll get you going

Is there any way to verify the cam? Would the PO know what cam is in there? I would put the original FI system back on and take one of the offers to buy their system. I could help you take stock of what you have now and help make a list of what you need. Are you looking to do a valve adjust or just an oil change? Valve adjust is not beyond your ability but you'd want to do it on a cold engine. Oil change is piece 'o cake.

The PO had the car just over a year and I don't think he did anything but oil changes (anything engine-wise, that is).

A valve check is probably overdue. This is my first 914 so I have no point of reference for how the engine should sound & perform - but the only obvious (to me) issues have been related to the single carb.

Have you gone thru & cleaned ALL of the grounds? That takes care of a host of gremlins all by itself. Clean your connections at the fuse panel, and replace all the fuses with new. Go with stock FI if you can. Pull the engine side pad & toss it, all it does is collect water & cause rust.
Just my .02

There is a PCA Potomac tech inspection in Merrifield on Sat Oct 24 from 9-2. The location is ASG and the PCA Potomac 914 expert owns the shop/works at the shop. The tech is free and you can have your car put up on a lift and looked at (maybe you're more knowledgeable about 914's than the tech inspectors). I am one of the tech inspectors (volunteer, you get what you pay for) and will be taking my car (the one in the avatar) to get teched for the last Potomac DE of the year the next weekend at Summit Point. Other 914'ers from this site should be there also (MikeSpraggi and degreeoff are signed up to attend the DE). Nice opportunity to meet some people and inspect the car, ask questions to the expert (Ray) and eat free food.

Thanks for all the replies and info. I will try to get to the Tech Inspection at ASG next weekend.

Two dumb questions that didn't seem to merit starting a new thread:

1. Will switching from single carb to either dual-carb or FI require dropping the engine? Seems like it would be doable without, but might be a little challenging.

2. The jack post hole on the driver's side rocker won't hold the plastic plug/cover. The passenger side has a cover, and two more came with the car. But when I insert either one into the driver's side jack post hole, within about 30 seconds it pops most of the way back out. Is this typically due to deformed covers, or a problem with the rocker or jack hole?

It will be much easier to install new induction with the engine out. You can drop the whole 914 drive train in an hour, someone will post here that it can be done in half-an-hour but that's if you've done it before and everything is all at hand (jack(s), dolly, etc). You will probably save enough time on the install with the engine out to make up for dropping the engine compared to installing with engine in. "While you're in there" .... do the valve adjust with the engine out.

Maybe you can wedge something in the jack hole cover to keep it in.

Can be done in an hour if you know what you are doing and everything goes smooth. it took 4 hours the first time I dropped one (start to finish with an equally nooby helper).

Still, on a scale of 1 - 10, dropping the engine is only a 3, especially since you have a single carb. Only real pit fall is a stripped out CV bolt.

Zach

2. The jack post hole on the driver's side rocker won't hold the plastic plug/cover.

I drilled a hole through my jack post plugs and use a cotter pin to hold them in place on the rockers. I don't use the factory jack, but can still remove the covers if need be by pulling the pin.
Mike

I'm reviving my project thread because my car's in the shop and I'm in withdrawal. This might turn out to be an interesting project thread for other total novice types out there, if I make any progress.

What I've done so far

• Fixed the brake light switch (was keeping the brake lights permanently on)
• Reattached the lid on the center storage bin & did a crappy vinyl repair
• Removed the disintegrating insulation pad from the firewall
• Replaced IP bulbs
• Cleaned fuses and replaced a few that were badly worn
• Disconnected a fried wire behind the IP and left it back there wrapped in black tape (shame on me)
• Oil & filter change

What is currently being done (by a pro wrench)

• Valve adjustment
• Clutch adjustment (new clutch if needed, we'll see)
• Reinstalling the thermostat & cooling flaps (removed by a PO; bought replacement parts from a board member)
• Check condition of fuel lines, possibly replace
• Repack CV boots and add the retaining clips that were missing (allowing all the grease to splatter under the car)
• Firewall shift linkage bushing (was missing); rear shift linkage cover (was missing)
• Check condition of tranny fluid, brake fluid, seals, etc.

What I plan to do and/or have done within the next few months

• Fix some electrical stuff - IP wiring, only one speaker works, stuff like that
• Remove the rockers, clean and repaint them (the PO's cheap paint is coming off in huge flakes), reinstall
• Remove the Weber Progressive and put in dual 40mm carbs
• Install a 3rd brake light, hidden under the engine lid mesh (already have the part and I've mocked it up)

Someday...

• Add soundproofing behind the backpad
• Wire up an electrical windshield washer
• Replace the console clock with CHT gauge
• Rear fender panel is misaligned, causing the passenger side window to leak in heavy rain and making for a poor targa seal

Edit - added one item I forgot that's currently being fixed.

My last post on this thread was when I dropped my car off with a local Porsche mechanic. I told him I was in no rush to get it back on the road in the winter, it's not my daily driver, etc. He listened.

Today, he called me by the shop because he had the drivetrain out.

I had no idea that he'd already gotten to work on it, but he's already done:

New clutch & Flywheel (flywheel was in bad shape) & throwout bearing
New transmission fluid
New spark plugs
Reinstalled the used cooling flaps & thermostat I bought from a member here (they were deleted by a PO)
Lots of new hoses on the engine... nice braided ones
Valve adjustment
Generally cleaned up the engine & transmission
Added the rear shift bushing cover

We also discovered that the fuel lines are relatively new (probably replaced when the PO moved the fuel pump to the front); and that I have Petronix ignition... I just never opened up the dizzy before!

I'm incredibly stoked to be getting my car back next week after everything is buttoned back up. I'm worried about just getting it home (about 3 miles) with all the sand & salt on the roads around here, but it's gonna take a lot of self-restraint not to drive it all the time til the roads clear up and the weather warms up.

I only had the car 3 months before I dropped it off, and hadn't seen it in a month and a half. I've been dreaming about driving it and waking up wondering if I ever really bought it. Can't wait to have it back.



Sorry, forgot to bring a camera to the garage to get a shot of my beautiful drivetrain. Wish I had. It looks good.

Seriously, though...

After I drive it home on salted roads, should I rinse it off, or does that just add to the problem?

Is it alright to go for occasional winter drives (salt & sand on most roads) and rinse off the underside when I'm done?

Do I need to just sit it the car in my driveway and make engine noises while pretending to drive it, until a few rainstorms have washed away all the salt?

Just sit in the car and make vroom vroom noises. I would think that rinsing off the salt would only make matters worse and accelerate corrosion, if anything your best bet would be to try and blow off the salt with compressed air.

By the time you pick up the car, the rain here will probably wash away the salt and stuff (unless the forecast for this Fri turns bad). Now that the engine is out, you could have replaced the single carb

The original plan was to buy Jake Raby's dual 40mm carb kit with the new cable linkage and install that at the same time as all the other work. But since it's delayed until Spring/Summer, I decided not to go with an "interim" solution and just wait til next fall to do that.

Truth is, in warm weather, I have no problem with the single carb. Heck, it even has an electric choke, so it's easier to start than duals will probably be... Problem is trying to drive in <60 degree ambient temps before it warms up; flooding the engine at inopportune times.

Until the weather warms up, I'll just have to give plenty of time for the engine to warm up and/or have a very gentle foot for the first few miles.

Sounds like an excuse to get all the NoVA/MD/DC 914'ers together for an engine drop party/cook-out/drunken brawl!

to that!

We didn't have Oktoberfest at root's shop last year...

BTW, electricals scare me a little bit but I'd like to fix some of my IP wiring. Anyone local who'd like to participate or tutor me?

Stuff like:
Replacing the burnt wire from the headlight switch to the parking lights indicator in the speedometer.
Troubleshooting my non-functional high beams indicator in the tach
Determining once and for all if I would get separate left/right turn signal indicators if I replace the relay

Perhaps also install the Bowlsby fog-flasher kit while we're in there

Click to view attachment

After three months of getting my 914 fix vicariously through the forum, I finally got my car back yesterday.

It's looking good and driving well. New clutch/flywheel, shifting better than ever before. My wrench spent a little time troubleshooting the relay board and cleaning up various contacts too.

I had a scare on the way home from his shop - a burst of smoke from the dash. Since I've had electrical issues with the IP, I turned back to the garage to talk it over. Pulled the tach and peeked back there, couldn't see anything suspicious other than the previously fried wire for the Parking Light indicator, which I disconnected and taped up a few months ago. One possibility is that I got a burst of burnt oil through the defroster - he said it's inevitable that some oil gets inside the H/Es when they have the drivetrain out. I really thought the smoke was electrical when it happened, but ever since the fried parking light indicator wire, I'm very wary of dash smoke. No blown fuses and I haven't had any further issues, but I'm now keeping a fire extinguisher in the car (loose in the passenger footwell til I figure out where to put it).

I specifically didn't ask my wrench to worry about the IP issues - figured I could handle that. But the list is growing:

• Replace wire from headlight switch to parking light indicator
• Figure out my non-functional high beam indicator
• Handbrake light/flasher no longer works at all - that's a new problem
• Remove speedometer and fix Odometer with PP instructions

Anybody want to host a NoVA spring electrical clinic?

You keep saying "IP". What are you referring to?

Sorry - Instrument Panel

Finally grew a pair and decided to tackle my gauge issues.

To recap, these were the issues:

• Green/white wire to parking light indicator had burned
• Odometer didn't work
• High beam indicator didn't work
• E-brake indicator/flasher quit working recently

The first thing I did was pull out the tach and the speedometer. Left the tach attached to all of its wires, but disconnected the speedometer.

I managed to disassemble the speedo and repair the odometer per the instructions on the Pelican site. A little tricky but now it's done. I believe the true mileage to be somewhere around 130,000 but I ended up with 20000 showing in the Odo, so from now on I'll just add 110K.

When I went to reconnect the speedo, I discovered that the Brown/ground wire had been attached to the parking indicator bulb... meaning that the green/white wire that fried a few months ago had been connected to the grounding attachment. That explains a bit. Reconnected both correctly - green/white wire is taped up where the insulation burned.

I also discovered that the high beam indicator in the tach had a bad bulb socket. I replaced it with a spare bulb socket but it still doesn't work.

The e-brake indicator connector had just come loose, so it's reattached. In short, all my gauge issues are solved except a faulty high beam indicator.

I also have the Fog Flasher kit from JWest - had my kids not woken up from their naps, I would've installed that too. So that carries over to be the next project.