Well most know I have been doing alot of rust repair, and I have gotten near the end. The hell hole has been replaced and motor mount. and long material behind the motor mount... I used weldable primer on the back side of the metal. But I'm guessing that after welding there has to be some burn off. leaving some unavoidable exposed areas inside the longs.. some one had mentioned this in my rebuild thread.. and It got me thinking. What would be suggested to treat or coat the inside of the longs, then maybe paint them? I'm picturing a long wand like maybe a Ziebart rust proofer would maybe use? make a acess hole in the front of the long and spray around in there and around the heating tube as well? could you use phosphoric acid wash first then rinse then maybe a heavy rustoleum coat? the excess would come out the drip holes? looking for ideas. Thanks for all you input

As I repaired mine, I tried to use the zinc primer on all inside surfaces. After all was completed, I bought some stuff from Eastwood that is made for this purpose. It came with a long hose and wand. I removed the cover on the inside of the long for access to the back portions of the inner long. I then used the Eastwood spray to coat the inside of the long. The oval cutout near the inside seat location would give access to the rear and centre of the long. I used a flexible 3/8 hose with the nozzle attached to snake up and through the long, forward and backward. the nozzle had a spay opening that sprayed out to the side. Rotating the hose, rotated the spray pattern. I accessed the front portion of the long via a hole inside the car near the door jamb. I sprayed a lot of the stuff, but made sure that the drain holes are not blocked. JoeO

I am going to use a Dinitrol kit

You are supposed to rinse phosphoric acid washes with lots of water
when done to remove the acid. This would either be hard inside your
longs or result in lots of moisture being trapped in there. I would avoid
it and just use a product made for spraying inside car cavities.

I sprayed a bunch of cold galvanizing paint into mine to hopefully slow
the corrosion process. That stuff works great on the steel parts of my
boat trailer that get dipped in sea water regularly and left outside all
the time.

John

four blades, do you use the cold galv paint like Rustoleum? would I need any prep? or just flood the hell out of it? Alos any body know what eastwood product was mentioned earlier I just spent about hour looking for it on their site I must be blind, but found some other stuff that was interesting

I'm jelous Veltror...

That Dinitrol cavity wax got an amazing rating in one of my old english car mags. They painted a bunch of metal plates with different rustproofig compounds on half of the plate, scratched the rustproofing with a nail, and then sprayed them with salt water for about 6 months....

The Dinitrol cavity waxes came out the best and seemed to preserve the steel on both sides....

Hmmmmmmm

Mebbe you could become the go to guy for decent rustproofing materials...

Over here, rustproofing is non-existant except for a few expen$ive shops.....

Search is your friend!

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...mp;hl=treatment

If I may. Using the wax products are fine IF ALL of the moisture is gone on the metal, likewise with paint. I use basic Por-15 paint, it cures with moisture and will adhere to rusty metal. Idealy one could have a way of moving the car upside down and on its sides to spread the poured material around inside the longs but some of are us are hurting for room.

I bought a rusproofing wand kit from JC Whitney years ago. Came with a variety of wands to use with an air compresor, a set of hole plugs to seal the spray holes, and 4 quarts of black rustproofing material. After reading about the advantages of the tan cavity waxes like Dinotrol, that would be my choice to coat the inside of the longs.

Seach JC Whitney to see if they are still available or google rustproofig kit.....

If you ever put por15 over rust and it ever gets ANY moisture it is a place to rust worse than if it was open to the air. It will encourage rust through. I have found wax in cavities that has been there a long time and it is still working great. The thing is nothing washes it off because there is usually no direct pressure on it inside a cavity. Now when it is on the inside and the panel is welded to it is gone in that spot and the rust will start at the weld and go out and sometimes go under the wax. Using body plugs is better than not using wax.