what's the best tool to remove the nuts on the exhaust studs? I sure don't have it.

I run stub pipes which is supposed to make this easier but they are still in the way for my rachet.

At the shop we had some kind of universal joint sockets that kind of worked ok. Anything else?

thanks,
dr

I just removed the stubbies on the 2056 motor that came with Manfred...the heads were OFF the car and it was a pain in the ass....it was a 13mm socket with an extension and I had to tap it in with a hammer to get it to seat.

Obviously the headers were off first. For those a box wrench went on top and I was able to loosen in this case the allen heads from below....

I used a wobble extension recently, it seemed to work with no problems

I just removed the headers, which wasn't too bad. One nut was a real b***h though.

I didn't think about a wobble extension. Think I even have a couple of those, but I am not sure it will fit with these stubs. The flange is really thick on these. (triad)

What are those special sockets called?

dr

I'm having the same problem... I suppose the question is; who makes a thin wall deep socket? I want the design engineer shot & then hanged.

sears, get the 1/4" drive(seems to be thinner walled) and use the 1/4 to 3/8 adapter. i used the 1/4 extension with the adapter further down. replace with 12mm nuts.

kevin

Gee whiz Guys!First you want the max. possible exhuast,to do that you go with larger diameter tubes,taking up the space the tools use to go.I had to use open end wrench,to install! Now,I figured that what's the stubby were for.I also really caution on using air tools for removal,suffer the dreaded'broken stud'.I'm a thinking heat & spray WD40 or whatever prefered(Beware of gas or flame!) and gently remove the nuts.Done this a lot on most exhaust nut and bolts removal.Which I think is THE WORST !

Just my 2 cents worth,which is not a lot theses day!

Thanks Rhodyguy! I forgot the 12mm nut trick!
Unfortunely I learned that one too late

so you don't need the flex sockets?

I really didn't think the 1/4" drive would reach it, but I'll try.

PS, did that work with stock exhaust or stub pipes?

dr

you might need a deep well on the the 13mm. i used one on the 75' when i pulled the oe system, but i pulled everything but the stubs first. screw the wd-40 for the old studs/nuts. i used a combo of pb blaster(first, to eat at the rust) , then aero kroil, and took the rust scale off the stud with a tinny little wire wheel. i feel you need as little bulk up in that tight area as you can avoid. i think the swivel would be pretty fat, and even more so as it flex's. one of those MUST BE PATIENT proceedures. with the torque wernch set 1lb higher then the install value i ran them just a bit tighter to break the nuts loose rather than turning them off against the debris. well, that's my way. right or wrong. i didn't break any studs.

kevin

The ER stub pipes are big enough that the corners of a 13mm nut will touch the stub pipe, making it impossible to fit a socket onto the nut. Even 12mm nuts will be hard to tighten/loosen.
CB Performance sells even smaller nuts for 8mm exhaust studs, 11mm I think.
Flanged "Kay" nuts with a 10mm hex are also available but are quite pricey. I include them with my "Modified" stubbies.

These are the way to go!!

Sorry for the out of focus photo!

Jeff

jeff, what is that?

if the studs are completely straight, you should be able to get the 12mm socket around the nut. one of my studs isn't exactly straight, and i had to use an open wrench head-on with a thick screwdriver through the closed end (to turn it). PITA, but it worked. one-eighth turn at a time.

It is an allen head exaust nut from my 6.

Jeff

better photo

Jeff

thanks kevin,

the simplest method is usually the best.

the 1/4" extension and socket worked like a charm. 10 minutes for all 4 stubs, took 1.5 hours just to get the headers off.

thanks again,
dr

result

even a broken clock is correct 2 times a day. glad it worked for you.

kevin