A kind member of this board sent some 250# springs for my pushing Porscheee. Will it be too much? I can't wait to find out. I'd sure LOVE to be able to play with my "adjustable" front sway bar (instead of leaving it on total soft all the time).

I've never done this before. What am I getting into? Do I need any special tools? I've got a six-pack and a friend coming over to help.

It looks like I need to (along with stoopid questions):

Remove the nut at the top of the shock.
Remove the big nut on the outside of the suspension arm (how do I keep the bolt from spinning?)
Slide, or hammer (?) the bolt out from the shock.
Do I need to remove the CV joint?
Drop the shock down and slide the spring up and off (or is there a top retainer?)

Yup. I definitely need some ADVICE! Please stand by this evening, you may need to talk me down.

The sixer will be opened after the tool boxes are closed....

loosen (but, keep it on) the top nut, you might have to use a large pair of pliers (a pipe wrench works)

remove the bolt that holds the shock to the trailing arm...(adjustable wrench for the flats), not sure what size nut, (27mm???)

now remove the top nut, shock assy should fall down.....

i've replaced 140 and 180 springs with no spring compressor other than me holding the spring while the assy is in a vise, stock springs are much, much longer and do require more thought....

Joseph,

I can't remember from when we spoke... Is your car a -4?

Its an easy job really.
and 250 can be a very good weight for a 4 racer depending upon your front rates.

The springs could change your rideheight.. and thus rear camber... so carefully measure your before heights and reset it exactly when you are done... (before the beer)..

if you don't have the adjustable spring collar then do an alignment...

brant

the lower damper bolt has flats on it - you can get a large open-end (or its adjustable counterpart) on it. you shouldn't need to drift, hammer, or pursuade it - relieve preload on the trailing arm and it should slide right out unless it is rusted in place ...

the Haynes procedure is pretty accurate, IIRC. having a sturdy spring comprssor will keep you safe®. the upper mounting nut can be removed (relatively) safely by using a spare roadwheel as an inertial damper - this is a good thing for Friend to hold. -probably- your new springs are significantly shorter and will not require compression for re-installation.

you need do nothing to the CV's, but having something to set under the trailing arm (or a strap) to limit travel might be nicer on the CV's. i don't think it's necessary tho.

use caution as you approach the first turn - as i just saw on a BBS today - "if we keep on spinning, we're bound to hit an apex sooner or later ..."

By relieving pre-load, do you mean placing a jack under the arm (with the car on stands), so the bolt does not want to bind?

My shop replaced 180s with 200s about a month ago, so nothing should be rusted tight - although, it is a 914....

I just don't want to pay the shop to do something over again that I may be able to do myself... well, as long as you guys are watching over my shoulder.

Brant, koni adjustables all around & 22mm weltmeister swaybar up front.

I'm printing out this entire post - many thanks to all for everyone of the good tips.

I will report back

"if we keep on spinning, we're bound to hit an apex sooner or later ..."

What is the inside diameter of the spring ??


B

I think that you must have the threaded collars.. (this is probably what brad is getting at)...

but I'm referring to the infinitely adjustable threaded collars, versus the fixed or 3way collars..
(not the adjustable koni's)

brant

The inside diameter is 2.5".
10" long.

These "new" to me 250# are identical other than the coil wire is about 1-2mm thicker.

loosen the top nut, go ahead and remove the bottom nut. put the floor jack under the trailing arm, and push up a bit. remove top nut. release floor jack slowly and the shock assem will come down. pull the bolt. before you start, if you still can, mark the floor where the car currently sits(tape, chaulk) and measure your ride heigth. much better for setting things up when you put it back together.

kevin

I can't add anything to what has already been said.

Except:



There's a problem there...

Hey, I got the springs swapped out!

Everything that you guys mentioned became evident and made sense as the process went along. Mueller, I appreciate your tip on loosening but not removing the top nut since I was the one laying underneath the shock. I removed the rear swaybar also. Tired of hearing it klunk occasionally in turns.

Thanks for the tips.

I did some off-ramps and hit a few deserted parking lots this afternoon. The car is definitely rotating much better, both off throttle and on throttle. No push really evident. I think this is going to be real nice.

Tomorrow is our first official AX of the season. We will see.

Flip the sway bar over and mount it in the trunk. Run the drop links through the trunk floor and down to the stock shock bolts. You really need a rear bar to fine tune the suspension and to balance out the car.


B