can any one point out all of the spots that our cars leak oil, maybe a photo with a arrow or something.
and would I have to drop my motor to fix?

1973 1.7 d injection

You can an oil additive that shows up under a black light for tracing oil leaks. I have never used it but I have heard good things from a mechanic friend.

I can only talk about the areas that I addressed. The oil cooler seals (2ea), rocker cover gaskets(which must be positioned correctly) and the push rod tube seals. I think you can do all of these with the engine in place. I did mine with it out and from what I remember, the frustration level might be off the scale if you did the work w/ the engine in.

air cooled Porsches typically leak oil from the engine.

Oil pressure sender switch is a standard failure item.
Any place there's oil on one side _can_ leak oil, including the crankcase seam. The oil drain screen plate is a standard leaker.

So it's kind of an odd question. Typically, you either have an oil leak that you want to pinpoint and eliminate, or you want to pre-emptively replace everything that _can_ leak. If it's the first, give us a clue where you're seeing oil (front, back, left, right...) and we'll be in a better position to guide you to the more likely candidates. If you really want to 'just replace everything that can leak' you're looking at a full rebuild. Really. Few of us would go there on an engine that is otherwise running well.

Pushrod tube seals can be done with the engine in, and rocker cover seals are just standard maintenance items. I have heard of (very determined) people who have replaced oil cooler seals with the engine in and while it's nice to know on some theoretical level that it's possible, I'd never want to try.

If you wanted to replace all the "easy" seals it'd still pay you to pull the engine because the overall time, effort, and frustration level involved is so much less.

So - where's this leak?

I have the same car and have now cured all the oil leaks..

It had, Rocker cover gaskets, Taco plate, Speedo drive.

Now it's stopped bleeding when it's on it's own, the garage floor is clean! wow.

my point is that your request is too general unless your purpose is to stimulate broad input discussions on all types of engine leaks. if so then i will address it at it's most fundamental elements

an engien can leak from anywhere. poor assembly preparation is the cause 99% of the time. contamination or mechanical blems.

for sealants to seal and surfaces to mate correctly:
mating surfaces must be 100% clean of contamination. even a thin film of solvent or residual oil will degrade function of the sealant. slimy finger prints...
mating surfaces often have imperfections, not smooth, not flat, small sctatch. a scratch across an o-ring bore is a channel for a leak.
pinched o-ring, chunked
too much glue.
slight mechanical interferences that do not allow complete mating (as little as 0.001"

application of sealants should be light, just enough to fill in teh voids of the mating surfaces imperfections.
parts should be TEST FITTED FIRST
if the glue starts to dry, it will clump or be too thick after compression (tightening the parts together)
use washers to spread the load of clamping forces
clean your hardware so that it tightens correctly

the sum of the details is what makes an engien great.

post a few belly shots of this greasy pig.
close ups of:
eng to trans joint
head to valve cover
pushrod tubes at both ends
bottom fromt of engine under oil pump

changing oil cooler seals with the engine in the car is either dedication to the pursuit of stupidity or an excersize routine for obsesive cumpulsive stubornness

Oldschool:

I can't speak for other oil leaks...but I was losing a lot of oil from the push rods tubes. The oil was dripping down on the heat exchangers. I pulled the HE off and thoroughly cleaned them. Then degreased the pushrod tube areas and replaced the pushrod tube seals with the engine in the car.

I followed instructions from the Pelican site. It was a filthy job - I just threw my clothes out after finishing & goggles. Overall though, it was not too bad. Just take your time. Attached is a picture of what I saw before starting. No arrows, but you can clearly see oil buildup around the pushrod tubes.

If you find the tube seals to be at fault, spend a few extra bucks on the Viton seals and fix it once. My engine is virtually leak free now.

Click to view attachment

Bob

I agree (except for the spelling, and Sean is on his own there...) for initial or early-stage leaks.

But these are also old cars, with old seals, and hard, brittle elastomers exposed to lots of heat over a long time. (Especially pushrod tube seals, which see cylinder head temps.)

Old seals lose their flexibility due to oxidation and other aging effects and leakage follows. Even "perfect" Porsche-factory assembled engines will eventually leak. In some cases, 'garage-queen' cars that are rarely driven (and therefore exposed to more air and less oil than they were designed to experience) are the worst.

So as is often the case (and Sean's point about the details is spot-on) you won't get good results with cheap parts, cheap sealants, and sloppy technique. There were a lot of really crappy pushrod tube seals out there for a while. Maybe they've all be flushed out of the marketplace by now - I donno - I don't own any pushrod cars*... Once upon a time the 'good' Viton seals were green - or was it black? The point is - don't buy this stuff on price alone unless your objective is to get really good at doing the job a lot of times.

There are plenty of reputable dealers for The Good Stuff. Engine Builders Supply, Pelican, Automotion. I have no doubt Jake uses the very best stuff available and the only reason I didn't put him in the first list is I don't know if he's set up to sell individual small parts. If so, it's where I'd start for replacement seals for a T-IV...

Even good stuff will whither and crack eventually.
_____________________
* this is a small fib for drama. My '53 Normal Coupe has pushrods. Wooden ones. In a box, somewhere, with the rest of the 2-piece engine parts...

true.
the other 1% would be age, heat, sitting.
I thank God that I can seal an engine better than I can spell english. there are less exceptions to proper assembly teqnique that in spelling the english language.
mejor contesto en espanol y ustedes pueden usar google para traducir mis tonterias

por lo tanto, comienza.

here is the skinny, I cleaned all under the car,trans Motor etc... and it was dirty
so after a few days oil on the floor so. I was asking kind of were is the most common place, and thanks for all your help.

Sean you have always been helpful,And I thank you. So where is a good place to but the seals?

If I left out a smiley and it rubbed you the wrong way, I apologize.
T'was not meant to offend.