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jsaum
What is the best glue and proceedure to put the guide rail back on the glass? I tried J B weld (my favorite epoxy) and the drivers window seemed to work great for a few days. I had the window rolled down and shut the door and the window exploded! I now have a replacement and will try again.

Thanks for the help!
Jsaum
70_914
QUOTE(jsaum @ Feb 13 2010, 07:48 PM) *

What is the best glue and proceedure to put the guide rail back on the glass? I tried J B weld (my favorite epoxy) and the drivers window seemed to work great for a few days. I had the window rolled down and shut the door and the window exploded! I now have a replacement and will try again.

Thanks for the help!
Jsaum



We talked about this when you were at my house, but maybe a response will get other people talking and not just looking...

3M Urethane, white tube, sold at body shop supply stores like Wesco.

Just my $.02

Kevin

PS- took the rear bumper and filler panel off my new blue car and there is a Bursch exhaust under there, new enough that the sticker is still on the muffler... drooley.gif
pcar916
3M also makes specific glass-to-channel goop that I bought at a local Napa store for ~ $13.00. It's called:

"Automix" "Channel Bonding Compound and Sidelight Adhesive" #08641

It's a two part thing that uses a specific dispenser to push the pistons out of the applicator and mixes them together before they come out of a special nozzle. I don't need this stuff very often so...

Rather than spend the $50 for the tool, I just modified a standard caulk gun and mixed it myself.

No surprise, the key is preparation of the old rail and glass. I like to get rid of all foreign material and old adhesive with whatever tools make sense, from dental picks and flat things to razor blades on the glass itself. Once everything is as clean as I can make it, it all gets washed down with acetone... the world's best solvent.

I don't remember the curing time/temperature but it's online at the 3M website. It's professional stuff so it won't come with instructions.

Good luck
jsaum
Thanks for the input I'll check out both products and try to post pics of the process.
Jsaum
IronHillRestorations
Ron is spot on. Preparation is key to good adhesion. Thorough cleaning and de-gunking is critical. I clean out the channel, go over it with a scotchbrite pad, and clean it again.
underthetire
I would think any epoxy would be too brittle and not bond well. I used 3M super 90. But doing so I noticed another problem, my windows need to roll up another 1/8" or so on both sides, and stop short. Don't know if there is an adjustment for the stop or something else broke.
markb
I just cheat & go to an automotive glass shop & have them glue it for me. biggrin.gif
detoxcowboy
QUOTE(markb @ Feb 16 2010, 10:33 AM) *

I just cheat & go to an automotive glass shop & have them glue it for me. biggrin.gif



I would just take it in, they will charge you maybe? I was charged $10 for both doors, took 5 minutes, I brought the glass and channel in whihc is so easy for them after that, and I learned something.... there is also another issue of depth, how far into the channel you put the glass and how straight you put the glass in. They used a hand screw press desighn for working with glass.. and same kind/similar material of whatever was in there before like sealing rubber tape.. Whatever glue goop you get it it will not keep it up in the channel while holding vibrating out down whatever.. All saidf and done your goona want a good seal with the targa and roll bar.. Oh and JB Weld is a filler not a real adhesive despite the name..
jeremiah98125
I just had the same thing happen to me, shut the door with the window half way down and the thing exploded.. So where do you find new glass? Can an auto glass shop cut a piece to fit or do I have to look for one off a parts car?
McMark
Check the classifieds. GPR's hwgunner is selling glass CHEAP if it's not already gone.
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