When I had the car running and was able to drive it the car, it would not shift into second gear. It had a pushing filling on it when I would try to go into that gear. Also even though I have the clutch all the way in and changing gears like from reverse to first it would make a big grinding noise but only once in a while. So Im thinking I need to tighten my cable to stop the grinding noise. But I have no clue about how to fix second gear. My car is a 1975 2.0 with side shifter. Thanks for those who help.

MAN!! sound like you've been having a hard time!!

i'm no expert. that said ..... have you checked your shift rod bushings? worn bushings and the clutch not fully engaging can make gettin gears really hard. have you changed the gear lube?

don't get discourged!!

doug

if all else fails crawl underneath and engage it manually, with the linkage popped loose. If it goes in, the problem is shifter/linkage. If it still won't you have a gearbox issue.

I agree with ein 6er regarding the bushings. I needed to replace the firewall bushing since it was shot (and hoping it would solve the thumping noise). I car shifted quite nicely before the change. Well the shift coupler needed replacing but I didn't have it.

Now I can't shift into 2nd or 3rd! I guess the new bushing finished off the old coupler one. After replacing the coupler bushing it now shifts like before all the changes

a couple of things ...

like jake said, take the linkage off the tranny and try by hand first.
if you can get in second, suspect the linkage/bushings/shifter.

make sure the linkage doesn't have any obvious bends.
replace the bushings if you have slopp.

as for the crunch, this is going to be a bit tricky.
before you tighten the clutch cable, you need to check
if your clutch tube inside the center tunnel has come loose.
that happens a lot and if so, adjusting the cable will simply make it worse!
to check, remove the 3 screws from the shifter plate and rotate the shifter plate 90 deg so you can get inside the center tunnel with your hand.
the clutch tube is to your left, drivers side. grab it and see if it moves.
if yes, you need to weld it back onto the tunnel. search this board, brad had a post with pictures explaining the procedure.

Andy

before you tear the whole thing apart... there should be a big plastic cover over the point where the rod meets the transmision. lift it up and away. there is a round bushing p.89, fig 5.27, #25. make sure this part is in good condition. part # 24 should not rattle around. with a good bushing #24 goes on somewhat hard. does your trans engage in every gear except 2? do a search and look for a "shifter adjustment" thread by redbeard at pelican. you're making progress with your car. don't give up yet!!! look at the money you have saved by asking questions here. 5-6 six hundred for a set of used carbs is not a good deal. before you commit, ask the mechanic if you will need to change the fuel pump. he had better say "yes".

kevin

yep, forgot about the clutch tube.

if you replace the shift bushings, also replace the 2 inside the shifter housing that the lever sits in. i'm told they are only available from porsche. i can find the part # if you want. and while you are in there a new reverse lockout plate and the weltmeister heavy duty springs. i think there is a tech article on PP that explaines the spring replacement.

good luck!!

doug

Just to clarify, you can put it into 1st and reverse, and move the car correct?
Eric

Yes it goes into all the gears but second.

Have you looked inside the rear cover at the shifter bushings? You can undo the shifter cup and then shift the car into all the gears-1st/rev-2nd/3rd-4th/5th try it to see if this works.

the 2 bushings that cradle the shift lever ball are available. i think i got some at pelican. i hated the weltmeister hd springs.

kevin

I have check all this out and everything seems to get good. Now Im still lost on how I can change all the gears by hand. Can I get some more page numbers or pictures on what the shifter cup is what linkages your guys are talking about and the bushings that might be the problem. Thanks

page 90 Haynes shows it all

Ok here is what it looks like when Im trying to stick it into second gear. I try to twist and turn it to find second gear but I couldn't. It trying to push it up more but it won't go up. I can't make it go up more ether by hand. So if its the gear box how do I procced to fixing it. Will it be to hard to fix and should bring it to my mechanic or is it worth fixing. Also were do I put gear grease at. Thanks.

Pic 2

If someone can post a picture of what second gear looks like that would be great. Then I can try and match it up. Cause Im not sure whats its trying to do when I try and put it into second gear. By the way mine is a 1975 with side shifter.

hey cactus, is that you?

Thanks sirandy for the picture but its not really helping me out with my second gear problem

Did you adjust anything in the shift linkage ? Like near the shifter ?


B

i know, i know, i just thought it was funny and all ...

do a google search on \"weird_looking_cactus\"
Andy

That car looks really really dirty/muddy. Is the dirt there red/orange or is it just the pics?

Have you drained the trans yet? If notI would suggest draining the gear oil out and refilling with new 80-90W gear oil. Brand is not as important as having it clean. Besides, I would suggest changing it rather soon again (to try to make sure there isnt a bunch of dirt/mud in there as well).

From your pic, I think that it looks like it is trying for third gear not second. I think second is in the middle as it is shown, but all the way back. (The gear shifter lever will be forward, but the rod will push toward the back of the car)

First and reverse should be with the lever (at the transmission) toward the transmission forward and back.

Fourth and fifth should be with the lever (at the transmission) away from the transmission forward and back.

To disconnect the gear shift lever, keep rotating the plastic cover down and notice there is an allen screw (cone screw) in the lever at the transmission. With a 6mm allen wrench, remove the special cone screw and do not loose. Then with the cone screw removed, the shift rod should twist off of the shift arm at the transmission.


Once the shift rod is loose from the shift arm at the transmission, you should easily be able to work the transmission shifter by hand. It can be difficult to shift the transmission by hand but it should go into the gears. You may have to select other gears before being able to go into the one you want. You should be able to feel the transmission shift into each gear as the brake bands are compressed into the slider rings inside the transmission. The friction will change as each "slips into gear".

If you can't manually get the transmission to shift into second gear with the shift linkage removed, something internal to the transmission could be bent, broken, or out of adjustment.

I had one that wouldn't shift into second that was a relatively easy fix. The shift fork slid on the shift shaft far enough that the slider ring could not engage the gear. It turned out that whoever had "rebuilt" the transmission removed the wave washers (a special spring steel lock washer) and replaced them with "star" lock washers. I reinstalled wave washers, lined up the forks, reassembled the transmission and problem solved all for the price of a gasket set and 3 wave washers.

Unfortuanately, you may not have anyone in the area familiar with the transmission, but maybe your mechanic will be able to help you out. Also, unfortunately, the engine should be removed for any transmission work as the trans must be disassembled to make any adjustments.

(Yes I know one can do it in the car, but you are asking for input shaft seal problems if you do this).

Good luck!

second will be towards the rear of the car, in the middle.
if you disconnect the shift rod, it'll be easier to move by hand.

Andy

while you are in there try cleaning and lubing the shift bushings.

If you guys are wondering most the dirt here is red. Someone stiped the allen screw down. So the only way to get it out is to drill it out. Im wondering if it will be easy to replace. If I drill it out.

Use a cobalt drill bit and a Easyout to remove it. The bottom of it is a cone shape that fits into the shift rod. If you just drill it out all the way you will have problems reinstalling. Shoot some PB Blaster in there to loosen it up also. Order a new cone screw to use.

I use a (I think) a 5mm allen (hex) that on a socket so I can get good purchase in it to remove them. When they a cranked down the cone screws are hard to remove. If you are using a hand allen key to remove it, it will be hard.

Geoff

I got it out with a flat head screw driver. But you guys ROCK thank thank thank. I know its just a my linkage/bushings. I guess it wasn't switching into third gear all the way ether. But I put it into second gear my manuel when I tryed to drive it it just keep poping out right when I started and it was super hard to drive and hold it into gear. What what bushing do you guys think is my problem.

Replace them all, change the fluid and adjust the shift rod.

Ok Im looking in my manuel at the parts I need to replace. On page 89. So I just need to get #8 and #25. I know there is more then this. Just give me the number. Then I will call up the porsche dealer in Salt lake city and order them.

There are also two bushings under part#26, and another that is not shown at the firewall.Don't order them from the dealership. go to Pelican, performance products, tweeks, or your other favorite. I'm sure HPH(brad) has them also.

Call Rich Bontempi at High Preformace House or email him
Toll Free Order Line 1 877 914-4YOU

This is where BradR is working and the WCC will be nearby. Rich will send you all the correct ones.

Geoff

Cool so if I tell him what Im looking for he should know everything I need right that way I won't have to try and figure out all the parts I need.

Rich and Brad know 914's inside and out. And could Fedex the stuff to you in a day.

Rich is a good guy to talk to sometimes those two are around on the weekend so try calling later on. Brad sneaks in to the shop to catch up on working on other peoples cars like Andy, Britan, Chrisreales....

Geoff

there is a bushing in the firewall, one where the rod enters the bracket on the trans, the ball cup, and two in the shifter itself. order them all. as mentioned get them from independent vendors. when you put in the firewall and bracket bushings heat them up in some water in the microwave, not too much, they will go in much easier. if you look at the bottom of the shifter, the springs for the 1st- reverse lock out plate are probably coated with dirt and muck, so clean that up also. do the search for redbeards shift lingage/shifter install and adjustment(pelican also). very straight forward and it works.

kevin

Well I got my bushings I have got the rear coupler bushing on. Im having trouble getting the firewall bushing off. How the heck to do I do it its driving me crazy. He only sent me 3 bushings. Im not sure were the last one goes its called the special shift housing bushing. Also he wrote a note "There are 2 bushings at the front of the rear shift rod-They are expensive let me know if you need them. Rich" When I called him he never offered to sell them to me so now I don't know if I need them or not. My problem is just it won't switch into second or third gear but I can do it by hand. If I stick it in by hand it will slip out when I try to drive it. Thanks

That doesn't sound good but maybe Gint can help you adjust the shift rod. Rarely does the firewall have to be replaced, only if its sloppy .

Haha well the firewall bushing is missing a big chunk out of it from me. So Im going to replace no matter what. This sucks I always get screwed when I don't know what Im doing. Like I paid 11.00 bucks for the firewall bushing and probley didn't even need it. And if I need to get the other bushings he didn't tell on the phone about those are going to cost me plus Im going to have to pay for shipping again which is another $14.

heat up the firewall busing in hot water and it will go in much easier. for a side shifter there is: front to back, 1. 2 round bushings inside the shiftl ever assem, 2. 1 round at the firewall, 3. 1 round on the shift rod support housing on the trans, 4. 1 ball cup bushing for the shift selector on the trans. there are 2 coupler bushings at the connection point for the f &r shift rods. see what mike says before you order any thing else.

kevin

It is unlikely you need the bushings that go in the swivel coupling at the front of the rod in the engine comp.
Since you say it comes out of gear even after you make sure it is in manually, I would think the problem is inside the gearbox.

Thats my problem I can't get the firewall bushing out to be able to stick the new one in.

Do you have the shift rod removed from the fire wall bushing?
It will not come out of the body if the rod is still in it.

yepp, you have to detach the shift rod in the front at the shifter and in the back, near the engine mount bar.
then, slide out the shift rod towards the back of the car.
then pry out the old bushing.
then heat up the new bushing in a cupo of water (in the microwave) and hammer it in (use a block of wood, don't hammer on the bushing itself).
then, slide the shift rod back in.

note: put alotta good grease on the rod/bushing before you slide the rod back in.

that should work.

then, have gint adjust the whole thing when he gets there
Andy

I got un hooked shift rod bar from the front shifter but now I can't pull the bar from the rear cause it there stuff blocking its way from coming out all the way. There some type of bar that runs across the bottem of the car that I put the jack stands on to hold the car up. Thats what is blocking me.

You can push the rod forward into the tunnel, then when you want to push it back again it is accessible through the little cover near the back of the tunnel, under the plastic tray.