I purchased the following tool and don't quite get how it is to be used:

Click to view attachment

Before you flame me, I did a search, and I completely read through the following post:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...ywheel++endplay

But for some reason, I still don't get it (obviously, I'm riding the short-bus today... )

Can anybody explain the theory behind the proper use of this tool?????

My thanks in advance.

Eric Read

Bolt the tool to the case using the long silver bolt.
with a rubber mallet tap the fan end of the crank to push the flywheel back as far as it will go.it is not much, but it needs to be pushed back.

Turn the black bolt until it *just* touches the flywheel. tighten the lock nut to make sure that the black bolt does not change position. Do NOT remove the gage.

Tap the center of the flywheel with your rubber mallet to get it to move forward as far as it will go. There should now be a very small gap between the foot of the black bolt and the flywheel. Use feeler gages to measure the gap.

Be sure that you so not spin the crank as you push it back and forth. you want to be taking your measurements at the exact same point on the flywheel.

Zach

Bolt it on, tap the flywheel out away from the engine, lightly touch the flywheel with the adjustment screw tap the flywheel forward toward the engine. Measure the gap with a feeler gauge between the adjustment screw and flywheel.

Don't like these myself. You can get a mag base and dial indicator for the same price and use it for other things.

Dam it Zach, you beat me ! Your carb tops will be done tonight BTW.

Woot!

As I said, I'm a bit slow...

So the design includes a slight wobble in the flywheel? And the tapping should be done after the crush washer is installed and the five center bolts are torqued?

Again, my thanks!

Eric Read

That tool is designed to be used without feeler gauges. The bolt's threads are on a 1mm thread pitch. So 1/4 turn = .25mm or .010" A dial indicator is the best method however.

You are measuring endplay in the crank by the rim of the flywheel. You absolutely need the flywheel fully torqued on, just as if the engine was going to be running. This includes all bolts and washers.

if by wobble you mean that not all the bolts attaching the flywheel to the crank are installed, and it has a slight wobble - you need them all installed our your measurements are going to be worthless.

if by wobble you mean that the surface of the flywheel is not a perfectly flat surface, you are correct. That is why it is critical that you take your measurements from the same point on the flywheel, not letting it rotate at all as you tap it back in for the second reading.

And while you can use the tool w/o feeler gages, I don't trust my eyes as much as I trust the feeler. It may be an experience thing, though. Guys that have done it more this way are perfectly comfortable with it.

Zach

Thanks! It's starting to make more sense now. In order to tap the fan end of the crank, do I need to drop the engine? I was thinking I could replace the flywheel without doing the drop. Or is there enough room in the fan assembly to insert the mallet and tap it?

Eric

I gave advice on the assumption that the engine was out of your car.

Don't know what to tell you about using that tool with the engine in place.

Zach

You can just push and pull the flywheel with your hands, but if it's out of the car it's way easier.
Some guys will tell you it's crap and get a DI but my $10k (replacement value) Gene Berg engine in my '67 bus was built in 1991 and when I put it in (it's 3rd car) 3 years ago it was still in the same spec using a DI.
And by the way my DI is worth 6X the amount of a cheap HF Dial indicator.

My thanks. This finally makes sense to me now!!!

Eric