So, I tried researching threads on the Kerry Hunter Header system to figure this out for myself, but no such luck. I just recently installed a set of Kerry Hunter's and have toasted one clutch cable and am possibly on the verge of doing it again to another one. The first one I ruined was from improper routing which caused an unnecessary kink where the cable comes out to go around the plastic wheel in the rearward area of the transmission. I ran the new cable what I thought was the right way, but it still seems like something is wrong because I'm melting my outer lining on my cable. I wrapped the headers in heat wrap to try and allow the cable to run through cylinders 4 and 3's header. It seemed like it was working but I just took a look at it yesterday and it definitely appears to be slightly melting the outer coating on the cable. I was told that wrapping the cable itself in heat wrap is worse because it traps the heat inside and melts the cable even faster. So... What do I do? There appears to be a kink in cylinder 4's header that seems like it would only be there to allow the clutch cable to run through, but I'm not entirely sure. The new cable I bought is a heavier duty cable that allows a bit more flexing than my previous one so it MIGHT be possible to run it under the headers, but that was how I ran it the first time and it shredded the not-so-heavy-duty previous cable. Any advice would be great as I would like to avoid replacing this cable again, if possible. Please let me know Thanks
-Chris

CFR makes a clutch cable bracket that routes the cable above the headers. Don't think it is listed on the site but send Racer Chris a PM. There was a recent thread w/ pics but I could not find it.


Good Luck

KP

Do you have a pic of your setup?
Andy

Thanks Ken!
Tangerine Racing Clutch Pulley Adapter

I was a cheap bastard and went to Home Depot (I know, blasphemy) and bought a piece of 2x2 angle iron and cut, drilled, and ground it down to do the put the pulley horizontal. Easy enough with a bench grinder, hacksaw, and a decent drill bit. I did that, and then cut a piece of ceramic aircraft grade heat shield, and safety wired the cables to the push rod tubes to keep it out of the way. Be sure to have an air gap to everything though. I have about one inch air gap for cooling and the pushrod tubes don't get hot enough to cause any problems due to the downdraft of cooling air over the cylinders.

I recommend against attaching anything directly to the pushrod tubes. Pressure on them will compromise the o-rings at the ends and create oil leaks.

Would having the headers Jet Hot coated help in lowering temps near the cable and/or using header wrap near the cable?

The coating is good for a couple hundred degrees of surface temp.
That plus a reflective wrap on the cable is good enough at 1 1/2"-2" of space between.
Header wrap is more effective as a heat barrier but not so good on the header, as it promotes rust.

I dont know if you can really see it here but herb tilted it down and added a small strap on teh leading bolt

Great info, thanks guys! I'll have pics within the next hour once my camera is done charging. I think the tilting downwards way might work better, for the KH system at least. I don't have much room above the headers to run the cable over and I think with some heat shield and it running only below one header, everything should be ok. Let me know. Thanks
-Chris

Also, does that pulley plate just unbolt from the transmission? I've never noticed any nuts or anything on the plate before, but I've also never been looking for them.

Yes, two 13mm nuts hold it to tranny case. Prolly covered in oil, dirt, tranny fluid or a combination of all.

KP

yeah pretty much all three! I'm going out to check it out and take pics now and will post when I come back inside. Thanks
-Chris

I like the part where the safety wire saws through the pushrod tube. And it WILL happen, sooner than you might imagine.

The Cap'n

That's odd. I've had to pull the safety wire off once already to grind on the clutch bracket a little more (reposition it) and there was absoltely no evidence of chaffing even on the painted surface of the tube. it's not moving anywhere, so I don't see how it could "saw" through the tube.

capt crunch is no ding bat. be mindfull of his warning

Cool product Chris, I hadn't seen that one.

I've added a lot of stuff to my website this year.