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I am installing new ball joints and would like to get it right the first time. is it as simple as sliding the shaft into the hole in the strut and the tapping in the threaded pin? does it need to be lubed? the shaft doesnt seem to go in far enough for the pin to grab it.
i will now wait out the sex jokes in hope of an answer

You should be able to tap it in far enough for the nut to pull it in the rest of the way.

Of course, a little lube never hurt anything.

i'm not sure we are on the same page, are you speaking of tapping the threaded pin? i meant that the ball joint shaft isn't going in far enough.
wow i think i invented automotive porn

Let's see... we have; "ball", "sliding the shaft into the hole", "tapping", "lubed" and "the shaft doesnt seem to go in far enough"

Why would you think there would be sex jokes associated with your post?

No lube needed. Looks like you have it in far enough in the pic. You may want to wipe a little anti-seize on it before you put it together for the next guy. As les stated, you should be able to get a nut on it and pull the pin in to torque spec. (33ftlb? there's two specs and I can't recall with the bolt one is. I think the pin is 33, bolt may be 16ftlbs.)

moving on to the bearings and the inherent questions. how much and what type of grease do i need to use? i heard of a trick for installing them that suggested freezing them? anyone know what i'm talking about. i sure don't

The FRONT wheel bearings are installed with a drift. When you clean the rotors, you can see a small relief where the race sits that you can access with a drift to punch them out. I use the old race to put the new race back in (you can hammer on it). Freezing the race may make it drop in easier.

As far as what kind of grease and how to .... axle/wheel bearing grease. Get a handful in your palm and start working it into the bearing by squeezing the bearing in your palms ... greasy but effective.

Or you can be a wussy and buy one of the bearing greasers if you don't like handfulls of grease.

grease is my life! my rotors are new , so i guess it's just grease up the bearings and drop em in.
stupid ? how do i tell the right brake caliper from the left?

A trip to the store to get some latex surgical gloves will make the job a LOT easier to clean up from... I'm just sayin'

Good Luck.

[quote name=.
stupid ? how do i tell the right brake caliper from the left?
[/quote]
.Bleeder valve goes to the top!.if I remember right, been awhile sence i`ve seen one ......On greasing the bearings put the grease and bearings in a ziplock baggy and work it in ..lots cleaner ...if im wrong about calipers the pro`s will chime in

Rich, I put this together a while ago when I was working on my 944. A lot of it applies to the 914:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PjFY7-IHgvQ

Don't over torque the nut for the pin. Many of the books list an incorrect torque value that will snap the threads off the pin.

You need to use a new locking nut as they are a one time only fastner. I'll see if I can find the exact torque specs, but I think Eric's correct at 16 ft lbs.

[quote name='6freak' date='Jan 26 2010, 09:09 AM' post='1265840']
[quote name=.
stupid ? how do i tell the right brake caliper from the left?
[/quote]
.Bleeder valve goes to the top!.if I remember right, been awhile sence i`ve seen one ......On greasing the bearings put the grease and bearings in a ziplock baggy and work it in ..lots cleaner ...if im wrong about calipers the pro`s will chime in
[/quote]

i have a 73 it has 2 bleeder valves. thats why i can't tell left from right, that and i am brain dead

They are listed as interchangable however, if you look close there does seem to be a left and right:

Backs facing you. Bleeder nipples (to maintain the thread tone) facing you. There should be an extra recess under one of the bleeders. That should be the top bleeder. The bottom bleeder is simply machined into the face. Now, put the bleeders with the recess on the outside edges (with both calipers facing you) and you should have them correct positions. Meaning; recess on the right = right caliper. recess on the left = left caliper.

thanks eric. a good answer. but since my 914 was made in hell/ not germany, i don't think it apllies, mine seem to be twins


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just send them to Eric !they come back look`n brand new and then he will tell you ,after you pay the bill of course....LOL ....made in hell thats funny

Well... you have a good left (and a broken left), just take a right (passengers) off the cadaver car.

that's the plan. in the interim, picked up an $8 crappy air nozzle with a rubber tip at home depot, popped the piston out in 1 try. now to block off the other side and i should be able to rebuild the good one today. thanks for your help

[quote name='6freak' date='Jan 26 2010, 09:09 AM' post='1265840']
[quote name=.
stupid ? how do i tell the right brake caliper from the left?
[/quote]
.Bleeder valve goes to the top!.if I remember right, been awhile sence i`ve seen one ......On greasing the bearings put the grease and bearings in a ziplock baggy and work it in ..lots cleaner ...if im wrong about calipers the pro`s will chime in
[/quote]

In terms of removing and installing the new bearings/races, is the process on a 914 essentially the same as in the video above?

Except that they go into the rotor itself (rotor has an integrated hub). I always get new rotors and start there. You can freeze the bearings and the races seem to go in better. A shop press is advisable.

Is it possible to put the spacer and seal ring back on with the strut on the car? I've read conflicting reports.

Aren't those completely different brake calipers?

One has a lot more holes drilled in it than the other.

My front brakes are much different from the rears, but is it OK to have 2 different calipers on the front wheels?

Am I completely wrong? My fronts look like the one on the left with all the holes drilled in it.

J

You just lost me...

Strut spacer? Are you talking about the flange at the base of the spindle and the grease seal?

time for pictures.