Anyone have a work around for a AAR? Mine is sitting upside down in penetrating oil as I hope and pray that the cylinder becomes unstuck. In the meantime, has anyone successfully grafted another AAR device? My 1973 1.7L needs a little help when she's cold.

As I research the subject I see where Bosch made a bunch of FI systems for various auto manufacturers around the world, and I cannot help but think one of those bits would do the job my 0280-014-007 does when healthy?

There are replacement units available for $150 or so. You can always use the heel and toe method for the first few minutes of driving.

You could replace the AAR with a 1/4 plumbing valve and rig a choke cable up to it. Pull it out at cold start up, push it closed as the engine warms. Or just replace it with a new one.

Yeah, doing that now, the "heel 'n toe" thing. I am not fond of the idea of increasing AA's sales revenues without a "fight". It was and is a poor design to begin with, IMHO. However, my next step will be to cut the top off and clean it up. The heater and lead are working fine, it's just the cylinder that is stuck open.

Post a WTB in the classifieds. They can't be that expensive.

As for other AARs, don't they all work the same? They get 12v and after a minute or two, they close, right? My D-Jet AAR was stuck. I eventually freed it up but if it didn't work, I was going to use an L-Jet AAR.

I was thinking along those lines as well. It seems a simple, if inelegant, solution. Manually operated chokes worked just fine for the first 60+ years of automobile history. If I cannot get the cylinder on my AAR to un-stick, and if cutting it open and performing surgery doesn't pan out, then I may opt for the manual choke system.

Or, just pony up the $150 clams, but where's the fun in that?

Thanks for the thoughts!
Bill

You have it correct, Cevan, as far as I follow the theory. My heating coil and lead wire are fine, and work, but the cylinder is frozen open from rust and gunk. I would bet a meal at a drive-up window that just about any Bosch AAR would work if the plumbing was correct.

I am not squeamish about experimentation, but prefer to stay off the bleeding edge when I can learn from someone else's experience.

VW used L-Jet type AAR's on their cars for a long time. Grab a couple from old golfs and try them out. The connections are different from the D-Jet but they seem to work the same.

It is possible to open up the can and disassemble the AAR. Take your time prying the can open so you can close it nicely!

Bill,
Come to the Sacramento Porsche Family Reunion Sunday. Jim Dupree may have a spare he could sell and at the very least, he can talk you through a workaround.

I wonder if one of these would work? Anyone tried it?

aar

AAR's can be found at 914 Swap Meets from my experience and many of us have a spare hanging around from past projects. Put a WTB ad in the classifieds.

To test, look through the AAR at ambient temp, mine is 1/2 - 1/3 open. Connect to a nine volt battery ( easy to carry ) and see if the window inside the AAR closes in a minute or so. Mine closes in 1 1/2 min

Stuck AARs can be fixed, I once used PB blaster to free one up.

Good luck.

VW tried it, but only for 10 years, so I'm not sure they determined whether it'll work or not. The Cap'n

You could use a 12vdc solenoid to open a vac. line. Grainger has them for 25 bucks. would be open or closed though, nothing in between.

So, if I plug the hot lead to my Djet AAR into one of these it will work as expected? Care to expand on your comment?

blitz, those are the AAR's that I was talking about. They look the same as the LJet ones on 914's and VW Buses. I am sure the closing time is different but the function should be the same. One lead is ground and the other power. As far as I can tell it doesn't matter which. Plenty of used ones in the junkyard off of older VW Golfs.

Looking a bit farther, you could get an AAR and the mounting bracket from a '76-'79 Bus and you'd have a bolt in ...................Get the connector and about 6" of wire while you're there.

The Cap'n

I have an AAR out of an early (83-85.5) on my 73 2.0 work's great. I think it was like $5 at the boneyard!

There have been threads on here in the past on how to fix the 914 AAR.

If memory serves, the person cut it open and reconnected the wire inside, worked great after.

it's common for them to stop working. Mine stopped and the car ran like crap for a while, backfiring and hesitating until the engine compartmant warmed up enough to close it.

I live in the Northeast.
It was in the 30's this morning.
I have NO AAR and NO cold start injection.

Car starts fine.
Idle the car for less than a minute...enough time to close the barn door.
Drove to work...no stutter, no stumble.

When it gets down to less than 20 degrees, I need to warm it up for a minute, maybe a bit more.

I drive to the end of the road in third gear, about a mile.
Heat is nice and hot, car runs great.

I also tune my car up frequently and mess with the points and timing frequently...and adjust my valves frequently.
Rich

Yeah, I was noodling through that idea myself...could you put a potentiometer in the circuit and control travel of the valve piston on a solenoid air valve? Control the POT from inside the car...no cables needed?

Just getting a AAR for a 924 is probably the easiest, but not as much fun.

Rich, thanks...its maybe 44 here in Northern California, but you know our reputation for being squishy. I have upped the RPMs via the idle screw when the car was warm, and we'll see what effect that has when cold. That may take care of it.

Take a look at Brad Anders' site. It will really help with understanding how this system works and what components can be interchanged. You can't just get any old AAR.

No, in a nutshell. A solenoid by nature is open or closed. Variable voltage would only make it start to get hot, then as the voltage increased to the minimal coil voltage, it would just trigger. You can get a servo valve, but it would cost way to much. You possibly could hook up a small RC servo as a variable idle stop, using a pot or even a small servo driver board. Or use one to open a ball valve, as long as it wasn't a stiff one. Lots of ideas, not a lot of time.

So, have we decided on a decen alternative, with a car model and part number???

a Decision.......

You are talking to a bunch of guys that cant even decide what weekend to get together some days...and then many flake out.

Hearding pigs or cats may be easier than getting a collective decision from this group.

rich

Just don't mention "four or six?"...

lmao

Its amazing how much energy is spent on a part that is still available...no need to reinvent anything.

Here is one source...

http://bowlsby.net/914/PartsFS/

Just get the right part and do it right...