Just realized I was adding project info to a WTB add....so moving it to the garage.



It hit me today that since I'm using L-Jet heads, I need to add venting for the crankcase. Is the best method to drill and tap for a threaded insert?

I've been reviewing breather boxes too. Not sure which I want. I'll be using cabin heat so if the breather puts out fumes, I'm putting it into the trunk.

For the breather set up, I may need an early oil filler unit with the port on it. Anyone have one handy? I have the '75 LJet unit, can I modify this to work? Or can I use the larger diameter port that is t'd off the filler neck?

Since I'll have to have this machining done, anything else I should do, like relocating the spark plug hole? Is that really a significant upgrade? The valves were re-done, 42x36.


Got Weber 40's coming, 71mm crank/rods, Webcam 86b. Need to swap out the KB pistons with ones for the correct wrist pin ht. Also going to install 8mm rocker studs. maybe longer oil pump studs for the 30mm Shadek.

Need to get the crank polished and rotating assembly balanced. I think in my spare '74 motor lies a fan with all the blades. Need to pull that out too.

I will definitely need to get some of the wiring issues sorted out going from LJet FI to carbs.

Feel like this is starting to come together... smile.gif

Heads,
Drill and tap them for a breather fitting.
Choose a 3/8 with an NPT pipe thread on the other side.
Get them, give them to the machinist with the heads.
They are available at any decent hardware store.
Barb on one side, NPT threads on the other.
The boss is on all heads...rear on passenger side, front on drivers side...so its basically in the same spot looking at the head...left side.

For the oil filler, have you machinist install a similar fitting by drilling out the filler box.

For the breather box, spend the extra money and get Chris Foley (tangerine racing) setup. It has a simple ability to vent the fumes via a hose to anywhere you choose.

Rich

OK, cool. sounds straight forward enough. How does the fitting get permanently connected to the oil filler box?


I've seen the CF unit. would you mount it to the engine compartment and run the vent elsewhere? like back of the rear engine wall? I haven't seen anyone do that yet.

fitting gets mounted the same as the pcv valve...a nut.

I would mount the breather in the engine bay, on the front firewall as high as you can, yet still be able to close the deck lid.
You need the breather box higher than the heads ....the higher the better.
Any oil buildup that is liquid drains back to the crankcase.
Front firewall is easy and a decent height.

Run a hose to vent the gases...could be under the wing piece next to the grill of the deck lid..

Rich

If you can drill straight enough, you don't have to tap. I couldn't drill straight either, but I didn't tap. I ended up with the tiniest bit of play. So I used JB weld around the tubes before I stuck 'em in and then formed a little bead around the tube at the top of the head. Worked great.

Do I need to add a pcv valve?

No.
I'm pretty sure the hose I provide fits snugly inside the big side fitting on the l-jet filler neck.
I also include a smaller diameter hose and fittings for a separate drain back line, so the outgoing crankcase vapors and returning oil don't have to share the same hose.

Chris, it looks like the inlet is about 3/4" I.D. Kinda out of round at the moment, so that's give or take 1/16"

Hows this for the vent connection?

http://www.mcmaster.com/#5357k41/=4pzlci

Those are the correct style connections, but I would personally use brass ones. In the case that they ever have to be removed, brass won't gall and will come out much more easily. You can get them at Home Depot or other places to save on shipping.

Ok, the Home Defect it is...

Barbed NPT fitting

Here's a tip for when you are drilling for a head vent.
Make an aluminum shield to protect the valve spring, and cover the pushrod tubes with paper towels to keep debris from getting into the engine.

I'm pullin the heads to change out the rocker studs to 8mm ones. So I'll be able to keep it clean. But I will protect the springs.

Got a pic of the tube welded in there? Since the 75 head has no provisions (boss) to drill, any reason why it should be set at a perpendicular to the head or at a slight angle?

X marks the spot? Definitely at an angle away from the intake. Ready to rock'n rolla...

AFAIK all the 914 heads had the boss for the tube. That looks like the 2L bus heads that are on my engine. The only reason I didn't post a pic of mine is that it isn't a 914 head, lol.
You have the right spot. We used about a 60 degree angle and kept the tube longer than stock so it was easier to attach the hose.
The only problem with that head is the aluminum is a little thinner without the boss so use plenty of JB Weld.
You will also need to start with a small drill and work up to the 1/2" gradually. Also, start the drill near vertical and once you have it started, change the angle to what you want. It will be tough to keep it in the exact spot so maybe start a little further to the left than you want to end up.

Ok, so now I'm looking for a fuel pressure regulator. I'd like to use the fuel return set up, since I have CF's nice fuel lines.

I'd like to get a recommendation on which model to pick up. I was looking at the Mallory 4309 for about $90 + accessories. What do you guys think?

That was easy.

I use Aeromotive 13301, adjustable from 3-20 psi around the same price.

Thanks. Looks like Summit has it, but it's about $30 more than the Mallory.

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=577

Why not that? It's what I use.

I got that. I'm talking about using a return line to the tank and I need a reg with a return port on it. And from what I gather, having a psi around 3.0-3.25 is better than 3.5 psi.

Return line? Why would you need a return line with carbs? Mine's blocked off.

Keep the fuel circulating and cool. Not necessary, but I thought it would be a good thing. There's been many discussions here about it.

Wow, a return line in a low pressure system.....

That will definitely drop the fuel pressure at the carbs......

Kinda like trying to water the garden with a big hole in the hose..

Not much gets where it's supposed to....

Definitely need a bigger low pressure pump or one that can run much harder to keep up with the leak, er I mean low pressure bleed off.

At low pressures and small line ID's, friction is a big factor.

Might want a spare pump because the one that's in that system is definitely going to be working much harder.

So I'm detailing my rockers while watching streaming vid from Mavericks today...wow, epic surf today.

I'm trying to find the right tap to run through the rocker arms to clean em out after grinding a bit off the face. The tap i have is 8mm x 1.25 and is not goin in. Do i have the wrong pitch? Maybe it should be 1.00.

8 x 1.25 is standard for most 8mm bolts, but the valve adjusters are 1.00 pitch for more accurate lash adjustment.

That's kinda what I thought. Thanks.

If you run an actual thread cutting tap through there the threads are going to be really loose.

Yeah, you're probably right. i just need to clean up the thread on the ground end of the rocker. It was cutting into the valve adjuster a bit. Maybe just running a sacrificial 8mm bolt that is hard like the rocker through it would be better.

Got some minor body damage, not too bad, but i can see the right rear got a bit munched at one time. About 1/4" of bondo is coming off, and revealed some brazing. The lip around the inside corner is a bit too short to receive the rubber seal as it was always popping off there. I'm also removing a bunch of sillycone. Not quite sure how to fix this one. That lip needs about a 1/4" or so more height on it. Any thoughts?



Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Left side looks good. The right side has metal missing where the top of the rear light housing will hit.

Click to view attachment

And you are???

Just a guy looking for a little help...

Whats up Joe?

what did you end up deciding on your fuel pump/regulator situation?

Hi steve

Hey Aaron! I'm going to skip the reg and use the low psi pump.