First of all, my transmission had just been rebuilt a year or so before and at that time had a billet intermediate plate and Guard Torque Biasing Differential installed at that time. Issues discovered during that rebuild were the bearing in the stock intermediate plate had a cracked race which I hear is common, and synchro replacement was needed in gears 1 through 3.
So, I was opening a fresh box and should expect to find fresh parts without wear. right?

My first gear synchro which again was new, showed pretty significant wear. My first gear dog teeth were pretty worn as well. The dog teeth wear would never have gotten by the guy who rebuilt it. He would have replaced it during the rebuild.

Lesson one: never downshift your 901 into 1st gear while you are moving. It seems that even though it has a syncho it will not tolerate that.

I changed to M 3rd and S 4th gears. I left the Zd 5th on the advice of the learned DNHunt who knows a bit about teeth in humans as well as transmissions.

Lesson two: this is a very nice gear set for street driving in traffic with lights and stop signs. I expected it to be a great autocross/DE transmission but what I didn't expect was to be able to cruise down Sunrise Blvd. in 4th gear without any urgency to downshift. In short, it isn't so "busy" in traffic.

Lesson three: with all due respect to the Capn who says transmission gear oil does not need to be changed, I have to agree with the Evil Dr. My fresh gear box had a little metal Chia Pet attached to the magnet after only a few thousand miles. The Dr. says change it after the first thousand miles. I agree.

I want to drive your gearset! Thanks for sharing!

I don't remember

Thanks for sharing Rob. There has been a few times coming up to a stop when I put it in 1st before the the stop which I won't do anymore.

I didn't realize it until about 6 months ago, but factory spec on transmission oil is change at 600 miles (from new/fresh) and then every 10,000 miles. Presumably, not from degradation, but from accumulated particulate. I will be paying more attention to this interval from now on.

I'm also looking forward to feeling the S to Zd shift sometime, Rob.

I learned how much I could eat and drink and still follow direction on how to assemble a transmission

I did upshift from 4 to 5 and it was fine. It dropped into a 3K rpm cruise.

For autocross, not DE or track, how did you like the diff? From driving other cars with LSD, they can add a "push" to an auto cross car, where as on the track its much more better.

Dave,
I have not had the car on the track for any purpose. I have autocrossed it with the differential. It is not an LSD. It is a torque biasing differential. Paul Guard who owned GT Racing until recently suggested that a torque biasing differential was better for autocrossing which is my primary leisure activity with the car. Rather than lock both wheels into propelling the car, a torque biasing unit transfers the torque to the wheel that is not slipping. I have not felt anything like push. Here are some pictures at an autocross a couple weekends back. I am running my street tires which are 300 wear rating and the only time it didn't go exactly where it was pointed was when I over modulated my brakes. Then I would go straight

The car has a Tarret front bar, stock rear, stock torsion bars, Elephant bushings, monoballs front and rear, koni adjustables. Very flat in corners.

I'd like to change the title of your thread...

Oh my gosh E! Are your panties in a bundle? Tell you what, you pick a title and I will edit it just for you.

By the way, I am pissed about those aluminum brake calipers. They work too good. They also make the rears look bad. I would send them back and demand a refund but you could probably double the price and sell them within a week! Any possible aluminum calipers for the rears? Unsprung weight is very good to save. F@ck the baby seals, lets save unsprung weight!

Eric, I'd like to change your title.

Somebody needs to teach Mark how to make coffee ...

Apparently there is a solution, of a sort, for this.
You notice that the dog tooth ring and the associated synchro parts are different for first gear? Try using all the parts from the 2nd through 5th synchro sets. First gear original synchro was designed to work in one direction only, while the rest are bi-directional. Probably not a perfect solution, but is is a step in the correct direction from what I understand. This was something I got from Grady Clay.

rob: what size rear springs are you running?

You would have learned it from me at the clinic you attended as well

It doesnt solve the wear problem, it gives you an option to save some coin because good used 2-5 teeth are readily available and 1st ones are not.

OMG that was coffee?? j/k

You guys know that McMark chews tabacco right??? That technically isn't really a coffee pot. You didn't drink it did you?