914World.com > Headlight Troubles.....

quadracerx

Dec 8 2009, 10:40 PM

Finally got my "somewhat running 914" home....its all good but Im working through the typical "hasnt been driven in 10 yrs" issues...

Its a late 75 or 76 car...the headlights did work correctly and then...BAM....drivers side goes up properly....pass. side goes up about an inch....and you can move it up and down easily like the linkage isnt connected....? or something....

So...I take the plastic cover off and find a rubber weather protective boot under it....but Im not sure how to take that off without ruining it...and then WHAT...

I know it sounds stupid...

Thanks....

Steve

detoxcowboy

Dec 8 2009, 11:15 PM

First and foremost take the relay out!! When working and investigating your issue...YOu do not want the motor all of a sudden "working" and breaking you hands.

I would switch relays from the known good working side to the malfunctioning side to check first if its a relay issue..

Compare sides.. Anything differnet?

Make sure the motors arm is still attached to the headlamps motor arm bushing which connects to the headlamp itself.

Check both pivot pins (one inside the wheel welll and the triangular one inside the front trunk) to see if they have broken, you will have to remove their bolts all the way to remove headlamp..

The rubber boot is not just a round cover it is also a grommet of sorts for the motors arm so to get it out you will need to push the grommet part inwards towards the rest of the boot from inside the headlamp box where it rests when it is closed.

Take the headlamp out completely unpluged ect.. then you can compare to the good side and see if anything has broken..

Check the wiring that nothing has come loose, the ground ect.

If everything checks out the I would suspect the motor but they arte terribly reliable.

Basically check the obvious and easy first (relay, fuse ect.) then check the mechanical (physical ability of headlamp movement)

Then inspect the wiring connections for good contact and proper connection, no frayed exposed ect..

Then if all that checks out the least likely is the most likely the motor itself

.. good luck be safe..

does the headlamp always move loosley? can you move it with your hands (take out relay) not a good sighn.. or are you using the black knob to move it?..

quadracerx

Dec 8 2009, 11:33 PM

QUOTE(detoxcowboy @ Dec 8 2009, 09:15 PM)

First and foremost take the relay out!! When working and investigating your issue...YOu do not want the motor all of a sudden "working" and breaking you hands.

I would switch relays from the known good working side to the malfunctioning side to check first if its a relay issue..

Compare sides.. Anything differnet?

Make sure the motors arm is still attached to the headlamps motor arm bushing which connects to the headlamp itself.

Check both pivot pins (one inside the wheel welll and the triangular one inside the front trunk) to see if they have broken, you will have to remove their bolts all the way to remove headlamp..

The rubber boot is not just a round cover it is also a grommet of sorts for the motors arm so to get it out you will need to push the grommet part inwards towards the rest of the boot from inside the headlamp box where it rests when it is closed.

Take the headlamp out completely unpluged ect.. then you can compare to the good side and see if anything has broken..

Check the wiring that nothing has come loose, the ground ect.

If everything checks out the I would suspect the motor but they arte terribly reliable.

Basically check the obvious and easy first (relay, fuse ect.) then check the mechanical (physical ability of headlamp movement)

Then inspect the wiring connections for good contact and proper connection, no frayed exposed ect..

Then if all that checks out the least likely is the most likely the motor itself

.. good luck be safe..

does the headlamp always move loosley? can you move it with your hands (take out relay) not a good sighn.. or are you using the black knob to move it?..

Yes the headlight does move loosely by hand up or down...this is with the relay in...OOOPS...anyway...LOL

The black knob on the back of the motor does nothing...in fact when it started to malfunction...the knob (the one at the back of the motor) was laying in the trunk...?

detoxcowboy

Dec 9 2009, 10:34 AM

QUOTE(quadracerx @ Dec 8 2009, 09:33 PM)

QUOTE(detoxcowboy @ Dec 8 2009, 09:15 PM)

First and foremost take the relay out!! When working and investigating your issue...YOu do not want the motor all of a sudden "working" and breaking you hands.

I would switch relays from the known good working side to the malfunctioning side to check first if its a relay issue..

Compare sides.. Anything differnet?

Make sure the motors arm is still attached to the headlamps motor arm bushing which connects to the headlamp itself.

Check both pivot pins (one inside the wheel welll and the triangular one inside the front trunk) to see if they have broken, you will have to remove their bolts all the way to remove headlamp..

Still make sure you do not have a broken anything mechanical stop bolt motor arm ect..

The rubber boot is not just a round cover it is also a grommet of sorts for the motors arm so to get it out you will need to push the grommet part inwards towards the rest of the boot from inside the headlamp box where it rests when it is closed.

Take the headlamp out completely unpluged ect.. then you can compare to the good side and see if anything has broken..

Check the wiring that nothing has come loose, the ground ect.

If everything checks out the I would suspect the motor but they arte terribly reliable.

Basically check the obvious and easy first (relay, fuse ect.) then check the mechanical (physical ability of headlamp movement)

Then inspect the wiring connections for good contact and proper connection, no frayed exposed ect..

Then if all that checks out the least likely is the most likely the motor itself

.. good luck be safe..

does the headlamp always move loosley? can you move it with your hands (take out relay) not a good sighn.. or are you using the black knob to move it?..

Yes the headlight does move loosely by hand up or down...this is with the relay in...OOOPS...anyway...LOL

The black knob on the back of the motor does nothing...in fact when it started to malfunction...the knob (the one at the back of the motor) was laying in the trunk...?

well sounds like you need a working motor.. the black knob is used to move the headlight up and down manually but (this is were you break your fingers into bloody skin loss) at a point it of turning the knob the motor will engage and open close automatically surprise..... never heard of a motor failure but then again no one heard of a rear proprtioning valve fail but mine did confirmed by a 914 oldtimer pro.. you can find a working motor easy.. watch your finger.. take out the relay until your absoultely doen sticking your finger in harms way..

Eric_Shea

Dec 9 2009, 11:17 AM

Is the 10mm locking nut tightened down completely on the armature mechanism? Sounds like it's loose. Remove it and the arm completely and have someone turn on the lights, cycling the motor to see if it runs a complete revolution.

You may also have binding issues on the other end of the armature. Remove the plastic headlight surround and check your bushings there. Make sure that armature or pivot shaft isn't binding anywhere. There are bushings on both ends of the pivot shaft and both ends of the armature.

detoxcowboy

Dec 9 2009, 12:48 PM

QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Dec 9 2009, 09:17 AM)

Is the 10mm locking nut tightened down completely on the armature mechanism? Sounds like it's loose. Remove it and the arm completely and have someone turn on the lights, cycling the motor to see if it runs a complete revolution.

You may also have binding issues on the other end of the armature. Remove the plastic headlight surround and check your bushings there. Make sure that armature or pivot shaft isn't binding anywhere. There are bushings on both ends of the pivot shaft and both ends of the armature.

This is good advice from a 914 pro.. You need to get it apart and investigate, you have a good side to compare it too..

blazerchad

Dec 9 2009, 01:06 PM

start with grounds.. i started 914 tinkering just recently, this forum preaches a ground cleaning philosophy that borders on religion, dialectric grease and never seize are going to become your best friends... cleaning grounds and greasing bulbs and connections woke up my fog lights, all my bezel bulbs, interior light, seatbelt buzzer and light, door switches, trunk light.. it was amazing.. took days, but worth it...

My headlight right now are in a constant up position.. i fiddled with adjustment for half a day, getting the lights to open max then close tight.. i quickly realized this is like adjusting hoods, 8 bolts that all adjust.. its like infinite combinations...

I gave up. the will open fully, but not return fully, about 1/4 inch... took the relays out and run heads up... now my drivers side likes to screech when it goes into a raised position..

oh bother.

detoxcowboy

Dec 9 2009, 01:26 PM

QUOTE(blazerchad @ Dec 9 2009, 11:06 AM)

start with grounds.. i started 914 tinkering just recently, this forum preaches a ground cleaning philosophy that borders on religion, dialectric grease and never seize are going to become your best friends... cleaning grounds and greasing bulbs and connections woke up my fog lights, all my bezel bulbs, interior light, seatbelt buzzer and light, door switches, trunk light.. it was amazing.. took days, but worth it...

My headlight right now are in a constant up position.. i fiddled with adjustment for half a day, getting the lights to open max then close tight.. i quickly realized this is like adjusting hoods, 8 bolts that all adjust.. its like infinite combinations...

I gave up. the will open fully, but not return fully, about 1/4 inch... took the relays out and run heads up... now my drivers side likes to screech when it goes into a raised position..

oh bother.

sounds like your not lighned up properly on the stop bolts vs. u-tab.. it is hard to see but easy to hear. you made need to have someone engage your headlights a few times so you can see where it is getting hung up. These u-tap and stop bolt sometimes can nick on the way down and up.. that fact it is screeching is contact, the contact between and during mechanicnal operation is an interference into operation the greater contact can even halt the operation..

quadracerx

Dec 9 2009, 04:44 PM

Ok....I FEEL REALLY STUPID asking this...but how the

do I get the big rubber boot of the headlight arm piviot?

Does it mean anything that the black knob that is on the back of the headlight motor doesnt do anything?

Thanks in advance for your help...

Steve

Eric_Shea

Dec 9 2009, 05:51 PM

Two things about the rubber boot:

1. The circular part just peels off to expose the arm. Pull up from underneath and it will come.

2. To completely remove it (why?) you would need to disconnect the arm and then push the sealing edge inside the headlight housing back and pull the entire boot off the arm backward.

Knobs spin in one direction only, they come off in the other direction unless the threads are locked a bit (happens often). If it is turning the motor and doing nothing, revert back to my first post. Check the 10mm nut underneath that rubber boot... you are probably loose there and the motor is spinning in the armature.

SirAndy

Dec 9 2009, 06:13 PM

This might help!

http://www.914world.com/specs/headlight_adjustment.php

Andy

quadracerx

Dec 9 2009, 07:36 PM

QUOTE(SirAndy @ Dec 9 2009, 04:13 PM)

This might help!

http://www.914world.com/specs/headlight_adjustment.php

Andy

Cool.....I got the boot off.....and at the same time found the linkage disconnected and a broken eyebrow which i think was what casued the arm to come off....

Thanks for the help everyone....YAY...

Next on the its "almost drivable list" no dash lights...they worked last night (fuse?) and neither heat blower is working....they havent worked....

Is there a separate fuse for the heater fans (?) And another for the dash lights?

Im gonna be good at this someday....AND AGAIN YOU GUYS ARE AWESOME

Steve

detoxcowboy

Dec 9 2009, 08:09 PM

QUOTE(quadracerx @ Dec 9 2009, 05:36 PM)

QUOTE(SirAndy @ Dec 9 2009, 04:13 PM)

This might help!

http://www.914world.com/specs/headlight_adjustment.php

Andy

Cool.....I got the boot off.....and at the same time found the linkage disconnected and a broken eyebrow which i think was what casued the arm to come off....

Thanks for the help everyone....YAY...

Next on the its "almost drivable list" no dash lights...they worked last night (fuse?) and neither heat blower is working....they havent worked....

Is there a separate fuse for the heater fans (?) And another for the dash lights?

fuse for the heater in in the relay board in the engine comp., dash lights will go out if the headl;ight knob is turned counter clockwise...

new thread this ones done.

Im gonna be good at this someday....AND AGAIN YOU GUYS ARE AWESOME

Steve

blazerchad

Dec 9 2009, 08:55 PM

QUOTE(SirAndy @ Dec 9 2009, 04:13 PM)

This might help!

http://www.914world.com/specs/headlight_adjustment.php

Andy

this helped me a great deal... i was really struggling with this, had no idea the armature that links to the motor had splines... of course.. I was trying to adjust major with the fine adjustments....

aha!

type47

Nov 13 2010, 11:33 AM

I tried to adjust the headlights following the tech article. What I need and can't find is the adjustment of the 13mm nut on the adjusting screw. I think that adjustment determines how far "up" the headlights go. On my present arrangement, the headlight surround does not go up enough to match the body and eyebrow and I think that set screw adjusts that but I can't find anything in the workshop manual. Seems to me that the 13mm should be adjusted first to make the headlights go up correctly, then adjust the park height. Any thoughts?

underthetire

Nov 13 2010, 12:35 PM

QUOTE(quadracerx @ Dec 9 2009, 05:36 PM)

QUOTE(SirAndy @ Dec 9 2009, 04:13 PM)

This might help!

http://www.914world.com/specs/headlight_adjustment.php

Andy

Cool.....I got the boot off.....and at the same time found the linkage disconnected and a broken eyebrow which i think was what casued the arm to come off....

Thanks for the help everyone....YAY...

Next on the its "almost drivable list" no dash lights...they worked last night (fuse?) and neither heat blower is working....they havent worked....

Is there a separate fuse for the heater fans (?) And another for the dash lights?

Im gonna be good at this someday....AND AGAIN YOU GUYS ARE AWESOME

Steve

Did you try turning the dimmer knob? It's the same as the headlight switch, and it gets bumped all the time. Heater fan is or should be on the same fuse for the fuel pump. Probably a bad connection on the center tunnel lever, should just ground when you pull the defrost lever up.

SirAndy

Nov 13 2010, 02:33 PM

QUOTE(type47 @ Nov 13 2010, 09:33 AM)

I think that adjustment determines how far "up" the headlights go.

No, not at all ...

The 13mm nut/bolt is not a adjustment at all, if you use it that way, your lights won't come up correctly and will most likely run out of sync.

The headlights need to be able to go up and down freely without any restrictions!

The 13mm bolt needs to just barely touch the tab on the headlight when the light is UP to prevent it from jiggling while you're driving. That's all.

It's NOT a stop of sorts for the headlight!

popcorn[1].gif

type47

Nov 14 2010, 03:03 AM

When in the "up" position, the headlights point too much to the ground. How do I adjust that?