Ok...remember the mystery, effed up, crappy looking fuel pump from my other thread(s)? If not, see the picture below. Turns out it was a Mitsubishi?
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OK...the power wire..what to do. The photo below shows where the power wire to the fuel pump is coming from. The ground was simply a wire bolted to the firewall. There are two black wires coming out of that bundle where the arrow is pointing. Both are black. One has been cut off and the other went to the power terminal on the fuel pump. The easiest thing for me is to just tie onto that wire and route it back up the tunnel to the front where my new pump will be...I can pull it through when I pull the old, unneeded fuel return line through. Where does that wire start from? If it's already up front somewhere, that might be even easier. Thoughts?
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Good question Ken. I think you can use switched power from somewhere up front and the later cars just use a ground lug on the body but the later cars power up the fuel pump and then shut down the pump after a few seconds... Switched power will probably just run the pump as long as the key is on. Some cars also have a switch that shuts of the pump if the car flips over too. jcd914 will know, as will the Cap'n, McMark if he were on the forum instead of touring the UK...

Check out a wire diagram to see where the + wire is routed. I forget if it comes through the engine bay relay board, or from the fuse box in the cabin.

Wherever it comes from, just pull the wire, and route a new one to the front trunk following the course of the existing forward wire harness. The "-" wire will go to any available ground point. Make sure to leave enough of a service loop to pull out and replace the pump. This should only be a 2 wire fix.

Zach

Thanks Rob...nice rack too.

Already looked at the schematic, and it shows a black/red wire going to the pump from the relay board. Since the car has been changed over from FI to carb, not sure how that effected the way the PO wired the fuel pump. Plus...it's now a black instead of a black/red. Guess I'll just be safe (since it worked) and route that black wire up front.

Real tempted to see if I can persuade a local 914 nut with welding gear to come over and "solid" up my car while the fuel is outta the way!

The gm cars I am familiar with use a second positive feed from the oil pressure switch to make the pump run after it goes into run mode from start mode, that way if the motor quits the fuel pump quits. If you just extend the wire I would use a relay that the wire closes and the relay contacts handle the power to the pump to avoid any supply current problems from to long wire run.

Anybody wanna explain this to my electro-moronic self? First off...is it really needed? I think others here have run the wire up front (maybe 8' ?) with no problem. I really want to avoid an extra connections (things to go wrong)...that's why MIGs fly and F-16s sit on the tarmac.

So...tank is out and looks pristine inside except for one spot. Also a few flecks of crap can be seen in the second shot down in the well. Can I just wash it out with water, and let it dry? Leave it alone? Do I need to coat the tank or just maybe that low spot that has rusted? This is a driver that I want to get ten years out of...not a full on resto. I don't wanna put her back together to fail, but also don't want to get too crazy about every item.
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Filler neck...is that breather supposed to be crimped or should I open it up?
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The old sock.
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Under tank shots. The fuel line was rubber from end to end...no plastic line evident at either end. The one pad created some mild surface rust on the outside of the tank...plan to grind and POR-15.
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That's the way both my cars are as shown in the pic

Thanks...good enough for me.

What gauge wire do ya'll suggest for the fuel pump's power wire?

Plumbing the fuel dilemma...My fuel tank nipple is 3/8" (actually 9mm), as is my new stainless steel tunnel line (Tangerine Racing). I have a Tangerine adapter to connect the SS line to my Weber fuel lines (5/16").

The problem is putting the CB rotary fuel pump in between the 3/8" tank nipple and the 3/8" tunnel line...it has 5/16" connections as does the included filter. If I could find a filter with 3/8" intake and 5/16" output, I'd be good to go at that end of things. I can do that with one of those glass filters that has interchangeable plastic ends (the glass and the plastic scare me). I found one Chinese filter that says on the package "Fits 3/8" and 5/16". I can't figure out if it's 11/32...a compromise size, or just counts on the small flanging at either end to compensate. Even at that, I hear Chinese filters (like toothpaste and dog food and toys) are suspect. Another option (flame away) is to use the 3/8" hose on the 5/16" ends and just clamp a little tighter (I know...I won't do it). The other option is to throw in two more of Tangerine's adapters, but that leaves me with about 1,683 hose clamps in that Rube Goldberg contraption.

Help!

The filter that "fits both 3/8" and 5/16" probably has fittings like on a caulk tube, where you trim the end to make the opening bigger, ie. you cut off the 5/16" fitting and still have a 3/8" fitting. Sounds like a good choice. I also wouldn't be afraid of the glass filter with threaded ends.

The first one you refer to simply had metal flared ends that I couldn't measure as it was in a blister pack...the ends were not to be trimmed or modified that I could see. I did but the glass tube with interchangeable threaded ends. Will still need an adapter to go from the pump end (5/16") to that 3/8" SS tunnel line, so I just placed another order with TANGERINE RACING...a great bit of American free enterprise!!! As soon as I get some metal repair finished up here, I'll install all those pieces. Oh yeah...also gotta wait for that adapter.

Am I correct about fuel pump placement? Pretty sure, but want input before I start cutting up my baby.
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Here's a picture of the stock location I took off another thread some time ago..

Also, Pelican has a tech article on this project. Pelican article

Great shot...thanks!

Thanks

Tried to feed the SS line through the tunnel a coupla times just now with no luck. Seems to be hitting the shifter, or linkage somewhere as the linkage is movingwhen I hit the blockage. Do I need to take the linkage apart? I'm working by myself which makes it harder. Also found its a good idea to tape over the little nipple Chris uts on the end of the line to keep it on and crap out of the line.

Ken, no need to take linkage apart - remove the linkage access plates and the panel up front by the pedals. You need to get the back of the car high up, get under the drivers side and start the SS line into the tunnel. As it gets about 12 inches into the tunnel go back inside and make sure it is moving along the wall on the passenger side. Then its a case of push some - twist a bit -- check inside,and push again -
Good luck

Linkage access plates? I removed the one in the very rear of the tunnel and the one at the very front. The only other panel on a 1970 is the shifter. Why does height matter? Why does driver's side work any differently than passenger side when you're just pushing the line from rear to front? I have her on the lowest setting on my 12" jackstands and was working from the passenger side.

Just telling you how i did it - in 20 minutes You have removed the panels i was refering to - if the pipe was straight you would be correct, but it ain't, and you only have a small space to thread it through.
Remember - I'm British, so what i write may need a little translation

What would I be correct about if it were straight? I can't understand how height would matter...maybe it's because I'm doing something wrong. When I have the line in a few feet, the part that's still outside is hard up against the engine support bar. Did you insert it so the bent end was pointing more to the left or right? Also...even with in inserted a few feet, I can't see or feel it through that rear access panel...too far way from the right side. When it did hang up after a foot or so, I was able to "persuade" it to go farther...almost like snaking a trap on a sink, but I didn't want to apply too much pressure. I'll try again tomorrow.

ken, do you have my phone number - give me a call -

Because the drivers side of the tunnel is occupied by the shift rod, the clutch tube and the accel cable tube.

The passenger side was occupied by the old fuel lines.

There's a bracket inside the tunnel about 8" (or so) from the rear firewall. You may need to fiddle with the lines a bit to clear that.

Andy

PS: Tip of the day! With the lines out, put a flashlight at the exit in the front and look through the holes in the back. You'll be able to see how to route the lines without hitting schtuff ...

So...when I'm on the passenger side and think I'm pushing straight forward I may not be? I got way beyond 8" (doesn't my girlfriend wish!) when I had trouble...probably 2-3 feet! Whatever I was hitting was making the shift linkage move (obviously hitting the shift linkage). I'll have to try your hint, but it may not be so easy with the engine in place (or is it?).

Neil,

Just dialed the number you gave me back on August 25th and the recording said it was a non working number...go see if they've turned your lights off as well.

No. I've never done the fuel lines with the engine in the car.

It's soooooooo much easier if you just get the engine out of the way ...
Andy

Got it...good talking to you mate!

Life's been easier after the divorce too, but the time and expense...don't wanna do THAT ever again either...the engine stays in.

I see a lot of cussing in your future ...

Fuck you you damn shit eating psychic!

Would have been easier with the engine out, but not so much easier as to warrant pulling the engine!

This will only make sense to those who have done this, but here goes. In order to gain rear entry (I had to buy her dinner?) the "bend" had to go first towards the driver side. The engine, and mounting bar then prevented me from making the needed 180º turn until I had only a foot left and could use the forward access hole to turn the damn thing. All the way up to that point, the end was pressed pretty hard against the driver's side of the tunnel, and eventually lodged itself into the throttle linkage. At that point I could get a hand on it, and free it enough for the needed 180º turn toward it's final resting hole. Phewwwww...I need a cigarette.

Nice work Ken, you are almost there - driving this weekend maybe

Neil,

Good talking to you on the phone last night...helped and was fun too...thanks. No driving this weekend, as I still have to get my welding guy over here to fix those two holes and weld in my new triangle. Also need to cut the access hole up front for the new fuel pump, and plumb the whole thing. Wanna do some POR15 in the tank well area, and repaint the outside of the tank..been raining here in Bawlmer for about 4 days, unlike San Diego I'm sure. I'll post pics as I go along.

Created a separate thread to show the access panel work. Pretty much completed that chore.

OK...I'm minutes away from firing her up and seeing if there are any leaks amongst those 14 hose clamps, but I have a problem with the "plumbing" under the tank. The line form the pump to the tunnel is fine, but the line from the tank to the pump isn't gonna work. It's just the right length (the wrong length actually) that it's gonna kink when I lower the tank. I either need to shorten it quite a bit, or lengthen it a lot...to create a situation where it coils up I'm guessing. What have ya'll experienced with this?

Never mind...figured it out. Just needed to swivel the nipple outward (towards the right fender) so the line would make a nice loop back to the filter/pump. SHE LIVES!