My windshield is badly cracked and I'm curious if there is any reason not to use one of the windshield services in the area. I believe this will be covered by my insurance.

Aaron,

There's a guy in OC named Rufino, now known as R&J Glass, who is really good at 914 windshield installations including your choice of original metal, rubber, or rubber/stainless trim. He's done mine 5 or 6 times and many other locals. He's always worked mobile, had great prices, and excellent installs. You might touch base with him: 714-292-5811

Jim

I have an extra one I'm trying to get rid of, just FYI

I have an extra one I'm trying to get rid of, just FYI

Whoever you use, I recommend asking them to use butyl tape to keep the install tidy, without excessive goop oozing from the edges.

My local glass person charges $230 for a 914 windshield (aftermarket), installed. I understand you can get the OEM glass from Porsche for ~$350 still, shipping from Germany included - I'd go this route if your insurance is paying.

Don't forget the 19 clips for the w/s mouldings. I always get 20, just in case, but have never needed the spare. But I just know that if I buy exactly 19, I'll need that extra.

Ouch... Looks like I have a $250 deductible on glass.

That would be an inexperienced installer.

Thanks Jim. I gave him a call and his price is so cheap I can't pass it up. It's barely any more than what I could do it myself for with a used windshield.

-Aaron

I could be wrong but I don't believe there is a deductible on the windshield. There is on all other glass, best to check with your insurance.

Only some states. CA is not one...

Aaron,

Rufino's a real pro. If there's something special you want for the install, ask. He is very good. He's also got the real window sealing down.

I really think that you could install the windshield yourself. I wrote some instructions in the tech tips 700 as if I were a layman installing one for the first time. Really not that hard. The guys were dead on about replacing the clips, getting 20, and using 1/4 inch butyl tape. Also look at the dash to windshield bead (best time to replace it) and touch up the cowl under the windshield if scuffed or rusted, and use the window weld primer so that the butyl tape will stick better.

I'm 100% certain I could do it myself (I have the tech tips 700), it just doesn't seem to make sense.

DIY:

$30 clips
$100 + tons of miles for a windshield
$10 butyl tape

Total $140 + gas + 1/2 day in driving + install time

Installer:

$215 at my house.

If I could find a cheap used windshield I'd be all over it.

I was told by several installers that butyl tape was now a no-no since there have been several cases of windshields coming out. Several companies refused to install it with butyl tape. The mobile guy that installed mine did a great job without excessive adhesive oozing anywhere.

I don't like to glue them in with urethane unless the windshield frame is welded to a cage. A co-worker had some big fat dude in his car with the top off. Big-un used the windshield frame to hoist his large ass out of the car and broke the windshield because the urethane didn't flex like butyl tape does, presumably. Test group size of 1, we didn't get the water buffalo to test a butyl taped windshield.

I don't know about our old antique 914 design but modern day cars use the windshield as a structural component....Perhaps in the early 70's this wasn't thought but then again maybe it was.....Quote below and food for thought

Many of today’s vehicles have been specifically designed to depend on the windshield to act as a structural member of the body by providing increased torsional stiffness. Knowledgeable vehicle manufacturers are careful to select special, high-modulus polyurethane (PUR) adhesives to adhere the windshield to these specific vehicles. When driving, this high-modulus PUR allows for the efficient transfer of dynamic forces from the road, to the car body and finally to the windshield, which ultimately results in increased vehicle stiffness and optimized handling. Relying on the windshield as a structural member, the high-modulus adhesive also allows the OEM to minimize the thickness of the steel used to build the car, thus reducing weight and costs.

Not a chance... I would imagine this is *only* on hard top vehicles.