I scored a set of the Italian weber 40's cheap and I also aquired 2 sets of intakes. One set is the tall and the other is the short ones. I also would like some help on which linkage works the best, the center pivot or the hex bar? What is the difference, if any, on the length of the intakes?

Here is what I have mocked up so far. The tall intakes and the pivot linkage.

I'd probably try using exacly what you have. the hex bar set up is a pain at times. the mock setup you have looks good from the pic shown.

the taller cleaners allow for a taller velocity stack.

on the intake manifolds, a shorter one would allow for the heat to travel a shorter distance, but if it's much shorter, I'd be afraid it would mess up your linkage geometry. try and see...

don't forget a phenolic spacer between the head and manifold.

Are you saying the velocity stacks go inside the cleaners? I have a set that came with the carbs and didn't know where they go. The spacers are there, pic just doesn't show them.

cam and heads dictate optimum manifold length. cam? rpm range? same applies to velocity stack type to use

here is where the v stack lives

oops, wrong pic

Where do I get the clear plastic air filter covers?? I like that

Those pictures are great. It shows me how to mount the cable as well. Looks cool with the clear covers.

I've been told the phenolic was a FI thing and the carbs didnt need it.

Enlighten me.....

They help preventing heat-soak ...


As for the velocity stacks, the longer they are the more low end torque you get, the shorter they are the more high end power you get. Pick your poison.
Andy

The Velocity stack like Andy said.
the phenolic spacers were added because you can and will boil the fuel after you park....it happens alot on the 356.

Rich

Nice cable mount.
Maybe I should sell something like that.

On a near stock engine you will never notice the differance.

Velocity stacks go inside the aircleaner. Mounted to the top of the carb with two to three nuts... Taller is better since you don't have HP you want torque and tall is good for torque.

Nice linkage! The hex bar is inaccurate and sometimes breaks. Stranded me in Fairfield a couple years back and I had to have the car towed to McMarky's.

We saved a chair at the table for you today. To heck with it, we ate your donut too!

Yeah, wish I coulda made it. I am being Dad today. My 3 year old slept in till 9am and was grumpy. My wife went to the Raider game with friends for her birthday. I thought I could bribe the child with a donut, but the Wonder Pets and Dora the Explorer won. What donut did you get me?

Well if I had known about Dora the Explorer I would have gotten the one with the pink frosting and sprinkles! Seriously, I spent time with a three year old today too... I watched Soria, daughter of the owners of the donut shop while her parents attended the Buddist blessing of their sisters new fitness club. Interesting concept, No monthly charges, just donate as you go... Not for profit...

I love that linkage. Is that the one that Jake announced not to long ago? Boxster stuff IIRC?

The linkage is actually pieces from 3 different setups pieced together to work. I got a set of linkage with each manifold set and a set with the carbs. I should be getting the hex bar setup as soon as the guy I bought the carbs from locates it. The hex linkage is brand new. If they are not any better than the pivot setup I will just keep what I have. The velocity stacks have screens over the top of them, should I remove those?

Here is a pic of the velocity stacks.

The stuff that Jake developed is seriously good. I think Chris Foley sells it too. Very precise. I don't imagine the screens will hurt or help since you are using air cleaners big chunks-o-crap are not getting in. Might be nice to have when you are working on the engine with the air cleaners off. Pain to drop stuff in the carbs by accident! I don't like the hex bar. Eventually it will be innacurate. I have a Unisyn here at the house if you want to use it.

Ooooh! Shiny! That mesh might be restrictive. What do the rest of you guys think?

That is a nice cable mount.... I made mine. Yeah Sean, where did you get those clear 'Porsche 914' covers?

Bet they burn real gud when you get a backfire thru the carbs.....

Cap'n says they are as effective as K&N.

If you watch Storm Chasers, you'll know such mesh is necessary to protect against flying debris.

Sorry raw.... Hoping you've been around here enough to know the off-topic comments are just in good fun.

Yeah, you never know when you need to protect your carb from a cow. He's probably right about the K&N thing. Seen some dirty intake runners that had those on. Funny, I grew up in Ozawkie Kansas and wanted to be a storm chaser when I grew up. Back in the 70's they were called IDIOTS, not chasers. Mom talked me out of it.

Chris, do you sell that? I looked on your website but didn't see it. How about a link?

I don't like those center pivot bell crank linkages because they have to much slop. The only one that works right is the one Sean has pictured and the one that I'm also using. The bellcrank has 2 ball bearings on doesn't have any slop and you can find it at chip1.com. Aaron Cox modified a hex bar linkage that got rid of the steel ball pivot that always wears and replaced it with a heims joint. Or you can wait a couple of months when Jake releases his cable linkage which I'll be getting.

I wanted to have the "Accu-Link" on the market by now.. When my Dad passed away I tabled all developments and releases till the spring... It'll be further tested by then anyway, so thats always better.

Improperly installed (or poor design) linkage is the # 1 reason for carb issues.

Nothing wrong with a center pivot (center pull) linkage, it's better than hex bar. If you have to much slop you installed it wrong or it was beat to start with.

The first posters linkage is mounted on the wrong case stud and is not centered proper. Looks homemade, got a better pic of the center?

I,m glad you pointed this out, as I didn,t want to ( get into )trying to explain what appears to be his installation problems. But essentally.....the bell crank mounting is made (at least on mine) whereby the bellcrank is centered on the crankcase. When bolted up. the carburator pull rods are equal length, with plenty of threaded length to allow adjustment on both ends. (of both rods). the bellcrank, carb rods, when attached allow for plenty of rotation to ensure full carburator throttle opening. 1. connection to the carbs is reversed on my setup as compaired to the mock up photograph. linkage rods are to the rear firewall. (carb throttle levers are to the rear.) 2. does not look like the mockup has any "cable pull "without the acc.cable being way offset.45 degrees more or less......So as a suggestion maybe ...he could swap the carbs side to side, remount the bellcrank to a better through bolt, towards the rear, and ..save the ball joints and make one new linkage arm (which would be equal to the , shorter, one......good grief! I hope this is some what clear. I,m having to replace my "ball and socket joints" as they were aluminum and are slap worn out. Finding left and right hand small thread "heim joints" is what I,m doing now...and having a tough time finding them. Any suggestions guys?....

The one Sean has pictured looks way more sturdy than what I have. There is no slop in the setup now. All three linkages that I have have unequal length bars. The pivot base also only fits on that case bolt. I searched chip1.com and got a wireless site? Any other sites that sell that setup? Here is a picture from the top.

It's http://cip1.com

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?Pr...C31-129-941-100

I don't currently make them as a stock item but I have the fixturing to build them.
The picture is of a Raby Turnkey 2270 with SDS Injection on a customer's Creamsicle.
We customized the bellcrank to work with a stock cable and our bracket.