Two quick questions.

1. How does the shift coupling come apart. I noticed my bushing are tight on the end of travel and loose in the middle. They are also comming apart in my hands, so I figured i'd fix that now.

2. Shift consol drained about 1/2 quart of oil when I pulled the cover. I have seals for it, but do I need to pull the trans apart to re-seal it.


Thanks all.

Two set screws hold the shift rods togeather. one is at the firewall and the other is at the trans. Remove the set screws and if your lucky you will be able to pull the shift rod out. Some times it helps to have a helper hold the shift lever.
you can replace the shift seal w/o disassembly of the trans. I think Dr. Evil recently covered this in another post.
Have fun and enjoy the smell of the gear oil!

Gear oil is already on my forehead . I got the coupling out no problem, I need to separate it to replace the bushings.

Are you talking about the one near the firewall? If so the center is a pin and needs to be driven out, but be careful not to deform the pin.

You press out the center and remove the bushings. Assembly is the reverse of removal. You'll get it once you press the bushings out. Simple stuff really if you've ever done anything remotely like this at all. Like a u-joint almost, but even easier.

Here is a picture of the coupler separated to help ya out.

Click to view attachment

thank you!

The shift shaft seal can be replaced whithout to much more effort than your already exposed too. Check Pelican Tech Article for all the glory details with photo's and they carry the seal, very easy job but and make sure you get the right o-ring from them, they have it but the correct size is listed under their 911 section.. You will have to drain the tranny, sounds like your low anyways..

Well, got the seal in and the trans back in. Need CV gaskets and waiting for my shift coupling bushings. Thanks all.

Been told by shop you don't need cv gaskets if this is at trans. Clean thoroughly and use black silicone ( purportedly recommended) run bead ...tap joint in place tighten and wipe excess. No seals on 2 of mine and no splash.

While you are in there cleaning up the shifty slop.....
I betcha your transaxle mounts are cracked. It takes a real close look to see up in the rubber part inside that cracks. I replaced mine with the racy WEVO ones and it really improved shifting feel vs. having a transaxle that moves around a lot!
Maybe not, but it they are, you can replace them by just supporting the tansaxle from the bottom and doing them one at a time.
Enjoy!

Yep. Cracked for sure. Guess thats on my next order. It never ends.

I may have an extra set of mounts laying around. Is your bar in good shape? Whole linkage? They can get rusty and bend.. Let me know if you need anything...

Wholly crapatolly those mounts are expensive. Sounds like hobby shop time to me. Being an ex-machinist me thinks a little too much for what they are. My freind has a shop with some real nice newer CNC equipment if there is a need for lower priced mounts. Could probably do aluminum with delrin inserts a whole lot cheaper. They won't be anodized tough. That adds to the price to much in smaller QTYs.

Could use mounts, or a least borrow one for dimensions. Thank you ! The bar is fine, no cracks but i am doing the bushings.

I have what looks like 911 mounts off the orange smasher and they appear to be new. You saw them attached to the 901 in my garage. You can borrow those for a month or so if you want. I think I have a stock set too, but condition unknown...

I can just take measurements there if thats ok. I don't really trust mine for good numbers any longer, plus I need to get mine on the road this weekend. I gotta do some work to the DD, the way my luck is i'll break something on it and be down both my cars. Sometime next week ok with you? I have to fix Zacks carb tops first, then I can make my mounts.

No problem. Next week is business as usual if you want to stop by after work..