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wrightee
Hello, I'm new to this site and new to Porsche cars (long time fan). I've recently purchased a '75 1.8L car that is complete and in need of full restoration. It supposedly started and was in need of a dual relay (which I've replaced). The battery is dead and I'm getting a new one this week. I almost got it started with a jump start, but I think the battery is still taking a lot of the juice from the jump. My plan is to get it started before I begin any major tear down for the rust repairs, so I have an idea of how much engine work may be needed while it is out.

I have a loose wire that I'm not sure where it goes. The distributor has a Compu-Fire electronic gizmo that replaces the points and condensor, so I'm wondering if this was for the condensor? (there is another green wire nearby that runs to a sensor (pressure or heat?) I'm without manuals right now, so I'm just making WAGs on this stuff.
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I have some hell hole rust, but not too bad (the battery support is there, but tray is gone, and there is some small rust thru in the hole). It appears that the car had the inner rockers replaced at one time, but did not have the rust treated, and it has now affected the longitudinal area. I've seen some great info on here on doing this repair, and found some excellent photos from others who have ventured in here before me - thanks to all for posting this, as that is what gave me the confidence to take this project on.
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So, my question is, should I spend some time getting it running before I leap into the strip down and rust repair, or just drop the engine and plan for a rebuild (probable mileage is about 146k and I have no idea if it has ever been rebuilt)
flipb
welcome.png

Glad to have a fellow noob in NoVA. I bought my '74 2.0 in September. Unfortunately I'm no help with the FI... But one of the best 914 bodywork guys (Scotty B.) is in Richmond.
wrightee
QUOTE(flipb @ Dec 2 2009, 09:40 PM) *

welcome.png

Glad to have a fellow noob in NoVA. I bought my '74 2.0 in September. Unfortunately I'm no help with the FI... But one of the best 914 bodywork guys (Scotty B.) is in Richmond.


Thanks - good to know there are locals with a similar affliction. I looked at one car in Springfield about a month ago...too many previous "fixes" to undo and redo properly for the money. I'll likely need some advice (or work) from the body expert too, as I have a couple small rust thru spots on the fenders and one very small indentation on the left rear quarter.
FourBlades

Just from the satisfaction side I would try to get it running and drive it a while
before tearing it down. It may be a long time (2+ years) before you have it
together again unless you can work on it more than just part time. I broke
down and bought a driver after 20 months of working on my non-operational
car.

Engine rebuilds done right are not cheap either, I think the cheapest decent
rebuild I've seen on here was over $2000. If your engine is running well
you may want to do the bodywork, drive it until the engine dies, which may
be a long time, and then rebuild the engine.

This advice is based on my own findings as a semi experienced noob now
so other people may have other suggestions...

John
saigon71
welcome.png

I am in a similar situation. My car sat for 6 years. I opted to get the engine running perfectly & get all mechanical and electrical systems tight before tackling the rust work. I figure this way, if any problems arise during re-assembly, I have less to track down. Additionally, I will not be wrenching on the car as much after fresh paint is applied.

I think the 1.8L ran an L-Jet FI system. I do not know this system, but I am sure there are plenty of experts on this site.

You have come to the right place for info on your car.

Best of luck in your project!

Bob
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