I am finally going to put the new rotors on the front and rear. Want to have brakes functioning by this weekend. I am putting new bearings in the front and was wondering what grease you should use (seems everything is SPECIAL on these cars), is high temp grease ok? And do these bearings install like every other front disc or is there a special trick? I' done many chevy's in the past. It looks the same.

Same. high temp is fine. Uses a std roller bearing setup.

Fairly easy job. Make sure you clean everything and inspect the spindle for wear.

It's a two bearing setup, one is pressed into the hub, the second one is held in place by the big washer and nut on the outside.
Getting the old bearing out of the hub can be a pain. Be careful not to scratch the hub surface.

The big washer should just barely move (use a flat-blade screwdriver) when the nut is tight.
I like to tighten the nut by hand, then use a screwdriver in the slot to give it a "whack" by hand. That usually gets the nut right where it needs to be.

Andy

I won't be removing the old bearings, I am starting with all new parts with the exception of the nut and washer. Thanks for the responses.

Huh? taper roller bearings both inner and outer? Just the seal holds the inner in.

Ooops, i was talking about the 5-lug setup. Should have mentioned that, i guess ...
Andy

Yeah, my bad. Its a four lug. Still great advise. Seals are new as well. Time to get started.

Well, it is Monday. 6 cups of coffee and I'm still foggy.

Have the rotor warm and the race cold. Works much easier. Tried this in a cold garage in January. Works for a Chevy. Wasn't happening with a Porsche. Tolerances must be a bit tighter then your run of the mill Chevy.

Thats cause a Chevy won't stay running long enough to worry about the front wheel bearings.

it's an easy job, but packing bearings by hand blows.

get a bearing packer from your local FLAPS. costs about $12 and will pack the bearings in about a minute, no mess. I usually stand on it lightly and it's done, fast and easy.

Bearing packer mee like! I will get that. No mess is best. I will bring the rotors inside to warm up and leave the races out in the garage. Thanks for all the help!!

it was one of those things I saw, and thought, "I bet that will NEVER work!" but for $12, I decided to try it. BAM, the thing fucking rocked!

there was 2, one was cheap, and had no outside "bucket" you just hooked a greas gun up and it squirted... so it would still be messy. the other had a small cup you put grease in, and when you stand on it, or just push hard, it sucks grease up, and into the bearings, this is the type I bought and have used it several times on my teener and other cars.

I've used several auto-packers and nothing is as fast and easy as using your hands as long as you use nitrile gloves as well.

Put a small glob of grease in the palm of one gloved hand and scoop the grease into the cage with the other gloved hand. When you're done take the gloves off inside out and you won't have much of a cleanup to do at all.

Cleaning everything up first is messier, but the gloves help with that too.

~$10 per 100pr at Sam's/Costco etc. A little more elsewhere. But I can't imagine 914 work without them.

Well I am ready to put everything together in the new rotors before removing the old ones, and the seals are not with the bearings any longer. I bought these parts 2 years ago and thought I put them in the same box. I now will either tear my cabinets apart to find them or source them out again. Oh well. I was able to sell my progresive carb setup today.

Seals are available at Kragens believe it or not.
http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductList.as...l+Seal%2c+Front

Thanks, went to Kragens, paid for the seals, did a will call at a location 3 miles away, got them for $3. each. Cheaper than the first set and better qualityas well. Now I will attempt to start again!

Just wanted to say thanks for the support! Here is the finished product with your help! I also put in a picture for conedodger.