I made these and they are great...really made a large difference.

another

another

oops, i meant this one

So,
I riveted the firewall bushing in.
I made the cup bushing taller to overcome the fact that it no longer snaps on, it just sits there and the ball slides in and out of the bushing.
the one on the transmission I bought from PP.

I was able to make the tolerances much closer, used waterproof grease, and it shifts nice and solid now.

Rich

Nice work, is that brass ? I can't tell from the photos. Does your camera have a "macro" button?

nice squirrel

Im guessing bronze?

Rich

Petrified Squirrel Meat???

If you used an Oilite bushing, no extra grease would be needed........

Nice work on the bushings!! are you planning on producing anymore? Id be interested in a set..

Now to another topic.... the squirrel

I got this image in a spam email the other day LOL

What is the difference?

Bronze has a higher nickle content than brass and that makes it more durable.

Correct me if I am wrong.

Yup, and has more letters.

Geoff

used brass, cheaper, will last longer than plastic and it has the word ass in it....

They certainly are cool looking. Let me be devil's advocate for a second:

Wasn't the idea of making them out of plastic so that the plastic would wear before them metal did? Will the metal cause additional wear on the shift linkage?

-Rusty

Bronze is a copper and tin alloy. The high copper content makes it more corrosion resistant than brass. It is also harder and stronger than copper. Bronze can be made to be porous, which holds the oil in the bushing/bearing making for it "self-lubricating" or "oil-retaining".

Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc. (2/3rds copper 1/3rd zinc normally)

Either can contain other metals, bronze bushings often have silicon in them for instance.

.tim

PS: yes, the bushing should always be designed to wear before the linkage. But brass should in fact wear quicker then the steel linkage. Although not as fast (or as low friction) as with a plastic.

well,
Steel is harder than brass.
I rounded the edges inlet and outlet where needed to ensure smooth travel and no uneeded wear on the rod.
And the tolerances were terrible when I bought a new set of plastic bushings.
I made these alot tighter, one one thousandth's of an inch for grease only.

I looked into using graphite impregnated bronze, but it was to costly to buy the stock, and a friend had the spare bronze, so that made the decision.

I looked into doing this for sale...

It will work if I do 25 or more sets, till then its to expensive...

Rich

you can probably count me in for a set for the race car.

thats two then

So how much closer is the tolerence ?

izzat for a tail or a side shifter?

(I'll take a set if they're for the tailshifter)

cheers,

Jeroen

well, the firewall bushing was 3/32 of an inch.
now one one thousandth

the one on the tranny was worse
now one on thousandth

the cup was not that bad, most of the slop was the outer diameter of the cup bushing, now thats gone to

All together it reall was worht it. I did the rebushing job with a tail to side shifter conversion and it really did not thrill me at all.

I then resquared the engine in relationship to the firewall, helped a bit,,,then the brass

I must say, its much much better, but not perfect...
I can now go from first to second speed shift style and not hit reverse

thats a good thing

Did you do anything to the shiftrod? The ones I have seen were worn so they were tapered. Hard to fit that..
Geoff

nope, just shopped for a rod that was straight.
I have recently aquired two more rods, I am thinking about cleaning one up on a machine to make it fit event better, just shave the rod and make a new bushing to match.

The problem I found even more severe was the firewall bushing (thats what started my obsession)

the bushing alone has a very sloppy fit in the firewall, then the rod is also sloppy..

the rivets are just big old rivets close to 5/32

I tried bolts, but was to hard to get that to work without modifying the tunnel.

the cup bushing (the one on the end) was also very loose in the hole that it is in, plus loose on the ball itself..
That on took some thought, but I just made it longer, eliminated the snap ring function (basically because I could come up with a good way to make it) , and I let the ball slided up and down inside the bushing versus letting the bushing slide up and down in the hole..

What can I say, it works for me.

rich