While I had my teener up on ramps today for an ill-fated oil change, I figured I'd take advantage of the photo op and take stock of what I've got. Other than a very dirty drivetrain.

A few things made me go hmmmm... So I'm going to post a few pictures here for comment.

First up:
There's a cable that parallels the clutch cable, and goes to the tail end of the transmission. While the clutch cable passes through the engine mount bar, this one passes below it. And in my case, it's pretty badly chafed at that point, as if it rubbed on a tight break-over on a bump.

Photo #1


Photo #2


Where that cable terminates:

Question #2:
Do the bushings look right? Are they original? Does it look pulled-out just because of the gear the car was in at the time (first), or is it getting ready to fall out?

Question #3

Why the little gap where the case meets the engine?

Anyone for tacos?

Speedometer cable and it's drive unit, at the back of the transmission.
I'd say your shift bushing looks ok, other than being a little dirty.
Mike

#1-that's the speedo cable. looks alot nicer than mine!
#2-how does it shift. No slop, it's ok but I would get a cover on that side shift
#3-to view timing mark (alternate location)

#1 Speedo Cable - pretty common for them to look like that.

#2 Bushing looks like an old one IMO. Do you have the cover for it?

#3 Inspection hole....normal.

Moving up top now...

Question #4.

I've got a feeling that my cooling flaps are permanently open (engine takes a long time to warm up). Possible to tell from this photo? Also, where should I have been looking underneath for the thermostat sender unit?

Whatever number question we're up to now:

Everything look correct here? When the PO removed FI, did they take care of the vestigial wiring correctly?


EDIT: (Ignore my arm and watchband in the upper-right. Had to hold the floppy old insulation, which I'm yet to remove, out of the shot)

Question 7:

I know my Weber progressive is Satan's induction system of choice, but... can anyone tell me how to adjust mixture on this? The long induction runners force me to run rich, but I think I'd like to try leaning it out just a bit.

You don't have your cooling flaps installed! You should fix that. Even if they don't function and are always open, you should have them in there to direct air over the oil cooler.

The thermostat looks like a bellows and sits next to the bottom of the oil pan on the drivers side. You will see two small (m6?) bolts there where it used to be. Looks like the PO totally removed all the flap related stuff.

Your carb sucks, but you know that. I am not sure where the lean adjustment is for that type of carb. But, you should be able to find an idle mix screw below the butterfly for each bore. Turn them in SLOW until the engine sputters, then bring them back out 1/4 turn or so. Don't buy new jets though. Just buy better carbs, or rebuy the needed FI stuff. Going lean could be bad.
Zach

I was afraid of that. Crap. Still confused though: No cooling flaps, missing the seals around the spark plugs (ordered from Pelican), and it takes forever to warm up and always runs cool. Maybe my VDO oil temp gauge isn't working well?

I'd like to get the flaps replaced and functional, since I drive in cool weather and especially with the single carb, it takes forever to warm up.

Not having the flap on the driver's side will not affect cooling, just warm-up. Not having the flap on the passenger's side will make for hot oil temps. It seems likely from your description that the passenger's side flap is fastened in the "full cooling" mode.

--DD

Seems like a very likely explanation IMHO.

These are the only pics I took of that area - any telltale signs here of the cooling flap?




(Yes, I know I need to rip out the insulation!)

might be running cool because of the progressive... they tend to run rich and the gas cools the engine.

definitely don't have flaps tho. there'd be a bar that runs across the engine from where the front shroud meets the 2 big cooling pieces over the heads.

This is the only pic I have showing the bar Wayne's referring to.
Mike

Double check the the old thermostat and thermostat wheel mounting. One of the two is mounted with a "through" bolt. Meaning, if the PO removed all your flaps related stuff and didn't plug those mounting holes, you'll have a big, permanent oil leak.

Which would explain your oily mess ...
Andy

If you took out the flaps and ran an external oil cooler will that work? You would get better oil cooling from a bigger cooler (even more if you had a fan) and you could have the fan open on both passenger and drivers side for maximum head cooling.

Just a thought/question. = )

Eric

OK, silly question...maybe...can you get to the thermostat and flap assemblies WITHOUT dropping the motor and pulling the impeller housing? I want to make sure that this is not the oil leak problem as well but would rather not have to drop the motor again.

If it was me, I would not wrestle with trying to install cooling flaps with the engine in. I think you have to remove the engine tin which requires removing the intake manifold which requires removing the carb...., "while you're in there", install the FI.

If I had an FI I would but all I gots is Delortos! I want a second opinion!!!

Yes and no. You don't have to fully drop the motor. You do have to pull the cooling fan. But you have to think about how you are going to do it. You have to remove the cooling fan and dog house, which requires at least a partial drop. I did it over the summer on my car, so I know it can be done.

First - remove all the tin screws you can get to with the engine in place that attach the side tin to the front tin and the dog house. This task is easier when the car is on the ground. Some screws are under the car, so you will have to wait to get to them.

Put the car as high up as you can get the rear to go. Put a good floor jack under the motor. Remove the front tin at this point. Unbolt the engine bar from the car but not the trans mounts, and slowly lower the engine until you can get to the cooling fan. Pull it. There are now 4 bolts holding on the doghouse, remove them and pull it.

replace your cooling flaps, replace the dog house (have fun with this one! ) and put all the other stuff you pulled back on the car. Once the engine is secured back in the car, it will be easy to install the bellows. One of the bolts is a through bolt, so if the car is full of oil you will want to be quick about it. Fish the control wire up through the hole in the tin, lower the car and attach everything up top.

Zach

Dude, your'e not making this sound easy! Might be easier to just drop the motor again given my limited space to work in!

You said a mouthful right there. Even if your cooling system was fully installed and functioning properly you'll continue to have an issue with that single carb and running in cooler weather.

And I'd drop the motor to install cooling flaps etc... Lots easier.

Time to start saving up.

I think I'll get all the major engine work done at once. Still undecided whether to go with dual HPMX or FI, although I'm leaning toward carbs.... But while the engine is pulled, my first "while you're in there" will be to replace the cooling flaps. Are those parts available? (including thermostat)

I also need a clutch adjustment and valve adjustment.

I will probably farm the work out to either ASG in Annandale or Taylor Chapman. I don't have enough time to do it right and I don't want engine parts and a big yellow paperweight sitting around my carport for months.

Unless, of course, somebody from 914w wants to take my car and get some practice with it in exchange for some sort of timeshare driving arrangement. I buy parts...

Its only worth it if you don't want to have to remove your induction for some reason. in my case it was due to being lazy, and tired of pulling the motor again and again over the summer to fix little problems.

The only hard part was getting the doghouse back on. The flaps like to catch on just about everything.

Zach

You can check both without dropping the motor.

The thermostat and the wire wheel are both mounted on the lower drivers side of the engine, you can get to both from underneath.

One of the two is mounted with a bolt that goes through the case. If they were removed by the PO and not sealed, you'll have a nice oil leak ...
Andy

Sorry, need a little help. PP lists PCG-424-501-01-OEM as "rear shift protection cap". Is that what I need to cover the linkage here?

(They also list 914-424-239-02-OEM as "Transmission Boot, On Rear Shift Protector Cap", but it's NLA.)

Also, just FWIW... at the Potomac PCA Tech insp yesterday at ASG, it was discovered that both my CV boots lack retaining rings. So the CV grease has been flung all over the bottom of the car... that, plus an oil leak accounts for the mess under the car.

Sorry guys, just want to make sure that I get the right part for the shift bushing cover. Little help?

Is this what I need?

Yes, the pictured cover fits over the linkage. Don't know how close to concours ( ) you want to make the car but you could hold the cover on by a stainless steel worm drive clamp that you can get at the local hardware store or go factory clamp when you order the boot cover. The other cover you listed as a rear cover might be the one for a "tail shifter". I don't think the bushing is about to fall out, it's just that it moves in the "cup" for different gears. It was nice to meet you at the tech.

Thanks, Jim. Great meeting you too. And Josh, if you're reading this... your car looks even better in person. Got home from the tech and read your whole build thread.

Figured I'd re-awaken my old thread to share my updates. Pretty much a shameless "pat myself on the back" thread.

Bought the car in September of 2009.

First winter: New clutch & Flywheel, valve adjustment, new shift bushings, clean up & tune up, reinstall MIA cooling flaps & thermostat, replace fuel pump

Second winter: Replace Weber Progressive with dual 40mm EMPI carbs. Replace Master Cylinder after it pissed out all the fluid from the rear brakes circuit. Replaced headlights with H4's. Today I got my sisal mats from Cocomats.com - they look fantastic and could pass for OEM.

Current projects: Stainless rockers are off the car (First time I've had them off, longs look pristine underneath, although I know some of it was reconstructed by a PO), they'll be getting powder coated this week. I'd like to figure out why the radio quit working recently (no fuses appear blown). Carbs need tuning. Odometer hasn't worked as long as I've owned the car and speedo is bouncy - I have a new GEMO speedo cable but I think I might need a new angle drive too.

Other than carbs and Monza exhaust, it's very original mechanically... including narrow tires, brakes, suspension. I'm bringing her to Summit Point in April for the PCA chapter's High Performance Driving Clinic - kind of an intro course. I'm nervous about what mechanical issues could result from pushing hard on the track, but I push pretty hard on twisty roads too... and so far, so good.

And I've managed all of this without owning a set of jackstands! It is the expensive way to go, however...

way to go with all the jobs on your car. Good weather in NOVA will be here soon. If your speedo needle works but your odo doesn't, then the speedo cable and the angle drive are OK. If your odo doesn't work, chances are it's the little plastic gear inside has cracked or split and no longer holds tension on the shaft and can't turn the numbers. Investigate North Hollywood Speedo or Palo Alto Speedo to send gauge for refurbishing.

Have fun at Summit. I've signed up for a Jun 5 weekend and Halloween weekend DE's.

First Potomac PCA tech is coming up Mar 19. Not a requirement for HPDC but you can get your car up on a lift and have a look-see.