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VaccaRabite
Okay, its time to start my winter projects, and start the thread to keep me motivated and honest.

36/37 complete! And its no longer winter, so thats JUST GOING TO HAVE TO DO!

Hey, You unplugged the coil and ignition. 2 months from now you are going to forget. This note is to speed up the trouble shooting process!
Tasks to complete:
1) Front End Electrics.
  • new fog light fuse (7.5 amp) (complete)
  • right low beam not functional - discover why(complete)
  • Align drivers side headlight (complete)
  • caution light knob glows when headlights activated - find and fix the short (I am silly, it is supposed to do that...)
  • Put heat shrink on all plugs at fuse boxthey do not touch at all...
  • hook up oil temp wire(complete)
  • Dash gauges occasionally blink off and then back on when driving - find and fix the short(complete - sort of...)
2) Cabin
  • Install Engman vent block off kit (keep gas fumes out of the cabin, and I got no venting stuff)(complete)
  • Remove seats, backpad, door panels (complete)
  • Fix seat adjuster on drivers seat.(complete)
  • Add another layer of sound proofing to firewall (complete)
  • Add layer of sound proofing to the doors. (complete)
  • Buy new mounting hardware for door panels, since I broke several of the plastic pins on removal...(complete)
  • Replace seats, backpad, door panels (complete)
  • Add GT door pulls(complete)
  • Add the locks that I got from Herb to the doors so I can lock my car (complete)
  • Make a shifter boot for my Rennshift (complete) but I'm not jazzed about it and may make another. It has grown on me, so I am going to keep it.
  • Recover my seats (deferred)
3) Engine Bay
  • make new mount for oil pressure sender(complete)
  • Fix whatever is causing oil to leak on top of the engine (probably oil pressure sender)(complete) (I think!)
  • Order rebuild kit for dual IDF 40s (complete)
  • Order correct jetting for the IDF 40s (complete)
  • Tear Down the IDF 40s (complete)
  • Get the carb tops in the mail to be fixed...(complete)
  • Rebuild the IDF 40s(complete)
  • Install the IDF 40s(complete)
  • Make longer feeder hoses for the carbs(complete)
  • Fix linkage arm on Passenger side (arm hits the tin)(complete)
  • clear blockage in 2 of the pump jets. sad.gif (complete)
  • Balance the IDF 40s (complete)
  • Clean up hoses and wires into nice bundles (complete)
4) Rear End
  • Check for exhaust leaks(complete)
  • Install back up light sender (complete)
  • Remove stock grill(complete)
  • Install GT engine grill (complete)
  • Make Backup Light wire harness (just need to open the plug on the relay board and add in the barrel pins and wires.)
5) Front End
  • Install the Mikey914 Flexdam spoiler (complete)

Items may be added as found.
SirAndy
QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Nov 24 2009, 04:07 PM) *

Items maywill be added as found.

beerchug.gif
Cevan
Speaking of soundproofing the doors, when I pulled the door panels off my doors to adjust the windows, there was plastic adhered to the door frame. I took it off and didn't replace it. What is the plastic for and should I replace it? Was it soundproofing?

I'm told a shift boot for a '73-'86 911 with the 915 trans will work for the Rennshifter.
SirAndy
QUOTE(Cevan @ Nov 24 2009, 05:01 PM) *

Was it soundproofing?

No. It's air-proofing ...

Without the plastic, you can feel a draft of outside air coming through the door panel gaps when driving at speed.
shades.gif Andy
VaccaRabite
QUOTE(SirAndy @ Nov 24 2009, 08:04 PM) *

QUOTE(Cevan @ Nov 24 2009, 05:01 PM) *

Was it soundproofing?

No. It's air-proofing ...

Without the plastic, you can feel a draft of outside air coming through the door panel gaps when driving at speed.


Its main purpose is a moisture barrier though. Water gets inside the doors, and you DO NOT want that moisture to get at the pressboard door panels, or they warp quickly.

The plastic is there to keep the water off the door panels.
Zach
r_towle
A suggestion to add to your list.

Research the local mud bog events
Attend at least two or three.

Research tractor pulls
Attend at least two or three.

Rich
jsayre914
now that is a list.

good luck with it. me and the girls are here to help

beerchug.gif
saigon71
Zach:

A most impressive list! Good luck with everything. My list is much less detailed:

1. Have car driveable for the Mid Engine Invasion next year at Hershey.

Bob
VaccaRabite
Fuse is fixed.
I bought new H4 lights, just in case that was the problem. It was not. But I adjusted the headlight while I was in there.

Zach
Dr Evil
I dont see mention of my bus anywhere on that list poke.gif
jsayre914
you fogot,

> Fix the passenger seat adjuster loop

beerchug.gif
Kirmizi
Zach, correct me if I'm wrong; but shouldn't the caution light knob illuminate dimly when the light switch is activated?
Mike
VaccaRabite
QUOTE(Kirmizi @ Nov 25 2009, 06:15 PM) *

Zach, correct me if I'm wrong; but shouldn't the caution light knob illuminate dimly when the light switch is activated?
Mike

Whu... Huh??!

Is it supposed to work like this?

Zach
Kirmizi
LOL Zach!
Hopefully someone can chime in sooner, but I'm going to check mine tomorrow just to be sure. Little too nippy outside right now.
Mike
VaccaRabite
It appears that my caution light switch is supposed to do that. AWESOME! I'm just going to call that one a win, and move on. One less thing to do!
Zach
r_towle
Monster Mud Bog competition

Rich
VaccaRabite
QUOTE(r_towle @ Nov 26 2009, 11:30 AM) *

Monster Mud Bog competition

Rich

Come on down and we will find one. Promise.

Zach
VaccaRabite
I got the 40IDF carbs in the mail from Todd today. Hopefully I'll be able to start tearing them down tonight to see what I need to order in terms of jetting.

Thanks man!

Zach
VaccaRabite
Big one checked off the list today. All my headlights work again. My headlights did not have the plugs at the end, and I had mis-wired one. Don't know why it worked for a while wired wrong, but it is fixed now. Lots of thanks to Mike for helping me trouble shoot it.

Zach
VaccaRabite
Another notch done. Just put the new lock cylinders from Herb into my door handles. Now I can park and lock my car!

The handles will go back in when I finish the sound proofing and put my doors back together.

Now I am going to go tear into carbs.

I took today off to work at home. Called in at noon to find out why my project had not been updated from my helper. "Oh, I got someone from word processing to do it, enjoy your day off."

Kinda cool, I guess. Except that I spent 4 hours this morning working on a template that will now never be used. Silly underlings.

Zach
VaccaRabite
Carbs are taken apart for cleaning / repair.
Rebuild kits are ordered.
Venturis are ordered. This is the Jetting that Raby suggested I use for my motor:

What I need (jake's note):
30 Vent
125 main
200 air
F11
55 idle
Float height at 10mm closed, 23mm open
2.5 PSI fuel pressure.

Zach
scotty b
aktion035.gif Wish I was closer to help. beerchug.gif You'll be at the Tail of the Dragon run with it right ?? poke.gif
maf914
Did you mean "The Dragon and His Tail"? laugh.gif
VaccaRabite
QUOTE(scotty b @ Dec 4 2009, 08:01 PM) *

You'll be at the Tail of the Dragon run with it right ?? poke.gif


800 mile drive for me (one way). Probably more then I could do in a weekend. And it would likely preclude me from doing the ECC, as I can only afford to do 1 event in the fall (914 or otherwise).

Zach
slackin' at work
have you done any work on the M715?
VaccaRabite
Not even touched it. sad.gif

Well that's not true. I did string some Christmas lights up on it. Figure since its been on jackstands outside for over a year, I may was well light it up.

I keep saying: I'm going to get to that soon. But the 914 is holding my interest more right now, and I can only handle one project at a time right now without digging into my family time.

Zach
VaccaRabite
Well, tonight I took down a big one.

Another layer of RaaMaat installed on the firewall, and a layer put in the doors. I am thinking I might add a layer of ensolite to the firewall as well before I put the back pad back in. But that would require me to buy the ensolite.

Zach
VaccaRabite
Its been simply too cold for me to work lately. So, I went out and bought a 70,000 BTU K1 heater. Not the torpedo type, this is supposed to use radiant and convection heat.

I'll get it going with my radient K1 heater and the IR propane heater and maybe get my garage warm enough to work in w/o wishing I was someplace else.

Zach
VaccaRabite
Heat == good! I actually got work done last night.

Much of the interior is back in. I still need to put in the pass seat and the door panels. But I fixed the drivers seat rail and got that backpad in. Starting to look like a car again. I tore out the Forward flappers and vent housings in prep for the Engman block off kit. I fixed (I think) the oil leak between the remote hose and the oil pressure sender. I am going to make a new sendr holder this afternoon. Progress!
Zach
McMark
Lookin' good! mueba.gif
jsayre914
I got your message, did you have your 914 out yesterday??

We should do a starbucks thing before or after work one day soon. I dont have heat yet, but who needs it anyway driving.gif
VaccaRabite
The new oil pressure sender mount that I made is in, and works perfectly. Grounds the sender to the case, and will also probably clear up the oil leak I had on the top of the motor.

I also got the car up on jackstands in an attempt to keep my tires from flat spotting.

I got word from Underthetire that my carb tops are on my way back to me, so I will be able to finish the carb switch probably next weekend. That will be exciting!

Also, looking over my list, I am much farther along then I thought I was. Woohoo!

Zach
Cevan
QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Jan 23 2010, 07:14 PM) *

The new oil pressure sender mount that I made is in, and works perfectly. Grounds the sender to the case, and will also probably clear up the oil leak I had on the top of the motor.

I also got the car up on jackstands in an attempt to keep my tires from flat spotting.

I got word from Underthetire that my carb tops are on my way back to me, so I will be able to finish the carb switch probably next weekend. That will be exciting!

Also, looking over my list, I am much farther along then I thought I was. Woohoo!

Zach


Please post a picture or two of the oil pressure sender mount.
VaccaRabite
Will have to be tomorrow, as I can't find my little camera, and the big one is unweildy int he teener engine bay.

But it is pretty simple. It is 2 bits of angle iron welded together to make a "C" channel. there is a small piece of thin sheet bent into an "S" and tacked in the center of the channel - this presses against the sender to make sure thre is good ground when everything else is painted. There is a single stand off that bolts to the top of the engine. The sender is held in place with a largeish worm gear clamp.

Zach
VaccaRabite
I bought the Engman vent block off kit. And it got installed on my car last night. It does not come with vent blocks where the fresh air blowers go. I made block-offs out of some of the sheet that Mike had gotten to make engine tin with, and attached them with outdoor rated double sided tape. According to the packaging, the tape will remove the substrate it is attached to before it fails, so I hope they stay put.

Only the passenger seat and the lower dash pad need to be put in before I can cross out that one from my list as well. My list is getting well done! Looking forward to the spring launch.

Zach
VaccaRabite
My list is 75% done.
I forgot to update when I put my carbs back on the car. They won't get balanced until things warm up a little and I can open the garage so I don't gas myself.

Door hardware and the front spoiler should be here soon, so I will be able to kick them off the list soon too!

Zach
ghuff
Keep cracking.

Once I get the GTi's latest problems smashed it is back to my 914 metal work.
Cevan
QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Dec 4 2009, 07:02 PM) *

Carbs are taken apart for cleaning / repair.
Rebuild kits are ordered.
Venturis are ordered. This is the Jetting that Raby suggested I use for my motor:

What I need (jake's note):
30 Vent
125 main
200 air
F11
55 idle
Float height at 10mm closed, 23mm open
2.5 PSI fuel pressure.

Zach


Do you mean 32mm open? I just did this yesterday and Weber recommends 32mm open.
SirAndy
QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Feb 16 2010, 01:46 PM) *

Zach's Winter Project List

Are you done yet? poke.gif


Winter is over ...
piratenanner.gif Andy
VaccaRabite
QUOTE(SirAndy @ Feb 16 2010, 06:21 PM) *

QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Feb 16 2010, 01:46 PM) *

Zach's Winter Project List

Are you done yet? poke.gif


Winter is over ...
piratenanner.gif Andy

I still got got 3 feet of snow on the ground that say otherwise.

Getting really close though. At this point I could sync the carbs and be driving tomorrow. The other stuff on the list is "nice" but not exactly "required."

But, the car won't see blacktop until mid-march at least. I have a little time still. My goal for "spring" is Hershey Swap in late April.

Zach
VaccaRabite
QUOTE(Cevan @ Feb 16 2010, 05:24 PM) *

QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Dec 4 2009, 07:02 PM) *

Float height at 10mm closed, 23mm open


Do you mean 32mm open? I just did this yesterday and Weber recommends 32mm open.


I'm going off the Weber Tech Manual. If Weber disagrees, I will have to open them back up again and reset the height.

Zach
VaccaRabite
I got a lot done Friday night, but forgot to update the thread...

I finished Mike's bus tins.
I painted the front spoiler, top of my dash, and the underside of my targa top with rubberized undercoat. It does not look too bad, except where I touched the dash thinking it was try, and it was NOT. It took 2 days to cure, due to the cold temps. With 2 heaters going, I barely got the garage hot enough to paint it on in the first place.

But I have to add a new item to my list.
Two actually.

The carbs have the fuel inlet pointing forward, and my old ones pointed aft. So I need to run a longer feeder hose from the T to the carbs. Also, the extending arm that I put on the pas side carb does not fit on the smaller 40s. It hits the tin. So I have to remove it and shorten it. Not a big deal, but something that I have to do that I did not plan on doing.

Also, seat recovering is not going to happen this winter. That will go on the docket for next winter.

Zach
VaccaRabite
Flexdam front spoiler is on. It looks GREAT.

That job turned into a nightmare. What I thought would take 2 hours took closer to 7 when it was all said and done. See my thread about brazing and getting kicked in the balls.

Zach

ghuff
Win.

Can I have some of your luck and drive.
Dr Evil
Did you paint the bumper mounts on the bus? If so, I may be able to finish it soon. smile.gif
VaccaRabite
Bumper mounts.... I did not know they were on the list of things to be done.

where are they? I won't e able to get them tonight, but maybe tomorrow.

Zach
VaccaRabite
Today I did some little stuff. I fixed the carb arms so that both sides would open and close fully w/o hitting the tin. I got my door opener in the mail today (thanks BDstone914!) so I was able to get that door finished and buttoned up. the cabin of my car is DONE!

I also started the car for the first time since parking it in the garage last November. Sort of. it sputtered and died - but it DID start. The carbs are WAY out of balance. And, I need to open them up and clear two clogged gas squirters. One just dribbles, and the other does not seem to do anything. sad.gif This makes me unhappy, as I thought I had them both clean. This is the last time I use Berrymans. All it seemed to do was gum everything up.

It was getting cold so I did not do it tonight. And, I had homework to do for class tomorrow.

Zach
VaccaRabite
Wires in the engine bay are bundled a bit.
Oil temp sender is wired in.
I fixed the horn relay I busted.
Stuff got done. smile.gif

All I have to do now is balance the carbs and I am ready to go driving!

zach
VaccaRabite
So close and yet so far today!

I backed the car out into the sun, intending to spend an hour or so balancing the carbs, and then go for a NICE and WELL DESERVED drive.

But first I noticed that it was not firing on #3. So I cleaned out the idle circuit on the carb. Still was not working, so I changed the spark plugs. Then I realized that it was working, but the seat for the idle mix screw was too deep (they are a tad too deep on all 4 barrels - I really do not like these carbs...). So I modified the crew (cut off a coil) and I was able to get the needle to seat as expected.

Then I started balancing. It was not to be. I had to modify the attachments to clear the engine tin if I wanted to keep the pull on the front of the carbs. But my mods made the carbs unable to be balanced, due to the slight change in geometry. So I undid my mod, and then switched the carbs around for a rear pull. But I was not able to get that finished, as I need to get cleaned up for dinner. So, before I can get my silly carbs balanced I need to finish the rear pull conversion, and make a throttle cable mount that will work for the rear pull. Maybe it will run tomorrow.

Car sounded and idled great, though. I can not wait to drive it.

Zach
VaccaRabite
I think my winter project list as as complete as it is going to get! I still don't have my backup lights made up - that is just going to have to wait.

The dashbaord electric glitch had to do with my stereo (well, the amp anyway) install. It was somehow shorting - or jut drawing too much current for the dash. I figured it out when I started getting a pulsing interference over one of the speakers - it was amplifying the buzz when it shorted. Right now I don't care. Mike pulled the fuse, and I'll have to fix it later. The important part is that my dash lights don't short any more - and I am not getting the alternator light glowing.

But today I balanced the carbs, and went for my first drive of the season. It was glorious.

Zach
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