I keep reading about the AJ Brake Cooling Kit for our cars but damned if I can find it... Is it still made? Was it for a solid disc or vented?

http://www.ajusa.com/browse/AJ-USA-Brake-C...-Kits/148/PNB/0

This it? Are you having problems with your brakes overheating??

Try Porterfields in Costa Mesa. They are on Placentia between 17th and 19th on the west side. They carry all kinds of brake pads, cooling duct parts, rotors, and much more. They also cross-drill rotors for a reasonable price. They have a web page.

As you can see from the product link, there is a scoop to catch some air, blow it through a tube, and then force it to the center of a vented brake rotor. Not designed for solid rotors unfortunately. Vented rotors are one of the best solutions to brake fade.

On the 2.0 with 4 bolt wheels you are stuck with solid discs unless you spend big bucks. If you are having problems with your brakes, make sure everything is working properly... I had to push with all my power before to get my car to stop and it wouldn't lock up. I flushed the system fitted new calipers, rotors and Porterfield R4's all round and it's badass now, I can lock it up with a quick stab if needs be.

Not having brake problems, but my pedal does get a bit spongy at the end of an aggressive day on the track. Especially with two drivers. Just looking at my options...

Here's a link to installing the typical kit....Pelican has the kit too. All produced ones I know of are for the 911 type of brakes with vented rotors....

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/m...ake_cooling.htm

I'm still solid rotors... Sigh. The Pagid Orange pads and AP Fluid do an admirable job though.

Not sure if these will help with solid rotors but I'm going to use the 993 air deflectors. They zip tie/bolt to your A-arms and direct air to the rotor. I'm using vented rotors but they are cheap enough to try. Part number 993 341 083 00 + 993 341 084 00.

.........The situation you are experiencing is not uncommon reguardless of the brake pad type. You are boiling the brake fluid, and or the type fluid is releasing water from it,s composition/makeup.It,s a good idea to bleed your brakes as soon as possable(after your track events) to remove the moisture. Eventually you may experience less sponginess at the end of your track events as the moisture is being removed....Never- the -less bleeding brakes frequently(after track events) allows you to inspect the pads, and brake system which is always a good idea....Murray Mcafee.

I tend to bleed them quite frequently using the Motiv Power Bleeder. Probably 4 times last year alone. Maybe I need to do it more?

I do still have my backing plates on... Wonder if I should remove those to help with cooling?

ME733 is correct. That said it sounds like you're doing it much more often than most.

From the 911 factory manual on brake overheating in a performance situation (excessive pedal free travel) "+ Use special brake pads for racing, possibly remove disc shrouds" So... yes.

I think the AJ kit would help, even with the solid rotors. You may also want to explore using some of the hubs that Mark was machining for Brad. These would give you vented rotors on 914 spindles. You would then need to use an M-Caliper or a Brembo as seen here:

http://www.pmbperformance.com/catalog/item...552/6862358.htm
(shameless link)