Help - Search - Members - Calendar
Full Version: rear axle- removal
914World.com > The 914 Forums > 914World Garage
eyecolor
I have disconnected the trans side when I dropped the engine. Now I want to take the axle off to inspect the CV joints.
I have removed the 4 bolts from the hub side but the unit is still fighting me to come out. I did see the pins holding the other side in and figured it just took some force.
After running out of force, I checked the Haynes manual and it seems to say I need to take off the large central nut and cotter pin on the other side.
Before I go this route, any advice? Thanks.

George
Wilmington,DE
underthetire
QUOTE(eyecolor @ Feb 21 2010, 12:32 PM) *

I have disconnected the trans side when I dropped the engine. Now I want to take the axle off to inspect the CV joints.
I have removed the 4 bolts from the hub side but the unit is still fighting me to come out. I did see the pins holding the other side in and figured it just took some force.
After running out of force, I checked the Haynes manual and it seems to say I need to take off the large central nut and cotter pin on the other side.
Before I go this route, any advice? Thanks.

George
Wilmington,DE



Yes, cotter pin, and large nut, then the axles pull out. DONT roll the car without the axles in or you will damage the wheel bearings. I would think it's the easiest way to get the outboard CV's apart.
TheCabinetmaker
If ya pull the stub axle out, leave the car on the stands till you reinstall it.

You'll also have to remove the drivers side heat exchanger or the shift rod to get the axle out.
Eric_Shea
It is best to take the stub axle out as they suggest.

Then you'll need to wedge a chisel on the gasket material between the stub axles and the CV. Be careful not to damage the mating surfaces.
Gint
You don't have to pull the stub axle out. You can, but it isn't necessary. It just takes some real cajones to pull the axle and the cv off of the stub.

On the flip side, if you take the stub axle nut off and attempt to take a stub axle out and it doesn't want to come out, and then you end up forcing it out, you'll likely need new wheel bearings by the time your done. It's a slippery slope...
underthetire
QUOTE(Gint @ Feb 21 2010, 01:07 PM) *

You don't have to pull the stub axle out. You can, but it isn't necessary. It just takes some real cajones to pull the axle and the cv off of the stub.

On the flip side, if you take the stub axle nut off and attempt to take a stub axle out and it doesn't want to come out, and then you end up forcing it out, you'll likely need new wheel bearings by the time your done. It's a slippery slope...



And hell, your almost 1/2 way to replacing the bearings now poke.gif
Gint
They're expensive and a lot of work. No sense replacing bearings that don't need to be replaced. They rarely go bad on their own unless they're messed with. smile.gif

I've had pretty good lick lightly tapping on the inner cv towards the transaxle with a ball peen hammer. Don't get crazy. You just need to get that outer cv off of the roll pins. If the bolts are already out, you only need to move it 3/8" or so to get it off of the roll pins. Done.
underthetire
QUOTE(Gint @ Feb 21 2010, 01:15 PM) *

They're expensive and a lot of work. No sense replacing bearings that don't need to be replaced. They rarely go bad on their own unless they're messed with. smile.gif

I've had pretty good lick lightly tapping on the inner cv towards the transaxle with a ball peen hammer. Don't get crazy. You just need to get that outer cv off of the roll pins. If the bolts are already out, you only need to move it 3/8" or so to get it off of the roll pins. Done.



Mine were not messed with, and I didn't even know they were bad. I pulled mine for a 5 lug. That little weird noise was gone after. 40 year old grease tends to go away. And in the grand picture of all the wheelbarrows of money we throw at these little cars, whats a hundred bucks? I'm just sayin if they are 40 years old, why take a chance.
eyecolor
Thanks!!
This forum is amazing.
Next question. If I try and turn the nut, do I clamp the axle from turning or can I run a screwdriver through holes on the outer plate ie does this plate move with the nut?
Yes , I am that new at this

thanks again
underthetire
QUOTE(eyecolor @ Feb 21 2010, 01:32 PM) *

Thanks!!
This forum is amazing.
Next question. If I try and turn the nut, do I clamp the axle from turning or can I run a screwdriver through holes on the outer plate ie does this plate move with the nut?
Yes , I am that new at this

thanks again



Well, yes you can, but a screwdriver will probably break off. I think I used a socket extension myself. You can also get a flat bar, drill a couple holes in it and rest one end on the ground. Whatever you do, be carefull with the brake lines etc in the back. You can pinch them if your not carefull.

My very crude sketch.
eyecolor
I'm pushing the snow out of the way and trying again.

thanks

If I mess up, Eric gets to sell me more stuff!!

thank you all
x98boardwell
I did the exact same thing as you are doing.. mine was also stuck. I used just my e-brake to keep the axle from moving when I removing the nut. Not sure of the condition of your brakes but try that... or have someone push on brake pedal,

Bryan
Eric_Shea
Most will be impossible to remove on the car. It would be a good stroke of luck that is can be pulled off the stub axle with all of the play allowed by the CV.
Cap'n Krusty
QUOTE(vsg914 @ Feb 21 2010, 12:55 PM) *

If ya pull the stub axle out, leave the car on the stands till you reinstall it.

You'll also have to remove the drivers side heat exchanger or the shift rod to get the axle out.


Since he said the engine and tranny are already out, he can probably skip removing the HE and the shift rod (which DO NOT have to come off, BTW, even with the engine and tranny in place).

The Cap'n
detoxcowboy
QUOTE(Gint @ Feb 21 2010, 01:07 PM) *

You don't have to pull the stub axle out. You can, but it isn't necessary. It just takes some real cajones to pull the axle and the cv off of the stub.

On the flip side, if you take the stub axle nut off and attempt to take a stub axle out and it doesn't want to come out, and then you end up forcing it out, you'll likely need new wheel bearings by the time your done. It's a slippery slope...



I agree, we just did a thread on this.. I was able to get mine sperated by yanking a couple times and then quater turn the wheel and yanking a few more times, ect. ect. for about what was 5 minutes of tuggin and rotating they popped right off, was same struggle for both sides but easier and less invasive than trying to take everything apart.. no tools just two hands and arms and patience..
TheCabinetmaker
Well, I obviously had a senior moment about the engine already out. I'll take your word for getting it out with the engine in. I've only done it three times. I'm sure you've done it enough to know a few tricks that I don't mr smartass.!

Opps! Thats Cap'n Smartass.
detoxcowboy
QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Feb 21 2010, 02:54 PM) *

QUOTE(vsg914 @ Feb 21 2010, 12:55 PM) *

If ya pull the stub axle out, leave the car on the stands till you reinstall it.

You'll also have to remove the drivers side heat exchanger or the shift rod to get the axle out.


Since he said the engine and tranny are already out, he can probably skip removing the HE and the shift rod (which DO NOT have to come off, BTW, even with the engine and tranny in place).

The Cap'n



I agree and learn from the Cap'n, do not have to take all that apart either.. Best to leave things alone when you can... just causes a carbunkle sometimes (carbunkle; a hemriod on a hemriod)
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.
Invision Power Board © 2001-2024 Invision Power Services, Inc.