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ldscamaross
hey i was just wondering if you guys have tried to make a front and or rear sway bar for your cars out of homemade/other cars' parts. ive thought about putting them on and dont want to spend hundreds for parts to try and piece them togeather. ive got access to many tools and was thinking of trying to make my own. any ideas or plans or pics.
Cupomeat
This would work, if the donor bars are the correct width and geometry. Getting the right spring steel and bending it to the shape needed would be VERY difficult.

I've never done this, but please let us know what you find that fits!

I highly recommend not welding to (or altering), or piecing any existing anti-roll bar as that would introduce inherent weaknesses that should not be found in any spring. This could be slightly dangerous.

I hope this helps
McMark
Andyrew's Nascar sway bar install.
rick 918-S
Yep, I have a project in the works I call Alien bars. assimilate.gif
4130 light weight tubing.
ldscamaross
thanks for the ideas are there any others. were have you gotten your parts for the project
tdiddy
QUOTE(rick 918-S @ Feb 19 2010, 03:43 PM) *

Yep, I have a project in the works I call Alien bars. assimilate.gif
4130 light weight tubing.


Rick, did you ever get this installed? I'm curious in hearing more about what went into building this!
Joe Ricard
Yup, I bought a NASCAR bar off Ebay. like 25 bucks it was 1 3/16" dia hollow. I cut the ends off a crappy 19mm bar and welded them on the big bar. made some HUGE bushings and put it in the stock location. used the Weltmiester bar ends (arms) and made some spherical rod end links. Of course this was on my race car and all tied to the cage. Very stiff roll resistance.
Borderline
I built my own front sway bar years ago. It's basically a copy of the original design, just a little larger. Found these ooooollld photos. Car was a different color then.
rick 918-S
QUOTE(tdiddy @ May 6 2010, 01:58 PM) *

QUOTE(rick 918-S @ Feb 19 2010, 03:43 PM) *

Yep, I have a project in the works I call Alien bars. assimilate.gif
4130 light weight tubing.


Rick, did you ever get this installed? I'm curious in hearing more about what went into building this!


Nay, No time to finish it yet.
'73-914kid
It's cool you guys have done front sway bars, but has anyone made a rear bar? I'd rather fabricate a bar rather than fork up some big bucks for a real 914 bar...
70_914
QUOTE('73-914kid @ May 6 2010, 08:13 PM) *

It's cool you guys have done front sway bars, but has anyone made a rear bar? I'd rather fabricate a bar rather than fork up some big bucks for a real 914 bar...



My car has a rear bar installed. I can try to get some pictures for you. The front is a standard 911 under mount bar, but the rear is mounted to the floor of the rear trunk, the end links attach to some angle iron at the trailing arm.

tdiddy
I think I'm going to try and undertake a build your own nascar style setup after the summer is over. I think I'll just suffer without a front bar for the summer and then try to fab something up when I have more time. Should make autoxing for the first time interesting without a sway.
PlaysWithCars
Common wisdom is to not use a rear bar w/o a LSD lest you risk the inside wheel spinning on corner exit. Preferred method for the rear is to run stiffer rear springs.

Maybe its my engineering nature not to accept common wisdom at face value, I currently run a stock rear bar but would really be interested in finding or building an adjustable one. The convenience of the tunability for me seems to override the wheel lifting risk. Its all about moderation; don't expect a huge bar w/ stock springs to work well. Use a moderate sized bar for tuning but get the balance of the car basically set by changing springs.
jeffdon
Rather than trying to weld the spring steel, which I have heard can be iffy if your not top notch, could you not just use a straight section of sway bar, and mill the ends square to accept either stock, weltmeister, or homemade bar ends?
Katmanken
The fun comes in with the material.

Most times, a spring means a HARD material with a heat treat temper.

Hard means difficult to machine, succeptability to fractures, and welding can ruin the temper.

Which is why most parts are bent and machined when soft, and then tempered later.
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