Ok so I managed to get all the new bearing and polybronze stuff in the front of my car with out removing the brake calipers or even breaking the lines loose .....Opon looking at the back in detail I don`t think I can do that again.Wait I know i can do it again! ..so what do i use to block the line once I break them free ...sort of a plug, or bolt ,cap???? I will be breaking them loose from the flex line to the hard line under the trailing arm

Thanks in advance
Mike Crandall

Go to your FLAPS and get a couple of the shortest cheapest brake hard lines they have (that are the right metric single flare). Cut the ends of and flatten the tube portion so to 'nut' won't come off. Use a propane torch to heat them an fill them with solder, or fill them with epoxy. Careful not to bugger up the sealing surface.

Now you've got plugs. That's what I did, seems like a lot of work, but it's really not.

Break the other side and use a bleeder cap on the metal line. You know, the lil rubber ones that go on the bleeders to keep the crud from getting in. Works great.

Both good idea`s ....what size fitting would i need to make the plug Mcmark .

.Thanks

the line goes through a tab on the trailing arm ..so thats were it has to be separated so it will be on the big side of the line that i have to plug .....

Thanks

I know. I just did it. if you take the keeper clip off of the line it slips right off (ya need to take it off anyway). Then just bust the line off of the caliper and plug with the cap.

How do you plan to get the rubber bushings out? If you are just going to drill them or heat them up, you don't need to do any removal of the lines. The arm will drop down just enough to get the old stuff out and new stuff in but it's a PITA if ya don't like crawlin around. If you don't mind, it's not that bad of a job. I did 2 sets in the past 5 months or so. Drilling seemed to be the easiest for me. A few well placed holes and the old stuff comes right out. But, for what it's worth, the unhooking of the other stuff and pulling the whole mess from under the car makes for a much easier job.

Ok i will try it that way ....there is no pressure to speak of in the line .

..I will prolly just pull the trailing arm out from under the car so it will be easer to work on (DRILL AND HEAT )..

.and i want to shot a coat of paint on it as well ...what did you use to get the new bushing in,

new bearing go`n in as well and i wanna grease the CV

.Boy if i had ten hands I`d be a handy basterd

10x1 cap. Bleeder cpas are a good idea, if you have them.

Yep, taking them out saves time in the end. And, the plus side... ya get to clean and paint em up real nice. New ones just slip in but with a little resistance. Just make sure ya don't paint the inside of the arm. For that matter, clean the inside (where the "poly" part will come to rest) to bare metal and fine grit paper works well to make going in nice and easy. They are not all the same size, as one would hope. One may go in smooth and the other may take a couple smacks. Just make sure none are loose in there. When ya get it all in, push the rod through and give the end of the rod a few smacks all the way around to center the bushing. (use something soft like a plastic hammer or hunk o wood so ya don't mess up the threads) This way the rod will spin nice in the bearing. Somewhat "free" in the bearings. Then grease em up til ya see grease coming out. Wipe off the excess and you are ready for install. BTW: if a bearing spins in the arm housing, instructions say to use a "poly" caulk to keep em from spinning. I never had to use it. But I suppose the thing has to be pretty loose to have to use it. Have fun. Like I said, it's not too bad of a job. Just time consuming.

Plugging as others have suggested works good. One thing I do with cars is to block the brake pedal half way down with a piece of wood cut to length prior to breaking into the system. Once the MC applies the brakes, it will not allow fluid from the reservoir to flow; stopping the flow of fluid in the open system. Makes for some really easy bleeding once the system is back together since the only fluid list is typically right down at the wheel.

Nice tip. I didn't know that. Thanx.

I`ll bust`m loose tonite ..and get after the bearings I love new stuff

Late trailing arms have a notch cut into the brake line bracket to facilitate removing the arm without breaking into the hydraulic system. You might want to 'upgrade' your arms.

Or... you could have an orgy.

Great tips on the brake pedal and the plugs. I have the lines just cut and bent over itself and they seal great. The arms with the slots are the way to go.

or i could play pattie cake all alone ....like 5 times

I will bust them loose tonite and tell everyone how it went ..or didnt went ...lol

got the rubber caps
got some old break line
and a BFH if all else fail`s