Since I have no power to the fuel pump (converting back to FI) I was tracing all the PO skunks out of the wiring before things start melting... (they haven't YET)
He had a jumper in the logic switch box to bypass the cut out. What is the best practices for deleting this POS? Can I just snub the "hot" black wire and mate up the two yellows?
Thanx!!
dtd

That would work. The "hot" black from pin #15 should be capped off, and connect the two yellow wires (pin #50 and pin #C).

You will loose function of the seat belt warning light. If you want the buzzer and light to still function, simply connect the two yellow wires (pin #50 and pin #C) together and leave the black "hot" attached to the logic relay.

All you want to do is prevent the seat belt warning system from not STARTING the car right?

That is correct. Not starting is bad, only my dog gets to ride without wearing a seatbelt so the warning is moote!
Cheers,
Dino

Can the rest of the wires be removed/terminated at the harness to remove all wiring from under the seat?? Where's the cleanest place to connect the two big yellow wires? I want to remove this whole mess from under the seat and install my DME brain there.

[QUOTE]

I was thinking of my audio amp... IF i ever get power to the fuel pump!

Sure,

You can remove ALL the wires from under the seat. That is also where the DME is installed in our 3.2L 914-6.

I had the wiring harness out of the car when I "removed" the logic from it, but the "cleanest" place I can think of in a harness still installed in a car would probably be in the center tunnel. It will probably be a LARGE PITA, but I believe that the harness passes through a "valley" in the center tunnel near the transverse mounted brace at the front of the seats (I don't know what else to call it). Remove the center cushion, the console "shifter board" and the carpet under them. I think you should see the "valley" in which I speak. The harness is probably wrapped loosely with cloth backed tape if it is original and hasn't been tampered with but the wiring should be identifiable. Find the (2) larger yellow wires (4.0mm) and these should be the two you want. Splice them together. I solder all my connections.

(some think vibrations will crack solder joints so solder or crimp, it's your car)

The only other wires of concern would be the black "hot" wire which could be cut off and capped or pulled out of the harness all the way back to the fuse panel. If your harness is installed, you may consider just capping it off. I would leave the wire in-place and use it to power the DME relay or the power amp (name your poison).

Another wire to consider would be the one terminating at terminal #B. This Green/Red wire is for the Oil Pressure warning light. I should be connected back together so the oil pressure light remains operational. (Not important in a DME car as that signal comes from the DME unit)

The other wire that I now see of concern would be a red/black terminating at terminal #30. This feeds power to the interior light. It should be connected to the black wire that it terminates with it at #30.

The rest of the wires connected to the Logic relay are switches that are all at ground potential (door switches, seat switches, seat belt switches) and can all be removed entirely.

I am a little supprised that you are asking about this if you are doing a DME swap as you have much more wiring involved with that swap, than just this simple logic relay.....

Beware of location of items under the passenger seat and make sure there is room under there before a baffoon sits there and jacks with the seat and crushes whatever is under there or put in the wrong spot under there.

Look closely at the bottom of the seat and make sure you have room. A friend of ours tried putting an item under there only to have it crushed by an unknowing passenger who lowered the seat on it. The seat rails have a tube running between them that has very little clearance when in the fully tipped forward position. Also the "dog" on the seat rails MOVES to engage/disengage with the teeth (to tip the seat forward and back)

Luckily, the seat bottom is relatively flat so as long as teh item you put under there fits when you tip the seat, you shold be OK when the seat moves back and forth. (But you should check anyway)

Good point John...

John, Yeah your right, I cetainly have my work cut out for me wiring the DME! I haven't gotten into that yet and just wanted to clean up existing wiring before I got started. I know alot of people have eliminated the seat buzzer/interlock crap, but most info I've seen on it was jumpering around to defeat it. Your's was the first post I've seen that provided the info I was looking for. I really wanted to clean this up completely and not just jumper around and leave a pile of wires there. I started going through my wiring diagrams to form a game plan, but I saw this thread and figured if someone else has been there/done that it would same me the trouble. Thanks much for the nice detailed write up! Did you bring your DME harness through the firewall just behind the seat through a new hole?? That's what I was going to do. Do you have any pics of your car??