I'm installing 4 piston Wilwood calipers and believe that a larger master cylinder is recommended.

Is this the correct part? ATE # W0133-161214

76 1976 Mercedes 450SL Brake Master Cylinder - Brake - ATE - PartsGeek

(4th one down)

Thanks

Eddie

Unless these have been superseded, I used these numbers for my 23mm master cylinder.

The (Mercedes Benz) Part number is 022.430.9301 (Edit McMark: I think the part number is 002.430.93.01)
The ATE part number is 03.2123-3402.3

You'll need the "blue" hose and 90 degree inlet pieces unless you already have them.

Note: I had to relieve (grind off) a little of the dimpled end to get it to fit behind the rack .
Not a problem and it's been in use for ~12 years. I have Wilwoods also.

Good Luck!

Ron,

Where did you get the part.

Does the actuating rod need to be replaced?

Are adapters needed for the brake line fittings?

Thanks

Eddie

Askin' me things from ancient history!

It was a "kit". I've looked through my records to see if that receipt was in the folder for that car. it isn't but the instructions are. I'll scan and post the instruction page here. There is no indication who did it.

I think it was a special deal that someone on Porschelist (now Rennlist) 914 or Racing forum put together with all the right parts included.

That kit had the blue lines, some hose clamps, and and plastic 90 degree fittings that go into the rubber grommets on top of the MC.

In the meantime I've found a couple at these links, although I don't know anything about these folks or their stuff.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/pts/1561039742.html and

http://www.rebelracingproducts.com/Brakes.html

RebelRacing says they have the correct length rod but you'd have to call and make sure he's familiar with the 914 application, and whether or not he has the hoses, etc.

To my installation:
- I added a spacer inside the barrel to use the stock pushrod. Made that from a steel 'cause it was easier than making a new rod,or modifying the old one.

- The old hard lines need no adapters, but one or both had to be bent a little as I recall, but not much. Gotta be somewhat careful with that process. Old lines may be brittle. Go slowly.

Here's the instruction page. Let me know if you have questions.

Good Luck!

Click to view attachment

Ron.....you should tell him NOT to mount the calipers upside down/correct side.....

Yeah yeah.

Ron,

Thank you VERY much.

Did I miss something??

.....you should tell him NOT to mount the calipers upside down/correct side.....

Cheers,

Eddie

You're very welcome and you didn't miss anything. Jt's a friend, local, and has a bitchin six with big brakes as well. We have plenty of opportunities to poke fun at each other's machinery. Although his car is really shiny...

He was referring to me having installed my Wilwood differential/billet calipers with the smaller cylinder trailing rather than leading.

Engineers aren't supposed to make mistakes like that. Didn't hurt anything and they worked ok, but I still have to hang my head in shame.

Turnabout is fair play. I can gig him about the color of his exhausts. If he gets too persnickety I'll turn a few little screws on those Webers of his and watch what happens!

Good luck with your brakes. I've been happy with those Wilwoods. The Superlite II's I had before these wore pads unevenly but that doesn't happen with the differentials.

Keep the shiny side up.

FYI SmartRacingProducts has a 23mm kit for the 911 but have all the bits to make it a 914 thing. I'd bet they're familiar with our application. Good folks and they race.

http://www.smartracingproducts.com/pdfcat/...heelsbrakes.pdf

The 911 rod and the 914 rod for the 23mm master are the same. Rebel Racing knows that. I make them out of 10mm bolts, cut the head off and taper and round the cut end with a bench grinder and smooth it with sand paper.

Great idea... Never thought of that. I just got my stuff from Smart Racing.