Im getting very tired of trying to fix my car my self so I guess Im going to fork out the money and just pay someone to get it running for me. I can get it started by pouring a little bit of gas right into the throttle body but the car won't stay started. I had the car running on 2 pistions not to long ago and I have just replaced a fuel injecter after testing it and finding out it does not work. I have already put new spark plugs changed the oil and replaced the fuel lines but now it just won't stay going. If I press on the gas, once I get it to start it will ether die cause it gets fluided or it will jump up to a high rmp then drop like a door knob. The only place I can find that will work on my car is charging $70 a hour so what do I tell him to fix? Is it my timing or somthing else. My car is a 2.0 1975. Thanks

Sounds like a fuel delivery problem. If it starts, the timing is probably close. Can you hear the fuel pump running for just a few seconds? If you take it to an experienced 914 guy, he should be able to diagnose the prob in an hour or so, and give you a price on repair. Have you bought that Haynes manual yet? Ya got to have some reading material of some sort or ya just ain't gonna be happy.

Yep I have a manuel the place Im bringing to is a forgin auto place I see lots of VW bettles outside so I hope they are experienced. Once the car is started I hear the fuel pump going.

Weird,

If you have given your best shot at getting car to run without positive results, I would give a pro a try. Give them a cap on what your willing to spend $$$$ wise, but from what I have experienced in the past, a good mechanic should have things figured out in less than a hour or two. To save time and money, you should attempt to find someone with 914 experience.

You may be in for less than $5.00 in parts and his time or need more expensive fuel injection parts. It's going to take a little time to figure it out........yours or his.

John

Well great I think I found my problem is I need a new flue injecter computer. Not even my new fuel injecter I just stuck in is working. I can see were it runs into the relay and everything checks out good there. But just the other day I had my injecters squirting. How long does the engine have to run before they start to work.

Great that you may have found the problem but at this point take it to the shop. They'll repair that and diagnose all the other doubts you may have. After it's running smooth and you're not so frustrated you can get back tinkering with it

Cactus, all of sudden this sounds like the fuel injection points. They are in the bottom of the dizzy, and connect to the system via a plugin on the front side of the diz. Make sure this connector is pluged in good and its clean. Read you manual on how to remove the FI trigger points and make sure they are clean, and the little braided wire is not broken. This is what tells the injectors to fire. There are two contacts. Each one controls two injectors. When the contact closes(or opens, can't remember) it tells two injectors to open and have fuel in the intake waiting for the valve to open, and the plug to fire. Running on two clyinders is a good indication of this problem. You'll have to pull the diz. You already know how to do that, right?

Good Luck

Well now I know what the problem is I would like to try and fix the car my self to save some money. I have no clue what you are talking about when you say dizzy. And I also don't know what you mean when you say pull the diz. Im sorry. Im looking in my manuel right now can't find anything on the fuel injection triggers. Can you give me a page number. Thanks

They have to be working from the first turn of the key, or the car won't start. Can't run without fuel, and the only source of fuel is the injectors.

Test your fuel pump. Disconnect the fuel line to the fuel pressure regulator, point it at a bucket , and turn on the key. If no fuel comes out, either the pump is dead, the wiring to it is bad, or there's a blockage. Or you don't have any fuel in the tank...

There's a great book on troubleshooting and repairing all Bosch fuel injection systems by Charles Probst. It covers all of the various injection systems used on 914s, and has step-by-step instructions on how to solve just about every typical problem. The book will cost much less than one hour of a mechanic's time.

It's actually quite unlikely to be the ECU. Test the simple stuff first.

Diz = Dizzy = Distributor, which you've already shown you're quite familiar with. :-)

Ah thats what you mean about dizzy thanks on the fuel injection points I think I figured that out is it the control unit adjustment points that is right on the computer. If so Im going to go mess around with that right now.

Ecu's almost never go out. What manual do you have? We can try to point you to the right page. Yes, I thought you already knew about the diz(distributor).

I have the haynes manuel I think I found what were talking about its just a plug that has 3 wires in it. hooked into the dizzy

was it plugged in?

Another thing that will prevent the fuel injectors from firing is if the 3 ground connection (6 wires) at the rear center of the engine case (on top), coming off the FI harness are not making good electrical contact or have come loose.

Well this is the best thing to happen to me so far. I went to another auto repair shop and I started to talk about with one of the guys working and he says he knows VW egines inside and out. He pointed to his own super bettle that he stuck twin carburators on. He said to bring it in tomarrow and he will take a look at it and said if it can't fix it he will through some double carburators on for $500-$600 he said he also works on many 914's. As soon as he said double carburater my eyes lit up. Im so happy to find someone who knows what they are doing and Im probly going to go with the carburaters so I can make my engine look cool and easy to work on. Im not going to have to worry about all these wires. Thanks for all the help you guys have givin me so far.

No, now you'll just have to worry about a lot of little brass parts with tiny holes that get clogged easily. You'll have to put up with not having any kind of cold-start circuit (IDFs fitted to VW engines have no choke circuit), which can be a problem in a cold climate. And I have dual carbs on my car, so I'm hardly biased against them.

The D-Jet system, when working, works well on a stock or near stock engine. Really, buy a copy of Probst's book ($30, not $600), and you'll have the stock EFI system running quickly. Just as soon as I can get to it, I'm converting my car FROM carbs to EFI, simply because it makes it better day-to-day.

opps, another one lost to the dark side Too bad.

i have to disagree on this one. even though carbs won't give you the power, smoothness, or reliability that a working Djet has (on a stock motor), that approach is probably your best bet if you're tired with fiddlling with it or are a bit in over your head. be aware, however, that you (or your mechanic) will still need to sort out any ignition problems. nevertheless, i'd just like to hear that you're driving the thing.

shell out the dough and enjoy your porsche.

n

Haynes manual -chapter 3/ Ignition system, page 66 has a diagram of the dizzy ...part #36 "Releasing contacts for fuel injection system" is what your looking for.

As it was posted earlier they triger two of the injectors each. Pull all your injectors and see which aren't squirting. I can't remember which does which, but someone here will.

Check the cheap simple things before handing your cash off to someone else.

Well, I honestly have to agree with both nebreitling, and lapuwali. The important thing is that you drive your car. Djet will give the best performance. Carbs are better for those who know carbs and not FI. Once carbs are tuned right, they will give good service, but the drawbacks are cold starting, and altitude changes. Dirt is also a big problem. Find a mechanic who knows both, and take his advice. No offense meant to you, but at this point you should probably seek professional help for your 914 till you know more about the car. Don't make rash decisions. Weigh all your options before you spend 500 bucks on either one. I too once contemplated changing to carbs, but in the end it only made more determined to learn the Djet. I'm now a happy boy!!!!

Thats the thing Im just sick and tired of messing around with the fuel injection system.Im just a 16 old kid who really just wan't to be able to drive my porsche around. The mechanic said he could fix the fuel injection system if its somthing really bad or to make everything easy I can put carbs on it. He said it might be cheaper to fix the fuel injection if its something easy or it might cost lots and lots of money for the other stuff. I just want something to run. The mechanic said he has already done this to 3 other 914's. But tomarrow he is going to take a look at it and maybe its something easy he can fix. And I won't have to buy any big parts. Im just wonderin does $500-$600 sound about right for carbs and labor? Also what type of power will I lose on my car and what about smoothness.

500-600? depends on what carbs. One carb? no!

5-600 bucks for some decent shape twin carbs and labor sounds pretty damn fair. as vsg914 (what's your name , vsg?) metioned, stay away from single carbs unless you're desperate.

Curt. and You?

Nathan


nice to have a name on the avatar!

look at it this way: considering that your 914 has, oh, about ZERO horsepower right now, you'll be gaining about 80-85 hp with carbs.

that doesn't sound like much if all your friends have Z-28's and such, but just remember that it doesn't take much to push your little car around.

Im just wondering now that I will probley get to drive my car soon how fast can you guys get from 0-60? Also Im not getting one carb Im getting double carbs. Thats if the fuel injection system isn't something hard to fix. Then I will stay with it. What types of carbs can I get cause if Im going to get them I wan't to spend the extra money to get nice ones so I don't have to worrie about them.

If your going to buy carbs, spend the bucks for brand new ones. Weber 40 idf's should work fine for a stock 2.0L. Whole setup for about 500 or less.

not too terrribly fast, bro. that's not what our cars do well. learn to drive your car on twisty mountain roads (STAY SAFE) and at autocrosses, you'll have a blast.

I'm not saying to not take it in and have someone look at it, but it sounds like your 1/2 way there and if you can solve it yourself, you can buy a nice CD/MP3 player for your car with the $500

When I was 16 I had a funny looking foreign car that had a leaky rear brake cyl. I drove 30 miles to the only place that had rebuild parts and the next day at school in auto shop I pulled the cyl and rebuilt it. Took about an hour. I spent the next 2 1/2 hours trying to get it back on the car. The brake line would not go back on. Not enough hands to bend and turn it so it would catch or room to get another hand in there to help. Finally the shop teacher showed me the easy way. I think he was tired of hearing me swear at the car. He told me that things work or they don't and if they don't there is a logical reason why and to follow the steps to figure it out.

Good luck which ever way you go and let us know how it works out.

Fixin djet is pretty damn easy if the guy is any sort of mechanic. If he is your typical VW trained in the backyard mechanic then I can see why he wants to put dual carbs on it.
Ahh, Grasshopper you must develope some auto mechanic skills and some of that is a figure out the puzzle mentality. Its all very simple and just takes alittle time to sort out. Since you are in Utah I would recommend to keep the Djet since it works soo much better when its cold than carbs.
I would first check out the FI relay to see if its working and power is going to the FI. If you don't have the injectors running for 3 seconds when you turn on the key then check this first.
Check the grounds Jeff B mentioned, also check and clean the tranny ground strap as a good ground for the engine is needed.

let us know if the injectors "Buzz" when you turn the key . You can hear it if its quiet.

Geoff

I don't have to worrie about it being cold I live in southern utah in the desert about 2 hours from vegas. I think we got lucky and it snowed once last year about 2 inchs. The only thing I hear when I turn the key is the fuel pump. I have also replaced the ground strap thats hooked the tranny. I will have this figured out tomarrow once I bring it in the mechanic he is going to take a look at it so tomarrow. That is when I will find out if Im going to switch to carbs.