Full Version: Thread On Relocating Fuel Pump?
I swear...I searched. Can't get down to less than 53 pages,and none of the first few pages have any pictures. I do remember seeing some thread here...I think...help?
I'm not at home or I would. Just post some pictures and a little how to. What are you having trouble with and where are you relocating to?
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 19 2009, 05:23 PM) 
Relocating Fuel Pump
Why?
QUOTE(SirAndy @ Oct 19 2009, 10:09 PM)
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 19 2009, 05:23 PM)
Relocating Fuel Pump
Why?
This may answer your question:
NPSH = the net (left over) positive pressure of suction force into a pump intake after friction loss has occurred. Liquid head height or liquid head pressure + gravity pressure, minus friction loss, leaves a net head pressure of force into the pump.
The longer the fuel line, before the pump, the more friction loss you have resulting in less net positive suction head.
FourBlades thread: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...&hl=cb+pump
QUOTE(jmill @ Oct 19 2009, 07:23 PM)
This may answer your question:
NPSH = the net (left over) positive pressure of suction force into a pump intake after friction loss has occurred. Liquid head height or liquid head pressure + gravity pressure, minus friction loss, leaves a net head pressure of force into the pump.
The longer the fuel line, before the pump, the more friction loss you have resulting in less net positive suction head.
FourBlades thread: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...&hl=cb+pump
So, in the real world, no 914 with the fuel pump in the rear will ever run again?
My 2056 with CB rotary pump in the rear had plenty of problems.
Delivering fuel was not one of them and neither was "vapor lock" ...
Andy
I didn't say it wouldn't work. I said it would have less NPSH. Which basically leads to a less efficient pump.
QUOTE(jmill @ Oct 19 2009, 07:47 PM)
I didn't say it wouldn't work. I said it would have less NPSH. Which basically leads to a less efficient pump.
Which is how big of a problem?
Gonna pull the tank to replace the sock...figured I'd relocate the pump up there as an improvement? Less heat, and all that jibberish about it being more efficient up there! 
I never had "vapor lock" either on my '74 until I pulled the grade out of Lauglin, NV in about 120 degree heat. After it cooled, it would run for about 20 miles before VL again. Took me 11 hours to make a 4 hour trip.
2nd case involves a car in the desert heat of Las Vegas. Normal running, VL. Car would quit, ccol down, run again. Moved fuel pump to front, mounted just above rack ... never a problem again.
If I were to do it again, I would cut the stock hole like on the '75 - '76, obrtain the bracket, mount and cover for same, and install ... stock location. Under the rack the fuel filter was being rubbed by the rack bellows. Went to an aftermarket smaller diameter filter to alleviate this.
Main problem is loss of fuel pressure in the rail on shutdown. It bleeds off rapidly with a VL fuel pump. Could also be the check valve in the pump going south.
Anyway, SS lines were used for the thru tunnel pressure line. Stock return line left in place.
That's just my opinion.
Oh, and the jibberish about electric roller pumps being better pushers than suckers is very true. Electric roller pumps operate in a flooded suction conditon; they will not pull the fluid to much of a height above the fuel level in the tank (hence booster "in-tank" pumps to feed the roller pump in some cars).
A mechanical or electic diaphram pump is a sucker as it will prime itself above the fuel level (draws a vacuum on the supply line).
2nd case involves a car in the desert heat of Las Vegas. Normal running, VL. Car would quit, ccol down, run again. Moved fuel pump to front, mounted just above rack ... never a problem again.
If I were to do it again, I would cut the stock hole like on the '75 - '76, obrtain the bracket, mount and cover for same, and install ... stock location. Under the rack the fuel filter was being rubbed by the rack bellows. Went to an aftermarket smaller diameter filter to alleviate this.
Main problem is loss of fuel pressure in the rail on shutdown. It bleeds off rapidly with a VL fuel pump. Could also be the check valve in the pump going south.
Anyway, SS lines were used for the thru tunnel pressure line. Stock return line left in place.
That's just my opinion.
Oh, and the jibberish about electric roller pumps being better pushers than suckers is very true. Electric roller pumps operate in a flooded suction conditon; they will not pull the fluid to much of a height above the fuel level in the tank (hence booster "in-tank" pumps to feed the roller pump in some cars).
A mechanical or electic diaphram pump is a sucker as it will prime itself above the fuel level (draws a vacuum on the supply line).
QUOTE(SirAndy @ Oct 19 2009, 10:50 PM)
Which is how big of a problem?
If you looking to maximize the efficiency of your fuel system it's a step backwards. I doubt Ken would run into issues leaving it in the stock location, especially if he went with SS lines. If your on the ragged edge of your fuel system it certainly would help to relocate. It will result in more volume and pressure.
this link isn't necessarily on relocating the pump, but it does show you helpful info. on it's front under tank mounting.
i relocated our 73 to the front mainly because we where doing the center hard lines anyway. AND i live in 100* + weather where vapor lock is an issue. can't hurt, i figure high dollar engineers usually have better reasons than me.
i relocated our 73 to the front mainly because we where doing the center hard lines anyway. AND i live in 100* + weather where vapor lock is an issue. can't hurt, i figure high dollar engineers usually have better reasons than me.
Wherever your pump is located, you need to replace your fuel lines.
Don't even think about pressurizing the stock plastic lines, unless you want to burn your 914 to the ground.
By the way, whey you order your lines, be sure to tell Chris Foley that you are relocating the pump, so that he can assist with line sizing. Otherwise, you'll have one hell of a diameter-adapter headache.
Don't even think about pressurizing the stock plastic lines, unless you want to burn your 914 to the ground.
By the way, whey you order your lines, be sure to tell Chris Foley that you are relocating the pump, so that he can assist with line sizing. Otherwise, you'll have one hell of a diameter-adapter headache.
I chose to put mine in the front trunk as I wanted to have easy access to it if it decided to crap out on me at the track. Ironically, the secnd event I went to I had to replace the pump and it only took 5 minutes because of what I did.
However, it does make the front trunk less usable. I didn't care about that as my car is just for AX but you could do the same as I did and make it more usable.
For the wiring I just ran wire from the possitive wire off the old pump up to the front with a cut off switch in between (safety and theft prevention). Then I ground it off the healight grounds.
eh... still can't find the pictures from when I did it. I know they are here somewhere.
However, it does make the front trunk less usable. I didn't care about that as my car is just for AX but you could do the same as I did and make it more usable.
For the wiring I just ran wire from the possitive wire off the old pump up to the front with a cut off switch in between (safety and theft prevention). Then I ground it off the healight grounds.
eh... still can't find the pictures from when I did it. I know they are here somewhere.
What link? I don't see any link. 
this link isn't necessarily on relocating the pump, but it does show you helpful info. on it's front under tank mounting.
i relocated our 73 to the front mainly because we where doing the center hard lines anyway. AND i live in 100* + weather where vapor lock is an issue. can't hurt, i figure high dollar engineers usually have better reasons than me.
QUOTE(orange914 @ Oct 20 2009, 12:58 AM)
this link isn't necessarily on relocating the pump, but it does show you helpful info. on it's front under tank mounting.
i relocated our 73 to the front mainly because we where doing the center hard lines anyway. AND i live in 100* + weather where vapor lock is an issue. can't hurt, i figure high dollar engineers usually have better reasons than me.
I'm guessing if you have "easy access" you didn't put it under the tank? Mine is a '70 with no access panel, unless I create one. I'd rather have mine outside of the "pit" unless ya'll convince me otherwise.
Where'd you route the (+) wire? Where'd you put your switch?
I chose to put mine in the front trunk as I wanted to have easy access to it if it decided to crap out on me at the track. Ironically, the secnd event I went to I had to replace the pump and it only took 5 minutes because of what I did.
However, it does make the front trunk less usable. I didn't care about that as my car is just for AX but you could do the same as I did and make it more usable.
For the wiring I just ran wire from the possitive wire off the old pump up to the front with a cut off switch in between (safety and theft prevention). Then I ground it off the healight grounds.
eh... still can't find the pictures from when I did it. I know they are here somewhere.
Where'd you route the (+) wire? Where'd you put your switch?
QUOTE(Phoenix 914-6GT @ Oct 20 2009, 06:26 AM)
I chose to put mine in the front trunk as I wanted to have easy access to it if it decided to crap out on me at the track. Ironically, the secnd event I went to I had to replace the pump and it only took 5 minutes because of what I did.
However, it does make the front trunk less usable. I didn't care about that as my car is just for AX but you could do the same as I did and make it more usable.
For the wiring I just ran wire from the possitive wire off the old pump up to the front with a cut off switch in between (safety and theft prevention). Then I ground it off the healight grounds.
eh... still can't find the pictures from when I did it. I know they are here somewhere.
In the 75-76 cars there is a bumped out access panel that the fuel pump attaches to under the gas tank. it makes doing work a snap. Take out 4 screws, and when you pull out the panel that pump pulls out too.
I am using a CB rotary pump, if you are going to stick with carbs, that is what you should get and use as well. You will need to run a + wire to the pump, but that is not a problem.
Just make sure to leave yourself a good service loop of fuel line under the tank so that as you fiddle with the pump you are not stressing the fuel hose. Also makes it 8much* easier pt pull the tank.
In the lower left hand of this pick you can see the black bump out where the later fuel pumps were located. The pic is looking down at my front trunk while fixing 30 years of PO horribleness.
Zach
I am using a CB rotary pump, if you are going to stick with carbs, that is what you should get and use as well. You will need to run a + wire to the pump, but that is not a problem.
Just make sure to leave yourself a good service loop of fuel line under the tank so that as you fiddle with the pump you are not stressing the fuel hose. Also makes it 8much* easier pt pull the tank.
In the lower left hand of this pick you can see the black bump out where the later fuel pumps were located. The pic is looking down at my front trunk while fixing 30 years of PO horribleness.
Zach
The later fuel pumps were in the trunk...not under the fuel tank?
In the 75-76 cars there is a bumped out access panel that the fuel pump attaches to under the gas tank. it makes doing work a snap. Take out 4 screws, and when you pull out the panel that pump pulls out too.
I am using a CB rotary pump, if you are going to stick with carbs, that is what you should get and use as well. You will need to run a + wire to the pump, but that is not a problem.
Just make sure to leave yourself a good service loop of fuel line under the tank so that as you fiddle with the pump you are not stressing the fuel hose. Also makes it 8much* easier pt pull the tank.
In the lower left hand of this pick you can see the black bump out where the later fuel pumps were located. The pic is looking down at my front trunk while fixing 30 years of PO horribleness.
[img][/img]
Zach
QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Oct 20 2009, 08:28 AM)
In the 75-76 cars there is a bumped out access panel that the fuel pump attaches to under the gas tank. it makes doing work a snap. Take out 4 screws, and when you pull out the panel that pump pulls out too.
I am using a CB rotary pump, if you are going to stick with carbs, that is what you should get and use as well. You will need to run a + wire to the pump, but that is not a problem.
Just make sure to leave yourself a good service loop of fuel line under the tank so that as you fiddle with the pump you are not stressing the fuel hose. Also makes it 8much* easier pt pull the tank.
In the lower left hand of this pick you can see the black bump out where the later fuel pumps were located. The pic is looking down at my front trunk while fixing 30 years of PO horribleness.
[img][/img]
Zach
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 20 2009, 04:54 AM)
The later fuel pumps were in the trunk...not under the fuel tank?
That is correct. There is an access hole in the vertical panel (as shown by Zach) and the fuel pump was/is mounted to the cover to the hole and the pump then is in the gas tank compartment, not under the skid plate covering the steering rack.
Just to clarify...I was notcorrect. The pump is under the fuel tank...not in the trunk. It is just accessible through the trunk, right?
The later fuel pumps were in the trunk...not under the fuel tank?
That is correct. There is an access hole in the vertical panel (as shown by Zach) and the fuel pump was/is mounted to the cover to the hole and the pump then is in the gas tank compartment, not under the skid plate covering the steering rack.
QUOTE(type47 @ Oct 20 2009, 09:02 AM)
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 20 2009, 04:54 AM)
The later fuel pumps were in the trunk...not under the fuel tank?
That is correct. There is an access hole in the vertical panel (as shown by Zach) and the fuel pump was/is mounted to the cover to the hole and the pump then is in the gas tank compartment, not under the skid plate covering the steering rack.
??? late fuel pumps are physically in the same space as the gas tank and are accessible through the front trunk where a small panel is located on the vertical wall covering the access hole.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
DAMN! I want that (without doing the needed modification).
BTW...besides the sock, is it just one gasket I need after I remove the feed line?
??? late fuel pumps are physically in the same space as the gas tank and are accessible through the front trunk where a small panel is located on the vertical wall covering the access hole.
Click to view attachment
BTW...besides the sock, is it just one gasket I need after I remove the feed line?
QUOTE(type47 @ Oct 20 2009, 09:29 AM)
??? late fuel pumps are physically in the same space as the gas tank and are accessible through the front trunk where a small panel is located on the vertical wall covering the access hole.
Click to view attachment
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 20 2009, 06:57 AM)
DAMN! I want that (without doing the needed modification).
You could write a check...
Think I'll just leave my pump in the original spot. 
You could write a check...
QUOTE(Gint @ Oct 20 2009, 10:20 AM)
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 20 2009, 06:57 AM)
DAMN! I want that (without doing the needed modification).
You could write a check...
On a scale of 1 - 10, creating the access panel is about a 2, and only a 2 beacuase you have to use power tools.
Just find or buy the cover from someone here or AA or a scrapped 75-76 car, mark your cut, and take the 5 or so minutes that it will take to buzz it out with a sawzall or rotary cutter.
Tank needs to be out, and you want to be sure you don't cut the feeder lines to the master cylinder from the brake fluid res, but it is a REALLY easy improvement.
Zach
Just find or buy the cover from someone here or AA or a scrapped 75-76 car, mark your cut, and take the 5 or so minutes that it will take to buzz it out with a sawzall or rotary cutter.
Tank needs to be out, and you want to be sure you don't cut the feeder lines to the master cylinder from the brake fluid res, but it is a REALLY easy improvement.
Zach
OK...sell me yours.
On a scale of 1 - 10, creating the access panel is about a 2, and only a 2 beacuase you have to use power tools.
Just find or buy the cover from someone here or AA or a scrapped 75-76 car, mark your cut, and take the 5 or so minutes that it will take to buzz it out with a sawzall or rotary cutter.
Tank needs to be out, and you want to be sure you don't cut the feeder lines to the master cylinder from the brake fluid res, but it is a REALLY easy improvement.
Zach
QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Oct 20 2009, 10:56 AM)
On a scale of 1 - 10, creating the access panel is about a 2, and only a 2 beacuase you have to use power tools.
Just find or buy the cover from someone here or AA or a scrapped 75-76 car, mark your cut, and take the 5 or so minutes that it will take to buzz it out with a sawzall or rotary cutter.
Tank needs to be out, and you want to be sure you don't cut the feeder lines to the master cylinder from the brake fluid res, but it is a REALLY easy improvement.
Zach
Hey...if I use the current fuel pump to empty out my gas tank (as opposed to using a siphon) how long will it take to pump out 10 gallons?
13 gallons per hour output .... Check you Haynes manual ....
It will also drain the tank, free discharge, if you disconnect the suction line to the pump.
It will also drain the tank, free discharge, if you disconnect the suction line to the pump.
Just pull the line after the filter no? No need to run the pump.
Yeah...knew that, but then I'm under the car as opposed to just hooking a line up near my carb and filling another car. But, at 13 GPH, guess I'm under that car. Hey...I tried.
Just pull the line after the filter no? No need to run the pump.
QUOTE(tod914 @ Oct 20 2009, 11:46 AM)
Just pull the line after the filter no? No need to run the pump.
Smart idea running it into another car. Certianly beats umteen cans of gas laying around.
Love you too man! 
Smart idea running it into another car. Certianly beats umteen cans of gas laying around.
QUOTE(tod914 @ Oct 20 2009, 08:03 PM)
Smart idea running it into another car. Certianly beats umteen cans of gas laying around.
Just what I did.I'll wait until the tank is out to cut, but do you have any measurements or guidelines as to where it should be? I'm guessing it'll be apparent once I get the tank out.
On a scale of 1 - 10, creating the access panel is about a 2, and only a 2 beacuase you have to use power tools.
Just find or buy the cover from someone here or AA or a scrapped 75-76 car, mark your cut, and take the 5 or so minutes that it will take to buzz it out with a sawzall or rotary cutter.
Tank needs to be out, and you want to be sure you don't cut the feeder lines to the master cylinder from the brake fluid res, but it is a REALLY easy improvement.
Zach
QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Oct 20 2009, 10:56 AM)
On a scale of 1 - 10, creating the access panel is about a 2, and only a 2 beacuase you have to use power tools.
Just find or buy the cover from someone here or AA or a scrapped 75-76 car, mark your cut, and take the 5 or so minutes that it will take to buzz it out with a sawzall or rotary cutter.
Tank needs to be out, and you want to be sure you don't cut the feeder lines to the master cylinder from the brake fluid res, but it is a REALLY easy improvement.
Zach
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 20 2009, 10:14 AM)
OK...sell me yours.
15K and you can drive it home tomorrow. I'd just have to build me a new one.
Zach
Sure...as long as it's not green!
OK...sell me yours.
15K and you can drive it home tomorrow. I'd just have to build me a new one.
Zach
QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Oct 21 2009, 08:42 AM)
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 20 2009, 10:14 AM)
OK...sell me yours.
15K and you can drive it home tomorrow. I'd just have to build me a new one.
Zach
Crap. You found the only chink in my armor. Curse you and your black arrow, Bard of Esgaroth!
Sure...as long as it's not green!
OK...sell me yours.
15K and you can drive it home tomorrow. I'd just have to build me a new one.
Zach
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 21 2009, 08:00 AM)
Sure...as long as it's not green!
QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Oct 21 2009, 08:42 AM)
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 20 2009, 10:14 AM)
OK...sell me yours.
15K and you can drive it home tomorrow. I'd just have to build me a new one.
Zach
Love snails!
Crap. You found the only chink in my armor. Curse you and your black arrow, Bard of Esgaroth!
Sure...as long as it's not green!
OK...sell me yours.
15K and you can drive it home tomorrow. I'd just have to build me a new one.
Zach
QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Oct 21 2009, 09:18 AM)
Crap. You found the only chink in my armor. Curse you and your black arrow, Bard of Esgaroth!
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 21 2009, 08:00 AM)
Sure...as long as it's not green!
QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Oct 21 2009, 08:42 AM)
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 20 2009, 10:14 AM)
OK...sell me yours.
15K and you can drive it home tomorrow. I'd just have to build me a new one.
Zach
Two questions before I proceed:
#1. How (where?) did ya'll run the positive wire when taking it form the original location up to the front? Through the tunnel with the fuel line?
#2. Just got the CB rotary pump and it's included filter. There's about 1" of hose between the pump and the filter. It seems it would be easier to remove the pump and filter if there were more distance between the two. Did you leave the filter that close to the pump or separate them more?
#1. How (where?) did ya'll run the positive wire when taking it form the original location up to the front? Through the tunnel with the fuel line?
#2. Just got the CB rotary pump and it's included filter. There's about 1" of hose between the pump and the filter. It seems it would be easier to remove the pump and filter if there were more distance between the two. Did you leave the filter that close to the pump or separate them more?
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 27 2009, 01:00 PM)
Two questions before I proceed:
#1. How (where?) did ya'll run the positive wire when taking it form the original location up to the front? Through the tunnel with the fuel line?
#2. Just got the CB rotary pump and it's included filter. There's about 1" of hose between the pump and the filter. It seems it would be easier to remove the pump and filter if there were more distance between the two. Did you leave the filter that close to the pump or separate them more?
#1, pick up the wire off #15 on the ignition switch, run it through an in-line 15A fuse to the new position, much easier than trying to reroute the old wire.
#2, I would not separate them, it fits just fine as it is.
#3, prepare next thread re: how to install the SS fuel line
I was kind hoping the enclosed directions were sufficient!
Two questions before I proceed:
#1. How (where?) did ya'll run the positive wire when taking it form the original location up to the front? Through the tunnel with the fuel line?
#2. Just got the CB rotary pump and it's included filter. There's about 1" of hose between the pump and the filter. It seems it would be easier to remove the pump and filter if there were more distance between the two. Did you leave the filter that close to the pump or separate them more?
#1, pick up the wire off #15 on the ignition switch, run it through an in-line 15A fuse to the new position, much easier than trying to reroute the old wire.
#2, I would not separate them, it fits just fine as it is.
#3, prepare next thread re: how to install the SS fuel line
QUOTE(neil30076 @ Oct 27 2009, 04:23 PM)
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 27 2009, 01:00 PM)
Two questions before I proceed:
#1. How (where?) did ya'll run the positive wire when taking it form the original location up to the front? Through the tunnel with the fuel line?
#2. Just got the CB rotary pump and it's included filter. There's about 1" of hose between the pump and the filter. It seems it would be easier to remove the pump and filter if there were more distance between the two. Did you leave the filter that close to the pump or separate them more?
#1, pick up the wire off #15 on the ignition switch, run it through an in-line 15A fuse to the new position, much easier than trying to reroute the old wire.
#2, I would not separate them, it fits just fine as it is.
#3, prepare next thread re: how to install the SS fuel line
The black one!
QUOTE(neil30076 @ Oct 27 2009, 04:23 PM)
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 27 2009, 01:00 PM)
Two questions before I proceed:
#1. How (where?) did ya'll run the positive wire when taking it form the original location up to the front? Through the tunnel with the fuel line?
#2. Just got the CB rotary pump and it's included filter. There's about 1" of hose between the pump and the filter. It seems it would be easier to remove the pump and filter if there were more distance between the two. Did you leave the filter that close to the pump or separate them more?
#1, pick up the wire off #15 on the ignition switch, run it through an in-line 15A fuse to the new position, much easier than trying to reroute the old wire.
#2, I would not separate them, it fits just fine as it is.
#3, prepare next thread re: how to install the SS fuel line
T
Sure, It's the black one on my wiring diagram - should be +12 with the ignition in the run position.
Don't hold your breath on the instructions for the SS line - remove all the access panels for the tunnel, just get your rear ( the car that is) up as high as you can, remove right rear wheel ( passenger side) pull the old lines, and start threading the new line in, takes a few twists and turns, but if you are lucky it'll go through first time, watch you don't get hooked around the clutch or other bits in there. Put the large rubber grommet at the tank end after you have got the line in, your chances of feeding through that are slim!
Good luck.
Neil
Don't hold your breath on the instructions for the SS line - remove all the access panels for the tunnel, just get your rear ( the car that is) up as high as you can, remove right rear wheel ( passenger side) pull the old lines, and start threading the new line in, takes a few twists and turns, but if you are lucky it'll go through first time, watch you don't get hooked around the clutch or other bits in there. Put the large rubber grommet at the tank end after you have got the line in, your chances of feeding through that are slim!
Good luck.
Neil
That's what the instructions from Tangerine say too...really. 
Hey...why is there a clutch in your tunnel?
Sure, It's the black one on my wiring diagram - should be +12 with the ignition in the run position.
Don't hold your breath on the instructions for the SS line - remove all the access panels for the tunnel, just get your rear ( the car that is) up as high as you can, remove right rear wheel ( passenger side) pull the old lines, and start threading the new line in, takes a few twists and turns, but if you are lucky it'll go through first time, watch you don't get hooked around the clutch or other bits in there. Put the large rubber grommet at the tank end after you have got the line in, your chances of feeding through that are slim!
Good luck.
Neil
Hey...why is there a clutch in your tunnel? QUOTE(neil30076 @ Oct 27 2009, 08:02 PM)
Sure, It's the black one on my wiring diagram - should be +12 with the ignition in the run position.
Don't hold your breath on the instructions for the SS line - remove all the access panels for the tunnel, just get your rear ( the car that is) up as high as you can, remove right rear wheel ( passenger side) pull the old lines, and start threading the new line in, takes a few twists and turns, but if you are lucky it'll go through first time, watch you don't get hooked around the clutch or other bits in there. Put the large rubber grommet at the tank end after you have got the line in, your chances of feeding through that are slim!
Good luck.
Neil
Question...on the late model access panel, the mount for the fuel pump is off center. Seems nonsensical to me since you can mount the pump to the bracket atany spot on the pump...it's just a hose type clamp.
Also...suggestions on how best to "kill" the nipple off the tank for the now not needed return line...anything better than simply clamping a bolt in a short piece of fuel line off the nipple?
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Nov 3 2009, 08:25 AM)
Also...suggestions on how best to "kill" the nipple off the tank for the now not needed return line...anything better than simply clamping a bolt in a short piece of fuel line off the nipple?
Just clamp a bolt in a short piece of fuel line ...
(seriously)Actually, the better approach would be to *use* the return line. There's no reason why you can't, in fact, you might gain a thing or two ...
![popcorn[1].gif](http://www.914world.com/bbs2/style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
Andy
Do tell (seriously)...
Also...suggestions on how best to "kill" the nipple off the tank for the now not needed return line...anything better than simply clamping a bolt in a short piece of fuel line off the nipple?
Just clamp a bolt in a short piece of fuel line ... (seriously)
Actually, the better approach would be to *use* the return line. There's no reason why you can't, in fact, you might gain a thing or two ...
Andy
QUOTE(SirAndy @ Nov 3 2009, 01:23 PM)
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Nov 3 2009, 08:25 AM)
Also...suggestions on how best to "kill" the nipple off the tank for the now not needed return line...anything better than simply clamping a bolt in a short piece of fuel line off the nipple?
Just clamp a bolt in a short piece of fuel line ...
(seriously)Actually, the better approach would be to *use* the return line. There's no reason why you can't, in fact, you might gain a thing or two ...
Andy
The way your carbs currently work, they fill the carb bowl, and the ball valve cuts off flow. Because the pump only works at 3psi, it does not have the oomph to overcome the ball valve to flood the carbs.
You can plumb the carbs in such a way that the overflow goes back to the tank, probably by using a regulator. in theory, this might be easier on your pump, as it would not be pumping against zero flow. And it would be helpful to be SURE that you are not flooding your carbs.
I don't do it, personally. Since you have the CD rotary pump (I think you ordered that, right?), you don't need to regulate against overflow and over/under pressure.
Zach
You can plumb the carbs in such a way that the overflow goes back to the tank, probably by using a regulator. in theory, this might be easier on your pump, as it would not be pumping against zero flow. And it would be helpful to be SURE that you are not flooding your carbs.
I don't do it, personally. Since you have the CD rotary pump (I think you ordered that, right?), you don't need to regulate against overflow and over/under pressure.
Zach
I do have the CB rotary (still in the blister pack). My return lie is currently blocked off at the ass end of the car, and there's no problem with flooding at all. Hey Zack...would you respond to my question above about the offset on the access cover pump mounting bracket? Also, since I'm retrofitting an early car to use the access panel, am I correct in assuming the cover is under the carpet? Is the carpet formed to fit over the bump of the cover or does it just not get that effected by it?
The way your carbs currently work, they fill the carb bowl, and the ball valve cuts off flow. Because the pump only works at 3psi, it does not have the oomph to overcome the ball valve to flood the carbs.
You can plumb the carbs in such a way that the overflow goes back to the tank, probably by using a regulator. in theory, this might be easier on your pump, as it would not be pumping against zero flow. And it would be helpful to be SURE that you are not flooding your carbs.
I don't do it, personally. Since you have the CD rotary pump (I think you ordered that, right?), you don't need to regulate against overflow and over/under pressure.
Zach
QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Nov 3 2009, 03:40 PM)
The way your carbs currently work, they fill the carb bowl, and the ball valve cuts off flow. Because the pump only works at 3psi, it does not have the oomph to overcome the ball valve to flood the carbs.
You can plumb the carbs in such a way that the overflow goes back to the tank, probably by using a regulator. in theory, this might be easier on your pump, as it would not be pumping against zero flow. And it would be helpful to be SURE that you are not flooding your carbs.
I don't do it, personally. Since you have the CD rotary pump (I think you ordered that, right?), you don't need to regulate against overflow and over/under pressure.
Zach
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Nov 3 2009, 03:45 PM)
I do have the CB rotary (still in the blister pack). My return lie is currently blocked off at the ass end of the car, and there's no problem with flooding at all. Hey Zack...would you respond to my question above about the offset on the access cover pump mounting bracket? Also, since I'm retrofitting an early car to use the access panel, am I correct in assuming the cover is under the carpet? Is the carpet formed to fit over the bump of the cover or does it just not get that effected by it?
You coming to Joe's tonight? I'm going to take my 914, I think. You can see it in person.
The carpet has a cut out for the pump cover in later cars, I think... I have not put that part of the carpet back in on my car yet. It is meant to be easily reached.
Zach
No...kept waiting for a post back saying it was on, and it never happened...taking the Harley to Fells Point. Ummmmm mussels!
I do have the CB rotary (still in the blister pack). My return lie is currently blocked off at the ass end of the car, and there's no problem with flooding at all. Hey Zack...would you respond to my question above about the offset on the access cover pump mounting bracket? Also, since I'm retrofitting an early car to use the access panel, am I correct in assuming the cover is under the carpet? Is the carpet formed to fit over the bump of the cover or does it just not get that effected by it?
You coming to Joe's tonight? I'm going to take my 914, I think. You can see it in person.
The carpet has a cut out for the pump cover in later cars, I think... I have not put that part of the carpet back in on my car yet. It is meant to be easily reached.
Zach
QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Nov 3 2009, 05:19 PM)
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Nov 3 2009, 03:45 PM)
I do have the CB rotary (still in the blister pack). My return lie is currently blocked off at the ass end of the car, and there's no problem with flooding at all. Hey Zack...would you respond to my question above about the offset on the access cover pump mounting bracket? Also, since I'm retrofitting an early car to use the access panel, am I correct in assuming the cover is under the carpet? Is the carpet formed to fit over the bump of the cover or does it just not get that effected by it?
You coming to Joe's tonight? I'm going to take my 914, I think. You can see it in person.
The carpet has a cut out for the pump cover in later cars, I think... I have not put that part of the carpet back in on my car yet. It is meant to be easily reached.
Zach
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.