These things have been around for a long time. VW guys have been using them forever. Advanages being you can see the junk thru the glass and you can clean and reuse them. They are cheap at about $8.00.

Down side is they are glass and can break. IIRC they are not SCCA legal for this reason. If you use them do you install them in the engine compartment where it is less likely to be hit by a rock and break. But when they do break they allow gas to cover the engine. Or do you mount them up under the engine shelf out of the way so when they break they dump gas on the road? Has anyone ever heard of one breaking?

I have one for my street car and don't know if I should install it or get a typical OEM plastic/steel body one from my FLAPS.

What say you???

I wouldn't install one of these on a person's car I didn't like. . . These are the source of many car fires. I would just use the stock non-see-through filters. Use a sharpie to date them and then change them yearly.

I would not use one on my lawn mower let alone a Porsche.

Not to mention they're just not good enough for FI applications ..................

The Cap'n

Duel Weber installation here.

I won't use a plastic body one in the engine compartment at anytime.

they have clear plastic ones, too... I don't like the glass ones... at all.

I use a clear plastic one.

Mounted where?

From THESAMBA.com

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic...ass+fuel+filter

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic...ass+fuel+filter

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic...ass+fuel+filter

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic...ass+fuel+filter

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic...ass+fuel+filter

Glass and plastic are crap.plastic can melt and leak. glass can break and leak..I have removed more of those pieces of crap than i care to recall....metal large cannister filters are the least expensive to use, and are readly available at most all parts places/autozone/napa/etc. and have various inlet and outlet sizes to suit your particular fuel line size.

From reading all the replys on Samba (there were more than the ones I linked) it seems tha glass ones can come loose and unscrew. I'll go with a steel housing and mount it up front just after the tank.

GREAT...smart move. BTW I forgot ...the filter elements in those metal fuel filters WILL TRAP WATER...maybe not all of it but some, they are cheap enough to replace often...keeping water out of the weber float boals, which are not drainable unless removed.PIAsssssss.

I got an all aluminium one with a stone filter that can be washed.
It has worked for many years and its simple to vice grip the hoses, unscrew the unit, pull out the stone and blow it out with carb cleaner once per year...works fine and does not leak.

It was a no name unit I got at a local race shop...nice unit.

Rich

I installed a standard metal cased filter up front between the tank and the front mounted fuel pump. I also installed another steel cased fuel filter in the engine compartment next to the battery. Should be plenty to keep my Webers clean on the 3.0.

Nay!!

Jaxdream

Nay. I use a metal can type.

I agree about the glass type...not good...Rick, where did you get the metal can type filters? Do you have any pics of what they look like?

I went to three FLAPS today looking for fuel filters on the shelves. Seems FLAPS doesn't display them next to the oil and air filters like they used to. If I was to ask the numbnuts at the counter he would only be able to look up by model/year on the 'puter. I went to Wal-Mart and they had three Fram steel can types, so I picked one up. $8.49. About 1 1/2" in diameter.

This work is a result of me driving my car to work everyday this week and having it run like shit by the end of the day. Every night I've cleaned out the idle jets and found them blocked with crap. Today I took the day off and pulled the gas tank out and drained it. Found a good bit of sediment in the filter sock.

And the hose between the tank and the fuel line in the tunnel? It was crap also.
An accident waiting to happen...

Now I have a clean tank, new hoses, and new filter. It also didn't have a fuel pressure regulater so I added one. I'll finish the install tomorrow a.m.

I've beed using one made by Russell (AN fittings) in conjunction with SS braided lines for 10-12 years. It's clear but I'm can't tell if it's glass or plastic tho I think it's the fromer. Mounted on the rear firewall. I clean it ever couple years. No leaks or breakage. I have no carb issues either. Ain't I lucky.

YES

Please show pictures...getting ready to do this next week. Converting my '70 to pump-up-front with an access panel off of a late model too.

I would also recommend ditching those clamps you were using and switch to either of these since these styles won't cut into the hose and cause leaks. . .

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

Confused (not the first time)...how are his clamps different form the second one in your recommended example?

Hi Brian the front fuel filter came with the CB Performance rotary fuel pump but it's a standard looking fuel filter can. The one I installed in the engine compartment is a Purolator # 54618. It's a standard can but comes in/on a mounting plate. This size with the plate fit perfect next to my battery and bolted to a plate near the battery towards the rear. Not sure what OEM part normally bolted on there.

I ran those things on my Karmann Ghia and my wife's bug for over 10 years with no problems.

Of course, the country of manufacture AND quality has probably changed by now......

I think he means use the first one (FI style clamp) and not the second one, which will cut into the hose.

I use a small Ford carburetor fuel filter in front of the FI pump. This is on the suction side of the pump, so it never receives any high pressure. I found one that has the same size fitting as the large line on the tank, and the other side is a threaded pipe fitting. I hook a barb that has the same size fitting as the pump to it. That keeps the crap out of the pump. I did this because the sock in the tank had disintegrated, and when I checked they were NLA.


On the pressure side of the FI pump, before the injectors, I put in a filter from a Fuel Injected Nissan. It is quite capable of handling over 60 psi, and has the proper size fittings on both the inlet and the outlet to insert inline inside the engine compartment.


I don't remember the part number on the Ford filter, but it is a common one. I pull the old one and go buy a new one.

The inline filter was the same one used on my 87 Nissan Pulsar.

That would make sense, but he said "I would also recommend ditching those clamps you were using and switch to either of these since these styles won't cut into the hose and cause leaks. . ."

The fuel tanks socks are definitely available...got one today from AA.

I am hoping that the 2 clamps shown are OK to use as a VW mechanic installed the second one on an engine of mine. I think the clamp to avoid is the common hose clamp that you buy at Home Depot/Lowes/Ace where there are slots in the band which can cut the hose and therefore cause leaks, although, on second thought, one of the clamps pictured would seem to do the same. Factory FI clamps even have a slight upturned edge

I have changed all the rubber hoses, the fuel filter, and added a pressure regulator. Today I completed it all. Drove it and it still backfires thru the left side carb when I'm running steady in 3rd gear at 2500 rpm . Tried adjusting the idle screw all the way in and out on both throats and it nearly died so jets are not clogged.

I need to check to see if they are syn'd properly.

You might have an intake leak. Does it idle smooth after about 20 seconds of being at idle. Mine didn't idle smooth, it used to stumble, turns out I had an intake leak on one of the intakes that caused a popping while crusing on the expressway.

I'll check again but I've snuged things down pretty tight.

I've always run a BMW metal cannister filter that's the size of a Fosters beer can. I mount a bicycle water bottle cage to hold it.

T.C.

Paul, I thought your car sounded a little rough leaving the other day.

My 66 Chevy Pickup had one (still does today-) for 30 years and no problems but the concern is justified.
In the engine compartment hanging over a 160+degree engine and
too many parts to spark like the HiAmp starter a foot away,
does not seems wise.
Even if I have had no issues ...yet.
A pool of gas under the car -anywhere-
could be a disastrous end to you and yours.
For those old gas water heater garages- it really could be. Even just a crack.
I like them myself and they function. But they function at too much a risk for me on this car but would gladly have a clear plastic version. Relocated of course.
Good luck-

I have a large metal Canton filter up front and a metal inline filter (forgot the brand) in the engine compartment near the regulator and pressure gauge - both AN-6 screw-on types. The glass scares the crap out of me and plastic almost as much, knowing how a lot of people tend to neglect inspecting/replacing such things on their cars. Present company excepted, of course.

..(.assumption the carburators are perfectly adjusted , inc. all linkages) float levels and float needle are perfect and not "hanging up"(or down) . THEN, well maybe....remove carbs and dump out the accumulated WATER., drain, fuel in tank check for WATER.. install NEW fuel filters .AND/ OR...valves need adjusting , broken valve spring, bent valve(s). head needs valve job.etc..Look for the reason the intake charge is reversing during the firing cycle.("BLOWING BACK"). Too early ignition timing can also be a problem.worn or bouncing points.loose wiring , breaker plate or points, in distributor...misreading the T.D.C....

I ran a CR glass filter for years without any problem. The reason I got that one is you could put a 3/8" barb on one side and a 5/16" on the output side. At the time (1984) it was the only decent looking aftermarket fuel filter at my FLAPS.

I wouldn't use one today though, as CR probably has them made in China, and you can get all kinds of metal canister filters.

Sorry. It's probably hard to tell from the second photo, but the second clamp is actually a "stamped" clamp meaning there are no holes in the clamp to cut through the hose. whereas the clamps on his hose use slots cut into the band for the worm gear to grab hold of as it tightens. This allows the edges of the clamp to grab the rubber and cut into it as it tightens. Not right away but over a few months the clamp will cut in and become loose causing possible leaks under the tank. That's not an issue on the stamped type or the band type.

Sorry for the confusion. . .

I was laid off from my job this afternoon. I have plenty of time now to look for the problem

Thanks!

I love not working!

Not working will be great. Not getting paid will be a bitch.

that sucks man, I'm sorry to hear that.

I am in my 8th month of unemployment. It sucks when you are used to getting up and going to work.

It also makes you feel like a real loser......



Keep looking. You will find something.

I think I found the real problem this afternoon. The car was still running like shit with the left side carb back popping and I couldn't get it to idle properly.

I was thinking it must be a air leak but everything was tight. I took some carb cleaner and sprayed it at the manifold to cylinder head gasket right between the two barrels, where the single stud is. The engine raced up the RPM. I found it! So I tighten down the nut on the stud. Spray it again and get the same result. Engine races. WTF?

I look at the studs and notice the center stud has twice has much sticking out from the nut than the other two. The others have about 5 threads showing and the center one has 10-12 threads showing. I pull the carb and manifold off the head and the center stud is not the same as the others. It has a non threaded shoulder that is keeping it from threading into the head. The manifold has a thin base on it. When the manifold is installed over this stud, the nut contacts the shoulder before it is able to tighten the manifold base to the head. The nut is tight but not the manifold.

I double nutted the stud and backed it out. It came out with ease. I replaced it with a bolt and tightened down. The manifold is tight to the head now. I fired it up and drove it around the block. It drove like a new car...

Doesn't that shit feel great!